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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/13/2012 in all areas
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If you are wanting to laminate with the Twinjector let me give you a few hints that seem to help out alot of people. While the Twinjector is very well made these tips help out the new owners with a few things. The unit works better if all the parts are not tight, the top knobs should be loose and the caps on the tubes should be 1/4 turn from tight. This will smooth out the unit and deaden the feeling of binding aluminium. The temps are very important and should be within ten degs of each other. Most people when they start dont have a way of measuring the temps. When you know for a fact the temps are right the light will go off and laminates will be second nature. But I do know the lower the temp the better looking the laminate. I have a couple of videos on the use of the Twinjector on you tube that should help with the visual part of things. Look up franksrooty2 on you tube and see if that helps. If not pm me and give me your phone # and we can go over it. Frank1 point
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The shoooting star systems works because- 1- there are no blending block to cool the plastic 2- the dual injector has a variable heated control that keeps the injector hot,hence no cooling of the plastic 3- much more reliable and safer vs. the pyrex and micro wave deal 4- repeated heating in the microwave affects the plastisol viscosity and lighter colors 5- much faster w/ consistent results vs. all the negatives associated w/ pyrex and microwaves Yes it does cost 1k + for the initail set-up w/ complete pots and accessoriesbut in the long run saves money,time and aggrevation. Is it the perfect solution,no,but its the best available and minor changes are in the works to work w/ small amounts of plastisol in each presto pot.1 point
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You are the 2nd or 3rd person that says they get yellowing from D2T after 4 to 6 mos. yet I have spinnerbaits I've made that have been fished and are 2 years old with no yellowing at which is how I came to use it as everything I tried yellowed, including the flex coat but it wasn't the uv stuff. This makes me think either some of us are using something different or the cosistancy isn't the same depending on batch. Please don't take this the wrong way, I believe it happened as a few others had said the exact same thing but so far I've been lucky, not a single spinnerbait or jig has yellowed on me...At least not yet.1 point
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The Shootstar system from Bears baits will end your problems providing both colrs are of the same viscosity and temperature.1 point
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Took a crack at a trout pattern1 point -
A group of 2 1/2" PVC cranks I made. All the bills are 1/8" lexan. The one on the bottom left caught a 7lb2oz bass two weeks ago, and the bluegill caught several last weekend. The four on the left are copies of the Bomber Switchback that runs to 14', but I'm not sure mine run that deep. I do know they grind the bottom in12'. They all weigh 19 grams. The group on the right are different. Same basic body design, but flatter sides. The top one weighs 22 grams, middle is 21, and the bottom, the smallest at only 2", weighs 15 grams. They have different bills, too, and the bottom one, the smaller one, has the same bill at the others. It hunts. The middle one on the right has a wider bill, and it dives faster and deeper. It is the one I lost prefishing on Friday, and had returned to me by a competitor/friend after the weigh in on Saturday. He found it floating in the back of that cove on tournament day. If you look close, you can see where the paint got scraped by my lure retriever when I tried, and failed, to get it unstuck in the wind. All the paint is Createx, Hobby Lobby, or Wildlife, and I dipped each one three times in SC9000. i used a hair comb with every other tooth remove for the stripes on the bluegill. I added clear nail polish with glitter on some after the top coat had dried.1 point -
Third perch pattern. It keeps morphing every time I paint it.1 point
