Leaderboard

What are you pouring your lead with? Bottom pour? If so, you might try ladle pouring with a fast pour. Almost like a dump. Sometimes that can help on hard to pour molds and cavities.

The main problem is the cool hardware blocking and solidifying the lead too quickly. Lay hook and figure 8 link in mold. Heat hook, figure 8 link and collar area with a propane torch. (quick blast) Close mold, pour jig. Your percentages are going to be a lot higher after heating your hardware. Give it a try. Good luck.

I meant 5/16" deep.

I cut my lip slot on my bandsaw, while my blank is still rectangular, so it's square to the blank I mark a centerline on my lip and on my finished blank, so I can line them up when I glue them together.

I use just a standard bobbin. There is nothing special about it. I have more than one. I bought them at a local fly shop. I would be hard pressed to get by without one.

I'll have to experiment with that. I have a pint of baitplastics softener and worm oil but switched to dead on black label. I'll see if using baitplastics causes any issues. It'll be nice to save a few bucks without needing to buy dead on worm oil/softener.

I'm close to that same ratio. I'll use that amount to drop my MF medium to soft. If I'm adding salt or glass beading or even floating additive, I adjust from there. I'll even add softener to the soft blends when using additives. As far as using the same brand softener in like brand plastic, I wouldn't worry too much. I've been mixing and matching for years without issue. I don't want to keep buying more softener every time a manufacturer changes formula for their plastisol, and I change brands. I just use what I have whatever I have on hand. Example- I have almost exclusively used MF plastisol. But I can't get it anymore. I had also tried Dead On, and bought their softener to go with it. When I was able to get MF again, I just used Dead On Softener in my MF. No problems. Same with Bait Plastics. I used either MF or Do It brand of softener, no issues then either. Now I can't get MF again But still have at least a quart of Dead On softener. Don't know what platic I'll get to replace the MF, but I won't spend$$ for new softener. Same with Hardener. I've tried them all. I have LureCraft. I hate it because of the color and smell, so I tried Do It Crystal Clear. Worked fine in whatever plastic I was using. Others may have had different results. This is only my experience. Best I can tell you is, experiment And have fun.

I plan to reply. As soon as I can figure out how to explain what I'm trying to do. Sometimes the ideas in the head don't always come out the way we visualize them.

No, particle size does not matter. Dyes are soluble in plastisol where as pigments are not. If you think of it this way: -Pigments are like adding sand to water. Wont dissolve, wont move, the same as when you add it. -Dyes are like adding sugar to water. Will dissolve, will migrate to reach equilibrium. I know that is an oversimplification but it helps to conceptualize the difference between the two. Hope that helps.

Perfecoat .... But my distributor is not selling it any longer.

I went from KBS to a 2 part high solid automotive clear. I brush it on, turn it on my rotisserie. I don't need to wait 2-3 weeks for it to fully cure like that KBS Diamond Clear.

IMO, amoisture cred urethane is best. Dip it, hang it, done. The most popular is KBB Diamond coat, an automotive brand.

Silver buddy's were mostly thin stainless steel. Try them when the water is 55* and less. Slow, short lifts work best. Like fishing a jig. lift and feel just a few vibes and semi slack line it back down. This helps prevent the bait from tumbling and fouling hooks and line.

I live in warm sunny SoCal, but I still heat the hook and collar area on 90% of the jigs I pour. Air trapped in molds will only give you a minute incomplete fill. If you are heating your hardware and still getting bad pours it's a lead flow problem. Clean your spout. Wear gloves and ream out the spout with a piece of wire. (spinnerbait wire form) Be careful! Also placing the lead nozzle all the way down into the pour hole can prevent air escaping from the top. Gravity is your friend. I like the nozzle about 1/4" above the mold. Everyone has there own way of doing things. So do it anyway you want, I am just trying to help. Good Luck.

I used to fish with Billy and Bobby Westmorland on the Obey River. His mom has cooked me dinner. I ate breakfast with Paul Banks/Buddy Banks many times at Scottys restaraunt in Celina TN. Billy lived on "Small mouth Drive" near Stan Sloan. This ain't my 1st rodeo. Please stop thinking and posting like you are the only one making baits on this planet. You do this all over the internet. Many people know more than you think and maybe more than you.

