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Gonna try to make this tutorial as simple as possible the tools and the material is very crucial to making this work correctly and easily First thing you will need to find is the Waterslide decal paper i purchase mine off ebay im using the inkjet decal paper comes in sheets the same same as regular printer paper most of its around $1.00 a sheet if your using inkjet you must seal the paper with clear acrylic spray but take my advice and use the treehouse studios version sold at your local craft stores like hobby lobby or micheals for those using laser printers there is no need to seal the paper the program of choice for me is microsoft publisher 2007 about the most simple program to use im sure others will work get your decals sized and paper sealed only seal the decals your planning on using otherwise the decals will become hard and hard to work with later i will speed up the drying process with a hair dryer also i use 2 pieces of foam to sandwich the lure in to force the decal to the bait Next step cut out your decals and lay them to your bait and trace around the body on the back side of the decal and remove the excess to keep the from overlapping you are only looking for the sides the top and bottoms will be faded later Now that you have this done its time to soak them in the water for about 30 seconds Simply slide your decal off the backing paper onto your lure once its on push gently and check your decal placement Now that its in the right position push down firmly until the decal is completely down Now that the decals are in place ill use a decal set solution to help the decals bond to the bait im using testors decal set but others like solvaset can be used but needs to be diluted once the decal solution has dried clean the bait with alcohol to remove any contaminates that would interfere with the topcoat and fade the tops and bottoms in to your specific needs and the finished product if you get spots on the decal that wont lay down use a hair dryer to heat up the spot and push it down with your finger just make sure you clean up the bait with alcohol after your finished handeling it i use 1 coat of bob smith 30 min. slow cure epoxy any questions feel free to ask

Thank you for reply! Yes, what I am doing now! Question is: Why Mapps or Blue Fox with there huge experience don't do it? May be for some reason? I am not thinking because of economy. They are using silver plated blades etc... for best performance. I am not fishing so much for accumulate enough statistics...

Left em turning over nite. Very good results. Looks like the full cure will take maybe 2 days. Not tacky after 12hrs. And NO micobubbles (like D2T). It laid perfectly over the foiled areas, wich is all I care about with this technique. So, the fisheyes were probably my fault for not laying a primer coat down before starting, and touching the unfoiled areas. I meant to say in the last reply that the ACC is LESS expensive than 105-207. Still, the comparison to West systems is really apparent, exept for the crazy mix ratio West uses. Letting the batch cure for 15 minutes made the ACC esier to brush on while holding the plug, then sticking it on the turner. NO BUBBLES! XCLLNT.

Glad to do it! That's what TU is all about!

As an aside... I used some ACC and some plastic bugs and made up some fake ice cubes... The Mrs. was NOT amused....