Acuna Posted March 1, 2015 Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 I am using a Lee 10 pound bottom pour melting pot and I cannot for the life of me keep the spout from clogging. I play with the temperature. I flux. I try to reload the mold and get the next pour going as quickly as possible. I use a screwdriver to rotate the plunger. Despite all this, the flow of lead from the spout invariably will come to a trickle and then a complete blockage quickly, and then I need to run a piece of wire up the spout to keep pouring (super safe, I know...). Any tips to keep this from happening? I LOVE the idea of having the spout so I can just put the mold up and go, but the practical reality is that I spend a fair amount of time during my pouring sessions getting my mold unclogged. I am thinking about just going to a regular pot and ladle, but I can see that being messy when I pour. Any tips? Part of my frustration is I have been making some jigs for me and my friends using a Collins mold and I put a picture of one of my jigs up on a local fishing board and my Facebook page to see if anyone else wanted some because I planned on making another run. I went back to work and when I checked my Facebook page and the website I had orders for almost 200 jigs. I normally make around 30-50 at a time and it will take me forever to make all the jigs if half my time when pouring is devoted to keeping the pot going... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted March 1, 2015 Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 Please don't get mad at me when I ask you this, but where did you get the lead? The problem you are describing sounds very much like contaminated lead, it sounds as if there is zinc content which makes the lead almost a gummy consistency. If these are wheel weights then you may have possibly ruined your pot, the only way to find out is to empty it, clean it out and then fill it half way with clean lead and see how it performs, but that is if your lead is bad. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted March 1, 2015 Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 (edited) If you know for sure that you are doing everything correctly, hot mold and hot lead then you can try the following: #1 Take all the lead out and clean the pot , take the plunger out clean that as well and finally take a look at the spout hole to make sure that there is nothing there that keeps blocking the lead flow. #2 Put in new and fresh lead. I would start with pure soft, only reason is , if you can't get good pours with this, then your pot is not heating correctly. #3 If after this you are: A. Getting getting good pours, then your pot is working properly and you may have an issue with the old lead. B. Still getting bad pours after cleaning pot and putting in soft lead, then send your pot back to Lee, may have an element that is not performing properly. Send it back to Lee to get it repaired. Cost is minimal and may be under warranty. All said and done there are a lot of variables to possibly solve this problem. Don't take this in the wrong context, as I am not trying to question your skills: How long have you been pouring jigs? Is the pot new, or did you buy it used? The Collins mold, have you poured this before? Did you get good pours? Does the Collins mold have air vents to release trapped air. Are you heating the hooks? Is the pot hot enough? You should have a thermometer or a laser temp gauge to take lead temp. This will save many headaches of having a bad to slow thermostat that can't heat the pot. What kind of lead do you use. Hard lead will harden faster and takes more heat to keep it fluid in a pot. These are just some questions you should ask yourself. You may have already thought of all of these questions, just trying to narrow this down for you. Others may have more input. Let us know what the final result is. Edited March 1, 2015 by cadman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted March 1, 2015 Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 Good advice from smalljaw and Cadman- You must check the temperature of the lead -a digital pyrometer w/ an immersion probe is recommended. An IR thermometer will not work properly. 10 years ago,I drilled my spout out one size larger then stock.When you spout clogs try this- Bend a piece of.040 spinner bait wire into a 90 degree leg. Make the leg going into the pot approximately 2" in length.Have the pot and lead @ full operating temperature-750-850 degrees. With a gloved hand , lock a small set of needle nose vice grips onto the wire after the 90 degree leg. Position the wire against the bottom of the spout. As you open the plunger completely, perform a colonoscopy inserting the wire as far as it will go. Hot lead will be coming out close to your heat resistant ,gloved hand as you perform several in and out motions w/ the wire. This should clean out your clog unless your lead is contaminated. Free lead is usually junk,loaded w/ impurities.You get what you pay for Been there ,done that 25+ years ago.Purchase pure,soft lead. The bars will have a dull appearance(not shiny) and also have a blueish cast to it. I hope this helps- good luck 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jig Man Posted March 1, 2015 Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 You've been given some real good advice from 3 guys who know what they are doing. My pot gets rusty between uses in the unheated garage unless I keep it at least 2/3 full of lead. When that happens I get your symptoms even with good lead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted March 1, 2015 Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 You must check the temperature of the lead -a digital pyrometer w/ an immersion probe is recommended. An IR thermometer will not work properly. A couple questions. So you cannot use an industrial thermometer, like from a laboratory? Also when you say no IR thermometer will work properly, why is that? I'm trying to learn here so pardon my ignorance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted March 1, 2015 Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 A couple questions. So you cannot use an industrial thermometer, like from a laboratory? Also when you say no IR thermometer will work properly, why is that? I'm trying to learn here so pardon my ignorance. No need to pardon your ignorance as we all learn from asking questions.It has been my experience an IR gun won't read properly through the reflection of the molten lead. I have been using a digital pyrometer( w/ immersion