Mark, aliexpress is the best place to get them but it will take a few weeks. Can get same on eBay but willl cost more and still probably take a week.

I would put it in the middle of the lower barb on one half of the mold.

Hot is not the problem! Either you have contamination on the baits or bad UV resin. I have done baits in 110 degrees F.

Sorry, I do not have a guaranteed solution for you, but there are plenty of UV guys that should step in here. My thoughts would be a glass divider to shield and/or a ventilating fan to draw away the heat. See what the others think first Dave

Mixed with other non-bleeds or not the dye will still bleed and migrate. No way around it.

100% it will bleed. You will need to try to find a translucent pigment to use instead of the dye to make it non bleed, not always possible but if you can it will help greatly.

I agree with Mark. I'm in the process of doing exactly that right now on a bunch of musky lures. I mark out and cut the lip slot when the blanks are still a block, then shape the lure. The lexan I use has a film on it, so I mark out and draw a center line on the lure and the lip and line it up by eye. I only make about 12 lures at a time, maybe it would be different if you were making 100. There is some risk of chipping out around the lip slop for sure. Two of my blanks have small chip outs on the edges. I'm not too worried about it as those edge areas will be filled with epoxy when I glue the lip/wire in. It can be worse if you are going to use a router and the router bit grabs the lip slot, I've been there. I just didn't run the router up to the slot, I left it just short and used my sander to finish the edges of the lip slot.

thanks, Mark. Thank you for saying that, that was what I was going to try next, however I didn't think about the center line on the lip, thats so obvious, yet genius. My concern (probably unnecessary) was chipping the edges of the slot in the shaping process, do you see that as an issue? if you don't mind, another question; on a 1.5-2" flat sided square bill, how deep do you cut the lip slot? thanks.

And with the money you save, you'll be able to by more molds! And down the rabbit hole you go. Just like the rest of us.

A simple google search brings this up but I agree with all of the points listed. others might not agree and thats fine. to each their own. But I much much a bobbin when I'm tying jigs! A tying bobbin's primary advantage is that it allows for precise tension control on your tying thread, ensuring smooth and even wraps around the hook, which significantly improves the quality and durability of your jig while making the tying process more accurate and efficient; it also holds the spool of thread in place, preventing it from rolling around and maintaining consistent tension when you release the thread from your hand. Key benefits of using a tying bobbin: Tension control: The bobbin mechanism allows you to adjust the tension on the thread to suit the material you're wrapping, preventing breaks and ensuring even wraps around the hook. Accurate wrapping: By maintaining consistent tension, the bobbin helps you wrap the thread more precisely and neatly around the hook. Reduced thread waste: A bobbin prevents the thread from tangling or slipping off the spool, minimizing waste. Improved jig quality: Precise thread placement with a bobbin leads to a better-looking and more durable jig. Ease of use: A good quality bobbin allows for smooth thread delivery, making the jig tying process easier and more enjoyable. Different sizes for different needs: Depending on the jig size and material, you can choose a bobbin that best suits your requirements.

Fill the cavity with plumber’s putty. Insert your book of choice and pour.

What works for one doesn’t necessarily work for another. I used to make 1000 bucktail jigs per year for one customer. I always used my bobbin, whip finisher, Danvil flat waxed line, and Sally Hansens to seal the deal.

The different styles ( or looks ) function pretty much the same , I make all mine myself and recently made two " Stonfo " whip finishers that work amazing . Camera and phone are smashed so when I get a new one I'll post pics Have fun man

I'm with Jig Man and just buy mine locally. For me it's a necessity especially for hair jigs and stuff like that. I don't think a guy could really tie hair jigs without a bobbin. Different jigs require different thread. IMHO The heavier denier is too much for smaller crappie size jigs, say 140 denier on a crappie jig. But, for bigger stuff a heavier denier is better, say 220 denier. I usually use Sally Hansen hard as nails on the threads just for extra insurance after whip finishing. I'd hate to have a jig come apart on me.

