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I can't help with specific colors but suggest you look at http://www.taxidermy.net/suppliers/airbrush.php. The site has links to a number of taxidermy paint suppliers here in the U.S. and some of the colors (including metallic) are specific as to fish species. Otherwise, you will need to mix your own custom colors from a standard palette offered by Createx, etc. Many painters would opt to layer translucent colors and metallics for life-like fish reproduction.

I did my first tubes last year. Here are some pics of single and multiple rods I made: http://www.joefishin.com/TubeMaking.html

The thickness of the plastic will really depend on the temperature of your plastic. If your plastic is not really hot it will go on much thicker per dip. If your plastic is real hot and you dip it will get thinner coats especially if you do it while the dipped tube is still hot.on the dipping rod. Some people double dip tubes and if the plastics cold enough that will work all depending on what thickness you are trying to achieve. I usually do three dips. Two at full length and one for the body. I have 50 dipping rods so I dip one, hang it up , dip the next and so on, and then repeat two more times. The head thickness will depend on how the run is and the temperature of the plastic. if its real hot it will run off, if it is colder it will sag at the end. You just have to experiment yourself and see what works for you and find the look and feel you like. Hope this helps.

I used to dip tubes vertically. I agree that one rod at a time is best for good control of the plastisol flow. You will need some type of cutter for the tails. I got tired of doing it and bought molds and injectors from Bear.

What would be the best way to join the wires in the front? I mean joining the five wires to the one tie?

Seems most of you guys pour for freshwater but there must be some who do saltwater also. What additives do you put in for the ocean; salt, fish oil, something else? I don't need secret formulas but does the "regular" stuff like that make a difference? I'm taking the giant jigs I made up next week to try out and depending on how they do I will pour more for next year and am looking to see if I should get some other goodies to spice it up! Any advice on colors for ocean fishing? I made up several in basic colors; red, blue, green, brown, yellow and white, some swirls/multi colors, tried some laminates. All have pearl and/or big glitter. Commercial saltwater grubs don't come in many colors, is that due to economy of makers, low demand for saltwater plastics in general or are these the only colors(I doubt it) proven to be productive?

Nemo Blobs - how to StoneCoal, it's a bit hard to show how these were painted, as they take a while to paint and would need 4-6 photos (I am up to four now). I can tell you though - It is acrylic paint which I water down to about (guessing here) 20/1. The lure has to be pretty flat and held in a vice or something - using a small stick/nail (for bigger lures use a bigger stick) place the thinned color blob on the lure in the shape you want and let it dry. If you move the paint around while drying, you will get overlaps which will be darker shades of the original color.How it works as I am sure you would know, the watered down pigment tends to flow to the edge of the meniscus giving the darker line. Just keep adding colors and turning the lure (when dry) to add colors to top / bottom etc. It will speed up the drying if you use a hair dryer, but be careful as blowing the mix around may give you overlaps/ runs you don't want, then maybe you do, it's pretty random so try anything with it.. If that's not clear enough please ask again and I will try and elaborate. Have fun.pete

Couple of new colors: Golden Shiner Ghost... 1) Shoot a CLEAR bait with C'tex Chameleon Blue or Gold mixed as follows: -16 drops Chameleon Blue or Gold (preference) -appx 1/2 that amt C'tex Medum and Extender -thin with water and retarder Shoot light, dry coats until you achieve the level of opacity/transparency you prefer. If using flexcoat, clear coat now, wait if devcon. 2) Golden Shiner -10 drops C'tex Pearl Copper -6 to 8 drops C'tex Chameleon Green or Gold (preference) -4 to 8 drops each, C'tex Leaf Green & Light Brown -thin with water 3) Shoot belly and "cheeks" with C'tex Pearl White...light, thin, and fast strokes 4) Highlight cheek/gill with the Golden Shiner mix 5) Shoot Gold Shiner scales on back 6) Highlight throat (lightly) and/or cheeks with C-tex Flo Sunburst (light flo orange). Ghost Minnow...similar to Lucky Craft ghost Minnow 1) Shoot a CLEAR bait with the blue hi-lite body from the above color. 2) Shoot belly and cheeks with C-tex Pearl White. 3) Highlight cheeks with Gold Shiner color from above. 4) Shoot Gold Shiner back and slightly down sides of bait. 5) Shoot scale back, mixed as below: -10 to 16 drops C'tex Chameleon Green -4 to 6 drops C'tex Light Brown and Leaf Green -2 to 6 drops C'tex Gray -1 to 3 drops C'tex Tinting Black -water to thin and mix...will cover and look best if you shoot it a little "dry" MIX RATIOS BASED ON PAASCHE COLOR CUPS AND FC HIGH BUILD FOR CLEAR COAT. Have a few of these finished. Good patterns for cranks and jerkbaits. Can also shoot these patterns on a white or pearl white base color, but with the obvious loss of transparency. Hi-lite bodies will look a little drab until you throw some clear coat on them...then BAM! Will try and get some pics in the gallery this weekend. Already have some on the way to FL, so will soon see... Happy painting, good fishing.