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Building these baits or any other types of baits or jigs you really dont have too be a rocket scientists to do this just use common sense it's easy.

Why would you want to open & close the eye of a hook that been tempered I pour & build 100s of these types of baits every month with the traditional mustad 4/0 & 5/0 spinnerbait hook and there very sharp & use the open eyelet ive never had to replace a bait because of failure or a blade or skirt coming off. All the picture I've posted with the hardware its easy to make them yourself. I have custom molds yes there different but the head of the bait is still the same. The sparkie head mold is one of the easiest to use with very few modifications to the mold to use. Poison tail jig mold why because there eye sockets to put eyes in. The fish dont care about the eyes or the hook shape.

Hey, 21xdc and bassjiggin1955; I'm wondering about the hooks that you are displaying in previous thread pictures. I've used the Do-It inserts and then had issued closing the eyes after I put the blade on. Also 21xdc, how do you close the eyes of the Mustad hooks? Since they are already tempered what works for you ??

Sounds like me whenever I talked to one of my ex-wives. Hahaha

Great post

I plan to reply. As soon as I can figure out how to explain what I'm trying to do. Sometimes the ideas in the head don't always come out the way we visualize them.

Knots are much heavier than clear wood.

Thanks

Thank you. I will do some research on that, but what you say makes sense. I didnt mention, my blanks are as much as nearly a gram different in weight. I will play with a couple but since i am going for a consistent batch and wanting to play more with lip placement/angle variables, I may put them off to the side for now and get something more consistant.

As the old dawgs pass on, good to know the history of classics like the Silver Buddy, Doll Fly, Rock-a-Roo, among others relevant in my area. Roots ! http://nationalbass.com/news/silver-buddy-success#:~:text=Besides a few size additions,lure and the legend began.

No, particle size does not matter. Dyes are soluble in plastisol where as pigments are not. If you think of it this way: -Pigments are like adding sand to water. Wont dissolve, wont move, the same as when you add it. -Dyes are like adding sugar to water. Will dissolve, will migrate to reach equilibrium. I know that is an oversimplification but it helps to conceptualize the difference between the two. Hope that helps.

Not a wood expert, but believe the light stuff is sap wood and the dark stuff is heartwood. If it was me would only use the heartwood. Arne.

That is my understanding, Dyes are much smaller and able to migrate between substrates.

I have some wood that is confounding me. It Cedar. My neighbor that has a woodmill gave me a plank. It has wierd divisional coloring to me. Whats more i did some calculations on a couple of squares. The density is not making sense to me on top of the different colorations. The density of these two squares is wierd. They are .45 and .48 and .46. Cedar is expected to be .375. The piece i had befor from menard was .4. Much closer to standard expectation. I made about 20 blanks. If anyone has any thoughts i would love to hear them. I am attaching pictures of the wood and calculations. Second picture is of the original cedar calculation for the cedar i got from menards

I catch many on the front hook. I wouldn't want to only use the rear hook. I'm not sure what background Paul had.

The VMC double looks like a classic heavy wire chisel point. I've got some similar classic Mustad 7825 #4 doubles that should be compatible with a 1/4 oz size blade? Is the front hook necessary? Did Mr. Banks design the Silver Buddy for smallies or wallys? Did he have a scientific or engineering background? Based on appearance I would never guess it would vibrate. Absolute Genius!

Many years ago someone here posted that the difference between colorants and dyes is the size of the pigment particles. Is that true?

Perfecoat .... But my distributor is not selling it any longer.

Yeah, McLovin175 up above works there and probably replied to your email as well LOL. Make sure to reply to the email, he's a pretty smart guy with this stuff.

The response from Lureworks. Yes, any of our colorants labeled as “dye” will bleed or migrate through out a soft bait regardless of any other additives. Depending on your laminate combination it may or may not be that noticeable. But the tint side will loose some strength over time as the dye migrates to the other side trying to reach even disbursement in the entire bait. Meanwhile the other side will take in the dye until there is equilibrium in the concentration of the dye in the bait. Unfortunately there is no way around this. If you let me know what your trying to achieve by adding the dye I might be able to give an alternate recommendation.

I prefer the 9908BN VMC Limerick hooks on front and back. Using bigger hooks, Rob vibration/action. Both sets pointing up. Works great.

Eventually I'll mod the mold to fit the available blanks. The snap jiggers do occasionally foul the double trebles on each other or the line, so good advice on the lift slow drop to avoid that. I never use treble hooks, would a single double hook on the tail be sufficient?

What brand do you use?

I went from KBS to a 2 part high solid automotive clear. I brush it on, turn it on my rotisserie. I don't need to wait 2-3 weeks for it to fully cure like that KBS Diamond Clear.

IMO, amoisture cred urethane is best. Dip it, hang it, done. The most popular is KBB Diamond coat, an automotive brand.