Creating A Sluggo Type Mold

[Pencils-n-flies]

I would like to make my own soft plastic baits this winter. I'm a saltwater angler and trying to make a 9 inch Sluggo type mold.

Have two questions:

1) What materials do I need to make a mold? Any basic pointers in crafting the mold?

2) Once the mold is build what type of liquid plastic and coloring products do you recommend?

Thanks,

PnF

[gone2long]

Check out lurecraft they have a few sluggo molds and priced right and of course they have everything you need to get started. This would be the easiest way to get started then you can proceed from there as you become more experienced.

[FuzzyGrub]

Check out lurecraft they have a few sluggo molds and priced right and of course they have everything you need to get started. This would be the easiest way to get started then you can proceed from there as you become more experienced.

I am not sure if Lurecraft has sluggo type molds with a bait of 9". If not, and don't have another source, consider making a fiberglass resin mold of the existing 9" sluggo baits you have. As a newbie, I made a resin sluggo mold for 4" and 6". See lower left of pic below. It was one of my better 1st attempts, and required only minor touch-up with the dremel tool. I found allot of good advice on making the resin mold on this site.

[Pencils-n-flies]

Fuzzy-

If possible can you please share the type/brand of fiberglass resin you use? And how long do you let the fiberglass resin mold cure?

Do you happen to know if Clear Casting Resin will work to create a mold?

Thanks

P-n-F

I am not sure if Lurecraft has sluggo type molds with a bait of 9". If not, and don't have another source, consider making a fiberglass resin mold of the existing 9" sluggo baits you have. As a newbie, I made a resin sluggo mold for 4" and 6". See lower left of pic below. It was one of my better 1st attempts, and required only minor touch-up with the dremel tool. I found allot of good advice on making the resin mold on this site.

[Jig Man]

I make my resin molds from Bondo that I get at the auto parts store. I glue baits down in nonstick pans. Then I spray them with cooking oil and pour the resin over them. I go away for 24 hours to let it cure thoroughly, come back take the mold out, take the baits out, smooth edges with the Dremel and pour some baits.

The only draw back is one side is flat but the fish don't seem to mind at all.

[FuzzyGrub]

Fuzzy-

If possible can you please share the type/brand of fiberglass resin you use? And how long do you let the fiberglass resin mold cure?

Do you happen to know if Clear Casting Resin will work to create a mold?

Thanks

P-n-F

I just used what was at my local auto parts store, 3M Bondo brand. I let them cure over night. I think you could demold after a few hours, or once they have cooled down from the reaction. I am not familiar with "Clear Casting Resin", but bet someone on this site is.

A couple of hints from a newbie:

- Clean the baits well in detergent and dry well.

- Find the right size container to fit your baits and clean the bottom well.

- Test how many onces of water to fill the mold to the right level. Use, 1-2 ozs more than you measured on your 1st pour. Thicker is better than too thin. Dry out mold.

- Super glue or double side tape to hold the baits in place. Make sure they are secure. The heat from the reaction softens the baits and they will tend to lift. A lifted bait is a wasted cavity, Double sided 3M tape seems to hold better for me, but does leave more residue for clean-up after.

- Make sure your cooling table is level.

- Add the right amount of hardner, and mix well. The mold on the upper right was my very 1st attempt, and did not have enough hardner.

- Pour slowly into corner of mold.

- Let cure overnight.

- Demold, it may take a little effort, especially if you used double sided tape. Baits are wasted. They will be gooey from the heat reaction.

- Touch up edges with dremel tool, clean mold, and I add some worm oil to cavity.

- Do a couple of test pours. You might get a little smoke on these tests.

[Travis]

This is one bait where I think plaster of paris makes the most sense. We aren't having to mold any complicated appendages or undercuts (not that POP can't be used in these cases) so wear/force is minimal on the mold. Easy pour and peel out lure. For a few dollars you can make a lot of molds and be able to pour numbers because it is dirt cheap medium.

10 Inch Jerk Bait

Edited December 21, 2010 by Travis

[Pencils-n-flies]

Travis-

Thanks for this info. Can you please help me with the following.

Your POP mold- you place the top of the bait against a flat surface like a aluminum cake pan, glue the top of the bait to the bottom of the pan, and then pour the POP around the bait?

Also- how did you geat that great two-tone color? Is it as simple as pouring on color at the base and then another color on top of the base?

Lastly- what brand of plastic do you use?

Thanks

PnF

This is one bait where I think plaster of paris makes the most sense. We aren't having to mold any complicated appendages or undercuts (not that POP can't be used in these cases) so wear/force is minimal on the mold. Easy pour and peel out lure. For a few dollars you can make a lot of molds and be able to pour numbers because it is dirt cheap medium.

10 Inch Jerk Bait

[Vodkaman]

I agree with travis, PoP is as good a way to make your mold.

Polythene containers are the best mold boxes. They have flex and nothing sticks to them.

The method is exactly the same as for polyester resin, except for a couple of extra steps.

First, the mold needs to be fully dried. This will take a week in air, but you can dry it in a couple of hours in an oven on its lowest setting. Wedge the oven door open an inch. Weigh the mold on kitchen scales. When the mold stops losing weight, it is done. Heating too long and too hot will damage the mold structure and it will become powdery and useless.

Second, the mold needs to be sealed. Several coats of elmers glue/water mixed 50/50. Do a search on elmers, loads written about this. An alternative method is thinned epoxy to seal the mold. If you do not seal the mold, the finished lure will be dull and full of bubbles.