probe) for 28 years(1987) -since @ that time it was the most accurate molten lead measuring device available. It still is in operation today and the probe is basically indestructible. I'm sure there have been improvements over the years for less expensive ,molten lead temperature,measuring equipment. Pouring lead jigs,buzz and spinner baits can be one frustrating experience for the novice and experienced too..I ponied-up for expensive ,clean lead- w/ and w/o antimony after suffering through dirty.contaminated lead for 2-4 years. I have custom CNC molds that pour @725,some @ 825-850 and one P.I.A. spinner bait mold that requires 925+ degrees.A dependable & accurate molten lead, temperature measuring device is mandatory for my success. Note to smalljaw- Dan- you mentioned before that you were unsuccessful @ smoking your molds w/ a candle flame. Use a beeswax candle and you'll be impressed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acuna Posted March 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 First, no offense at all to your questions! I have no ego when it comes to making baits, and we are all here to learn and make each other better. Right? I got the lead off eBay. It was advertised as "pure" lead. I sure did have to clean a bunch of crud off though when I fluxed. Looking at the ingots after I emptied the pot and they sure don't have a dull look to them at all. I don't know if that is from contamination or me cranking the heat up to "keep the lead from cooling in the spout". I have been pouring for about a year. Certainly not an expert. I will order some lead from Roto metals and see if that makes it better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acuna Posted March 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 Also, thank you for the tips and advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted March 1, 2015 Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 (edited) . " Looking at the ingots after I emptied the pot and they sure don't have a dull look to them at all. " Lead ingots will look shiny immediately after pouring. That said ,some oxidize faster but soft lead will eventually turn dull w/ a blueish cast. Here's contact info for good,soft lead- kensfagin@hotmail.com His soft lead was better then any I've purchased in the past pouring intricate,small barbs and complete,difficult jigs.That said, soft lead is good for jigs but not for buzz-baits and spinner-baits. For the aforementioned you need antimony in your lead for strength Edited March 1, 2015 by smallmouthaholic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EironBreaker Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 I gave up using a Lee bottom pour pot for the same reasons, just a PITA. I started out using a small Hilts pot that pours over the top and that's all I use to this day. Sure I have to load lead in it more often but it is so much easier to keep clean and working right. Can't pour spinnerbaits/buzzbaits easily with a bottom pour either, at least I can't. So I just use my little pot and keep trucking. Once you have a good system, it is just as fast as a bottom pour and you don't need to fight with it. I can load, pour, cut the sprue and powder coat a jig in 30-45 seconds. A hot pot will work just the same unless you are pouring giant lures. I have a Collins jig mold also. He designed the mold to pour with a bottom pour pot but it pours just fine with a top pour also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robalo01 Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 I have been pouring lead for about 20 years. Here are the factors I have found to most affect success: 1. Temperature. I would say 75% of the problems I have had were solved by simply increasing the temp of the lead and/or the mold. 2. Lead composition. Pure lead is more likely to pour well than wheel weights, but I have been successful pouring wheel weight for just about every application at one time or another. 3. Flow. some molds just require a ladle. (Slip jig is a good example). If the bottom pour doesn't work, try a spoon before giving up. 4. Mold design. I make some of my molds and have been able to pour 1/2 pieces through a 1/8" gate, but the flow inside the cavity has to be such that it fills quickly and isn't forced to make turns. 5. Atmospheric conditions. I can't really explain it, but some days it is just harder to pour that others. If you have tried EVERYTHING. Try again another day when the weather has changed. Hope this helps. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edgecrusher Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 To get you through your order, if you don't have time to solve your issue, use a ladle get the order done and then sort the issue, I find ladling is quicker when its all going to hell with the spout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txmedic033 Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 I bought the RCBS pot over a year ago and it has not given me a single issue. Money well spent if you use your furnace on a regular basis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slammingjack Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 I have been down this road. Sent mine back, they repaired and replaced the spout and did other updates to it. Works real good now. I Flux before I start pouring and if it starts to drip I stop and flux again and then I flux if I add lead and when I done pouring. Clean out all the dross I can. BTW the turn around time was a week. Not bad at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odinohi Posted March 6, 2015 Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 I bought the RCBS pot over a year ago and it has not given me a single issue. Money well spent if you use your furnace on a regular basis. Only hurts your wallet once. I have 3 promelts and a boatload of saecos and Lyman's. Promelt is all I use now I bought the RCBS pot over a year ago and it has not given me a single issue. Money well spent if you use your furnace on a regular basis. Only hurts your wallet once. I have 3 promelts and a boatload of saecos and Lyman's. Promelt is all I use now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acuna Posted March 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 Sorry I have been MIA on this thread I started, I have been SWAMPED at work. I did totally empty out the pot the other day, clean it really well, put in some lead, fluxed the #()U@%() out of it, and was able to pour 50 3/8 oz. heads just fine without any real issues once I got the pot going in