Tallywhacker

Like this one a lot - nice design, color, and tail. How big is the body? How did you weight it (I'm assuming you weighted it since it sinks)? How did you seal the hole through the body? I can imagine various sizes for bass or pike.

Koop

@ Koop

Thanks a lot for your kind words and interest , ........the lathe-turned body is 60 mm in length(about 2 1/2") ,..... actually such lures are supposed to remain afloat , I just did not estimate the wood material to be buoyant enough to carry all of the hardware(thought I also assembled hollow bearing metal beads), no extra weighting desired at all !

The 3mm bore lengthwise through the body is drilled from either side to meet in center(takes good eyeballing) , this way the exits(or entries , if you will) on either side come out accurately centered , ....the bore is lined with brass tubing 3mm X 2mm(3mm outer dia. , 2mm bore) , that is epoxied into the bore , .....I utilize this assembly on ALL of my lures with rotating body portions .

This tubing I buy at RC model shops ,..... I file some small notches all around it's length and circumferrence for the epoxy glue to hold up better , also extend the bore's entries in the wood blank a bit "funnel"-like with a conical "Dremel" router bit , so that a kinda "glue plug" would evolve there surrounding the tubing to seal off perfectly .

Seems , that this is about the smallest size you can go for to retain sufficient buoyancy(which I failed to do) , unless you use a material still more buoyant than mine , ....maybe balsa or PVC decking ?

The homemade blade of 0,5mm stainless steel sheet is still smaller and lighter than the ones , that you can get from lure component stores , f. e. http://www.mooreslures.com , ........I still don't recommend using lighter sheet material like aluminium to make such "Tallywhacker" blades , these light ones would just do not "shoulder" as well into the water , thus generate a little less pronounced sound .

good luck , .....greetz , diemai