Dave

[Travis]

Travis-

Thanks for this info. Can you please help me with the following.

Your POP mold- you place the top of the bait against a flat surface like a aluminum cake pan, glue the top of the bait to the bottom of the pan, and then pour the POP around the bait?

Also- how did you geat that great two-tone color? Is it as simple as pouring on color at the base and then another color on top of the base?

Lastly- what brand of plastic do you use?

Thanks

PnF

The process is virtually universal. As long as you get a good adhesion of your bait to the bottom of the designated molding box you will be good to go. Glue, double sided sticky tape, etc.. can be used. I typically use vasoline and just ligthly rub it against the lure surface and then stick it down in place. I like to use molding containers that have a flat and featureless bottom that have a certain degree of flex for easier popping of the mold out. You can construct mold boxes also out of various materials that easily diassemble instead of having to knock a mold out of a container.

For laminates you just need to have hot plastic. Pour you first layer then followed by the next. You can layer as many colors as you can do. The trick is to have temps correct and be careful not to allow thick "skins" to form before pouring the next level. With the size sluggo you are using it becomes even easier do to the bulk of plastic. When done correctly you get a completely smooth adhesion line between colors. Improper technique and you get cold cracks in some areas. It is easy to do with the large lures so no worries.

Plastic comes down to personal preference and the style of fishing you are doing. I typically pour Calhoun's but any will suffice. Medium to hard plastics usually will work better for larger sluggos since they are more of pure jerk bait that trigger fish do to the erratic action. Softer plastics give more action but rip easier.

[Pencils-n-flies]

Travis-

Thanks for this great feedback.

I've read some mixed reports on how to seal the mold once the POP has dried. Some say- Devcon 2 Ton epoxy, some say Mod Podge, Elmers/water 50/50 mix, etc.

Any suggestion on how you seal the mold?

And whatever you use as a sealer- do you simply brush on a light coat?

Thanks

pnf

The process is virtually universal. As long as you get a good adhesion of your bait to the bottom of the designated molding box you will be good to go. Glue, double sided sticky tape, etc.. can be used. I typically use vasoline and just ligthly rub it against the lure surface and then stick it down in place. I like to use molding containers that have a flat and featureless bottom that have a certain degree of flex for easier popping of the mold out. You can construct mold boxes also out of various materials that easily diassemble instead of having to knock a mold out of a container.

For laminates you just need to have hot plastic. Pour you first layer then followed by the next. You can layer as many colors as you can do. The trick is to have temps correct and be careful not to allow thick "skins" to form before pouring the next level. With the size sluggo you are using it becomes even easier do to the bulk of plastic. When done correctly you get a completely smooth adhesion line between colors. Improper technique and you get cold cracks in some areas. It is easy to do with the large lures so no worries.

Plastic comes down to personal preference and the style of fishing you are doing. I typically pour Calhoun's but any will suffice. Medium to hard plastics usually will work better for larger sluggos since they are more of pure jerk bait that trigger fish do to the erratic action. Softer plastics give more action but rip easier.

[gone2long]

FYI If your in a pinch lurecraft has a 10 inch version #5x381 2 cavity @13.75

Edited December 23, 2010 by mrbilky

[Travis]

Travis-

Thanks for this great feedback.

I've read some mixed reports on how to seal the mold once the POP has dried. Some say- Devcon 2 Ton epoxy, some say Mod Podge, Elmers/water 50/50 mix, etc.

Any suggestion on how you seal the mold?

And whatever you use as a sealer- do you simply brush on a light coat?

Thanks

pnf

I used Mod Podge once and well that was enough. As you listed guys use all sorts of different things to seal. I still use Devcon thinned with acetone (water consistency) and do multiple coats. First few coats easily sink into the mold I keep doing it until I get a nice glossy finish on the mold. It doesn't take too long. You know you are getting there when you brush it on it runs to the bottom of the cavity. Just brush it out when it starts to do this. I loose very little detail in this method. I think it takes me about 10 minutes at the most to seal a mold this way since the acetone flashes off quickly.

[FuzzyGrub]

FYI If your in a pinch lurecraft has a 10 inch version #5x381 2 cavity @13.75

Interesting. LC don't have it listed with the other "fluke/sluggo" type baits??? It's under worms or just search on that part number.

[Pencils-n-flies]

Thank you both. I just looked on LC and typed in "slug" under the search and did find the 10' slug mold. I might go this route, I'm going to take all your advice and try to make a mold from POP, especially since I just returned from Hobby Lobby & Lowes with all the materials!

And i ordered Calhoun Hard plastic earlier from Bear.. What a great guy by the way..he gave me some great pointers as well. I should be ready to go in a few days.

Thanks again for your help.

PnF

Interesting. LC don't have it listed with the other "fluke/sluggo" type baits??? It's under worms or just search on that part number.

[gone2long]

Interesting. LC don't have it listed with the other "fluke/sluggo" type baits??? It's under worms or just search on that part number.

Hey Fuzzy yeah they seem to like misspelling the names of baits for what appears to be avoiding conflict with the manufacturer's of said baits.

[smallmouthaholic]

Hey Fuzzy yeah they seem to like misspelling the names of baits for what appears to be avoiding conflict with the manufacturer's of said baits.

http://www.google.com/patents/about?id=1IEdAAAAEBAJ&dq=herb+reed