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I've recently started using the Auto Air candy colors as a mid coat over the createx base coat, then sprayed chameleon auto air over the top. The problem occurs when clearcoating with etex. Some of the baits are smooth and some have a dippled appearance. I think the baits with a createx base and chameleon auto air topcoat are fine. It seems to be the candy painted baits that have problems. I've had zero problems with etex until now. So, its got to be the paint causing this. I just don't understand why the chameleon is fine but the candy colors are the problem. They're all made by the same company and are water based. Can somebody explain what I'm doing wrong?? I just spent a chunk of money on candy colors and chameleon.

Shoot ........ just make them and give them away for free ............ then they can get 3 times nothing ........

I am the one that received the cease and desist yesterday from Zoom's lawyers. The bait that Zoom has a patent on is the super chunk. Its the ridges on the claws that I was in so called patent infringement. The bait itself doesn't matter its the patent points. Frank

I have years of experience with boiled linseed oil , it was recommended in a certain luremaking book over here well about 12 years ago or maybe even more . It says to soak your lure blanks in a 50/50 mixture of turpentine and boiled linseed oil for 3-5 days , after let dry for 2-3 weeks , ....at least until the timber would have lost the smell of it . Through the years I have tried this method on abachewood , lime(basswood) , teak and local pinewood lure blanks , ......and I've found , that it is only suited for the lighter and less dense abache wood . During the past two years I've also done it with a few natural slingshot forks from birchwood , but not painted these afterwards , but just waxed them . As for lures again , ......lime did lose too much of its yet already smaller buoyancy , teak remains somewhat tacky due to it's oil contents and pine also generates some kind of reactions caused by the resin contents , some blanks did split up or I had problems with paint adhesion . Finally abache reacts quite well , ......the waterproofing works well either , .....I have some abache lures more than 10 years old , their bite marks and hook rashes reach down to the sheer wood , ...still using them each season again , and they do not seem to soak up water , .......being topwater lures , I never sensed them to get to hang deeper in the water after a while of use . But also a big drawback with these : After months or years the linseed oil treatment might cause brighter colors on your lures to become somewhat brownish , in worst case some very ugly and dark brown stains would evolve underneath the lures topcoat . It will not neccessarely happen to every lure , but also it is unpredictable , ......I believe , that it depends on the individual grain of every single piece of timber used , .......somehow a little share of the linseedoil mixture sets inside of it and does not entirely evaporate from the blank during the drying process and causes the problem after a longer period of time . But as I've said , does not happen to all of my lures . Also it is more likely to happen , when solvent based primers and color paints are used , .........so any acrylic paints should be a better option . I've also found , that if a lure turns brown on it's white belly after while , this would not happen on spots , where ballast was glued into the belly , ....my last bunch of linseed oil treated abache lures I've primed with two coats of epoxy prior to the acrylic white primer and acrylic paint pattern(after 3 epoxy topcoats again) , ...just to separate the primer and color paints from the sheer wood , ........but just did it recently , ...time will tell , whether my theory would be right and no more brown stains would reach the surface of the lure . Even , if everything should work out well , ...your wood would turn a little darker after the treatment , woodgrains will show more pronounced , ....looking good on ntural slingshot forks IMO . So well , ....you see , that linseed oil is quite tricky in conjunction with paints , ......guess , it's rather more suited for gun stocks , natural slingshots or similar , .......all of other timbers but abache I'm dipping into ordinary liquid wood sealer from the tool mart , just to have a little protection ,......there are better sealing methods around , f. e. just yesterday I've started to dissolve propionate pellets in acetone , wanna try this sealing method for the first time , as I've finally found a source for the pellets in Europe . good luck , diemai

Maybe zoom sees a bigger check book now that doit is there. You never know. Frank

It does slide off. If I redid the video I would have another one that is cool enough to slide off. I get a lot of questions about that. I bet it is more like four times the width. But when it cools it does come off. Smooth edges and slow curves are the key. Look at a hollow belly next time at your tackle shop and you will see a hole in the top of the tail. Give it a try. Frank

OK, not an expert, but I think I have made most of the mistakes you can make with an airbrush. Two things come to mind. 1) How old is your paint? Was it opened and then set for quite some time? If so, it may need to be screened or filtered. I went to Harbor Freight and got some fine paint filter cones. I removed the screen in them and took the top off the bottles of paint. I put the filter over it and then screwed the top back on over it. It screens the paint every time I pour it. Once opened, especially if there is some air space in the bottle, you get films and skins that form on the paint that can send partial plugs into your tip. 2) Do you have a water filter on your air supply? If you get water in the air line it will move through with the air pressure and can cause the spattering/splattering you mention. I'll bet there are otheres that can help more, but until someone chimes in, check these two items out.

Bill, I went over and read some of the posts that are being made about this subject and so far there is nothing but bad advice being given. It does not matter if it looks like the bait or not. What matters is the patent points and where they are located. One person even suggested that if they had the money, to fight them. Keep in mind that if it's taken that far, that there's not really any backing out of it. I have personally dealt with Zoom's lawyer, he is not a nice fellow and does not like to be challenged. If you lose a case like this, it can result in having to pay as much as 3 times what the company says that you made from the product, plus lawyer fees. Cases like this do not go before a jury, it is decided by a single judge. And most of the time, the patent holder wins. You can bet with $12,000.00 worth of molds I can't use, I investigated this subject extensively. Someone needs to advise that gentleman to be very very careful. Do-It may have the money to challenge this, but most individuals don't, and if they do the odds of winning are very slim.

Joe no problem and you are doing a great thing getting son involved with lure making..