I usually do 1 tablespoon of softener per cup to drop it down one level of durometer. Also make sure you are using the same brand softener as your plastisol.

Thanks you Sir! Saw your post and already ordered.

Here you go Tiderunner. They still have it and emailed me about it this morning. Here’s the link. https://store.do-itmolds.com/search.asp?keyword=91253

Up to a point, the narrower the lip the more rocking motion a bait will have, flashing its sides up and down. Wider lips have much less rock and more tail wag. If you make a lip more narrow than the width of the bait, it can cause the bait to blow out and begin to spin on a constant retrieve. That matters more on regular crankbaits and less on jerkbaits.

Yes, they are.

Any of you guys try this jig? https://barlowstackle.com/do-it-hover-jig-mold/?utm_source=Klaviyo&utm_medium=campaign&_kx=m1ZtKI6WNjPliDaX3IhCPF8P2YM4rDdv6qTxaNw2Zv8.HY2xRH

I have the mold, It pours fine, I have not fished with it yet. I plan on tying some small skirts on the collar and should hold a trailer well too.

If you can't find that post, you can always try what I and I'm pretty sure a lot of others here do. Heat up some plastisol, add softener pour some baits and keep going until you get the softness or firmness you want. Remember to write down your amounts. And keep in mind everybody may have a different idea on what a soft bait is, or a firm bait. Etc. And of course different baits call for different firmness. Good luck. I wish I had your problem of a good buy on plastisol! Hard or not.

These look great! When are you expecting ice out up your way? Here in IL we're all thawed out, but I haven't been able to get out and spend much time on the water. Depending on how this covid-19 thing plays out, I may be able to get some time on the water in Western Ontario this summer. If not, hopefully next summer. You guys have some great fishing up north!