the beginning. It is not great but better. THANK YOU ALL for the tips and guidance. It is very helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acuna Posted March 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 (edited) Okay, I take back everything good I may have said about my Lee Pot. Holy freaking cow what a cluster #(*@&*&$(*@& today. So I get up with plans to mold 50 1/2 oz. jigheads. Fire up the pot and get ready for a pouring session that is like the one I had the other day. Lead melts, looks good, flux it, and then try to pour. Nothing really coming out of the spout so I take some wire for the "colonoscopy" clearing method. That never really gets it going well either. I get maybe five heads done and about five that don't pour all the way and yes I heated up the mold. Well, to make a long story short, I could never get the pot working. I got all the lead out of it and let it cool down. I then went and got a dremel with a wire brush and got to cleaning the plunger (removed it so I could really get it clean) and got the rest of the pot too. Got all the dross or whatever that crap is that shows up every time your pour out of the pot and off the plunger. Got into the bottom party where the plunger sets. Got it really , really clean. Way more clean than normal (I was pizzed). I then got some of this "really good" pure lead from a more experienced pourer who gave it to me a gift after I made some shakeyheads for him when he was in a bind awhile back...... Well it still didn't work. In fact, now it wouldn't even come out the bottom at all unless I got a 3/0 hook and rammed it up the sprue hole. Once I got most of the lead out, I took the plunger out and it still wouldn't come out of the bottom (I was just trying to get the lead into my ingot mold for future use. I really am at a loss.... The thing that is frustrating is that even if I send it to Lee for repair, I bet I spend at least $10 on shipping and who knows whatever else if it is out of warranty. A brand new pot is only $40. That said, I am thinking maybe just a regular pot with a ladle might be the way to go. I LOVE the idea of a bottom pour pot, but if the lead gets cold and blocks that dang sprue hole it is not much good to me. I bet I spent four hours today trying to get that pot clean and working and it just wasn't happening. Ugh. Edited March 7, 2015 by Acuna Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSC Posted March 8, 2015 Report Share Posted March 8, 2015 Sounds like your pot is not getting hot enough ... bad thermostat ?? Would send it back to Lee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slammingjack Posted March 8, 2015 Report Share Posted March 8, 2015 For real if your pot is less then two years old , it is still under warranty. Send it back. They will fix it free. Empty it and send it to them with a note on what's wrong with it. Just be careful if they upgrade the heater. Run it somewhere from 4 to 5 on the dial. New ones get a lot hotter then the old ones. If it's under warranty make them fix it. That's my If you can get a new 10 lb. bottom pour Lee pot for $40 tell me where please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basseducer Posted March 8, 2015 Report Share Posted March 8, 2015 Even if it out of warranty, you can send it back with a check for one half of the purchase price and they will completely refurbish it and issue a new 2 year warranty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 You've been given some real good advice from 3 guys who know what they are doing. My pot gets rusty between uses in the unheated garage unless I keep it at least 2/3 full of lead. When that happens I get your symptoms even with good lead. Isn't there something you can spray your empty pot with to keep it from rusting when it's sitting for a while? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Isn't there something you can spray your empty pot with to keep it from rusting when it's sitting for a while? I tried WD-40, and it eventually evaporates. I also used to coat the top and the insides with oil. That worked better. The only drawback, is you have to watch what you put in the pot. As it warms up it can do two things. Smoke like crazy with the oil in there as the oil burns up or flair up and start a fire, like fluxing does. Anyway you should always be at your station when the pot is warming up just in case you need to pull the plug. I found the best way to eliminate a rusted bowl is to keep a full pot inside. About 1/2" from the top. Everyone has their own ways of dealing with this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acuna Posted September 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 Well, I had been keeping the pot full of lead as recommended and it worked okay until this past Friday. Basically, the bottom heated up and the top didn't. The pot started leaking out of the bottom and because the top was not melted I could not move the plunger to stop it. Made a big mess after overflowing my ingot mold and was very dangerous. Good thing I had stuff in place in case this sort of thing happened, but still.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatman Posted September 7, 2015 Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 I've done the 1/2 price replacement program from LEE and they didn't fix them they sent me 2 brand new pots!! and it only took about a week. I'm the weird one who always cleans out my pot after every use, I've been doing it for 31 years and it's what I prefer. One thing I've found and I haven't seen anyone say anything about it, is the pour rod inside the LEE pot. I have an old beat up pocket knife and I scraped the rod like I was whittling on a stick. You wouldn't believe how much crap came off the bottom of it and it looked clean. I also do the wire up the spout but I use an old bass jig with the barb cut off and bent into an L shape. There are still old wheel weights out there - I've sat by my mechanics wheel machine and gone through buckets of wheel weights and sorted them. Don't bother anymore as I've gotten through all of them, but got lucky last year when my water tank sprang a big leak. I know the guys from the plumbers shop and when they showed up I was just finishing up pouring. They asked if I'd trade them some jigs - they wanted 1/8th and 1/4th ballheads. Had them bagged up in the house and for 250 of each size I got 500+ lbs. of old pure lead water pipe they had torn out of an old camp!!!!!! Took me over a month to get it all cleaned up and fluxed out. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
