@ archeryrob
Basically I'm making those eyes similar as shown in Vodkaman's video(thanks for providing it in here , Ben) , ...only that I would clamp the tag end of the wire firmly into the vise , hold the pre-bent eye with a crosswise inserted drill bit , nail or similar and put tension on it , then winding around the other wire end with pliers(my wire is obviously more rigid as the one shown) , ...need to change grip with every winding , though .
To glue in these eyes , one needs to furnish matching holes , in this case 3 mm dia(my wire is 1 mm thick) preferably as snug so thta the eye's shnk still has to be twisted in and not just pushed .
Really important is to put epoxy glue INTO the hole , use a toothpick to fill up it's bottom and smear glue all around it's inner walls , ....off course also apply glue to the eyes shank as well and slowly TWIST it in , not just push , ........this way glue gets everywhere and you'd achieve the best possible bond .
Just putting glue on the eye's shank would end up in having a good share of glue wiped off when inserting the eyes , ....a much weaker bond would be the result .
I had tested these kinda eyes , .......glued one of about 1" shaft length into the end of a piece of broomstick in the above mentioned manner , ...let the epoxy glue cure for 72 hrs.(max strength according to describtion) , ..fixed that timber piece into my vise and tied a cord loop to attach the wire eye to my 25 kilograms fishing scales and puled on the scales as hard as I could .
At about 12 kilograms pull(approx. 26 lbs) the cord snapped , due to the sudden release the scales got spoilt , but the wire eye was still in place , did not even bend oval nor the surrounding glue plug seemed to have lost grip on the wood .
And this was only on a linear pull direction , also the springy features of a fishing rod and the advantages of a reel drag were missing in that test , ....so I guess, that these kinda eyes will hold up pretty well .
Only disadvantage is the rather more time consuming working process and the higher weight compared to "ordinary" twisted wire eyes .
Concerning weights in such plugs sporting integrated head planes for diving , ..........when I was new into luremaking about 20 years ago , I had attempted to get them down deeper by placing ballast into their belly , ....only to find out , that this would seriously minimize their wiggle .
Nowadays figure out , that this must be because such diving planes can never provide as much leverage in the water like an added diving bill of plastic or metal , which makes up for a much bigger plane somewhere below the center axis of a lure blank , thus having a bigger tendency causing a lure to roll or break out sidewards compared to the most likely smaller integrated diving bill bein located AROUND the tow eye , thus not as much leverage as well .
This is the reason , why such plugs can't handle extra ballast in their belly , their general balance is just too subtle and sensitive .
Probably ballast placed right on dead center of the lengthwise axis and also on the lengthwise center of gravity would act rather more neutral , but I have not tried to achieve this before , ........I'd rather go for a suitable material in terms of hitting the right buoancy .
Check out the final picture with the lure on water , ....if it sits at this level , it would perform best , ....a little lower decreases popping sound a bit , a little higher would decrease diving depth .
A longer lower lip might cause the lure to flip over on it's back , a higher tow eye either , ........if your lower lip is a bit longer than shown , you might place the tow eye lower to avoid overturning , but in this case the lure would not wiggle as much .
greetz , Dieter