HAND CARVING YOUR OWN FISHING LURES Do you have an idea for a “new and improved” lure or an oldlure that’s not available anymore? Or would you just like to copy another lureand make some modifications to it? That’s not a problem any longer. I'm going toshow you in the following steps how to hand carve your own custom lures. If you follow the steps below, you'll find outthat it's really not a hard thing to do and you can step away from repaintingother people’s lures. I’ll start by selecting a pattern for my lure. This can be apattern that somebody else has drawn up or I can create my own pattern. I usecardboard for my lure patterns. I then write on my pattern any informationabout that lure such as: location of hook hangers, location and amount ofweight for the lure, thickness of the lure, eye placement, lip angle and type,and any other pertinent information. That way the information is always handy.I also cut the lip slot into the pattern. Select the wood that you want to use to carve your crankbaitout of. Here, I'm using Paulownia. I have several boards that I have planned tospecific thicknesses. You can also use a block of wood and after you cut outthe profile of your lure, you can just cut the lures off at the thickness thatyou want. There are other various woods that can be used including basswood,balsa, and poplar. The choice is up to you. I’ll trace my pattern onto the wood making sure that I markthe location for the eyes and for the lip slot. I also want to make sure thatthe grain of the wood runs the length of the lure and NOT from top to bottom.This will ensure that the lure has structural integrity. Once I've completed that, I’ll take the wood over to theband saw and cut out the profile of the lure. At the same time, I’ll cut thelip slot. Before I cut out the lure I will check and see that the table of theband saw is 90-degrees to the band saw blade. This ensures that the lip slot will beperpendicular to the lure. If I wait until after I carve the lure, it's hard tocut the lip slot and get it right. Using a small 1/16-inch drill bit, I’ll drill a guide holefor the placement of the eyes. NOTE: This is optional. I do it to give me areference point to countersink my eye sockets. In this step I will widen the lip slot. For that I use a1/16-inch diameter diamond grinding bit. I like to use one that has a 1/16-inchshaft. That way I can get deeper intothe lip slot. This bit will follow the already cut lip slot almostperfectly. Be sure to widen the lip slot before you do the tapers on your lureas the bit will sometimes tear out a small chuck of wood as it exits the lipslot. After I widen the lip slot, I then hollow out a smallchannel at the bottom of the lip slot that will allow me to insert the back endof the line tie if the line tie is in the lip. Next, I'll go ahead and drill the holes for the rear hookhanger and line tie (if the lure’s line tie is not going to be in the lip). I willalso drill a hole to accept the belly weight. The next step is to taper the nose on both sides and thentaper the tail. I can do this taper either by carving the taper with a goodcarving knife or I can sand the tapers on a belt sander. I’ll try to keep thesetapers as symmetrical as I can. You can see in the picture that the nose istapered about a quarter of the way back from the nose and the tail is taperedfrom about midway of the body to the tail. This taper may vary depending a loton the type of lure that you're making. Now I’m ready to start carving the lure. I will start bycarving the shoulders on either side of the back as in Fig. 1 above. I willcarve until the widest point on both sides is about the same width as what I'veleft across the back. I want those threeplanes to be basically the same width. You'll see what I'm talking about in Fig2 above. Once I get those flat planes carved on the shoulders I will roll thelure over and do the same thing on the belly. I originally started with four corners on the lure. Now thatI have carved those corners off, I have eight corners. Carve those corners offand that will basically round the edges of the lure for you. For you guys thatare carving musky lures or large swimbaits you will wind up with sixteen corners.Just carve them off like I did the eight corners. That should be enough tofinish the rounding of your larger lures. After I carve the lure I glue in the belly weight, the rearhook hanger, and the line tie, if there is one. My carving is now done. I’m going to sand the lure. I liketo use the fingernail sanding sticks that you find in the beauty department ofyour local shopping center. The ones at Wal-Mart are 100-grit on one side and150-grit on the other side. I use these because they tend to round the lurebetter than just sandpaper. Sandpaper tends to follow all of the contours ofthe lure and doesn’t give me that good rounded finish that I want. It’s just myway. Your way may work better for you. After I have finished sanding the lure Iwill sand the lure again with some 220/240-git sandpaper to give me a finalfinish. I give the lure a final inspection to ensure that I have allof my tapers symmetrical, all of my knife marks are sanded out, and the lurehas a general overall good appearance. My lure is now ready for a couple of coats of sealer. A few final notes: keep your knife sharp, take your time,and always check and make sure that you keep both sides symmetrical. I hope that you’ll give this a try. One you create your ownlure that swims like you want it to, there will be no holding you back. Good luck and I hope this helps. Gene Graham aka “Lincoya”

What helped me the most in rounding over baits by hand was to use layout lines for everything possible. Once I have the basic blank cut from my scroll saw and sanded to maximum final width, I use a compass to draw a center line around the bait. That locates my hook hangers, ballast, and gives me a cut line if I'm going to split a balsa bait for thru-wiring. Then I lay out the head and tail tapers with a ruler, measuring from the center line and then marking the taper lines with a straight piece of bendable plastic. I use a disk sander to to the tapers. When ready to round over the body, I use the compass again to mark out lines on both sides of each corner of the bait to guide me in making a facet on each edge. On the top and bottom of the bait, I usually adjust the compass to 1/2 the distance to the center line. On the sides, I usually make the lines twice that distance. When the facets are cut, that gives me the beginning of an oval shape in cross section for the bait's body. If you use this method, you will notice that the lines at the tail and head of the bait, if followed, would result in pointy ends on the bait- so you have to cheat when cutting the facets so as not to take off too much material. Nonetheless, the lines help me regulate how to facet the edges of the bait body, which I do with a Dremel sanding cylinder. Then I use the same cylinder to blend the lines of the facets into the bait body and finish/fine tune the shape with 220 grit sand paper by hand. Dong all this layout is a pain in the neck. But it hurts worse when I don't use layout lines to control cutting and end up with a bait that is lopsided or a toothpick. And using the layouts allows me to do most of the shaping "on auto pilot" without having to worry so much about the grain effects in the wood misleading my eyes. Maybe there are those who can truly freehand a whole bait and make it symmetrical - unfortunately, I'm just not one of them.