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I've tried several different techniques to apply the splatter effect and while having success with all there were some drawbacks. At least the way I've been doing them. I've tried putting paint on a toothbrush and flicking the bristles and while this works I always end up getting paint all over me and everything else close to me. I've also used Pete's (Hazmail) method of adding a short piece of a drinking straw onto the end of the airbrush. This worked as well, but I never could get the splatter as small as I wanted it. I've also used 68Kingfisher's method of holding a tongue depressor right in front of the nozzle and aiming the spray onto the tongue depressor which deflects the paint onto the bait. This method worked as well, but again I could never get enough control over it to achieve the small splatter placed exactly where I wanted it. The latest thing I've tried is to thin the paint to the consistency of water (the paint has to be thinned for this to work) and using quick flicks on the trigger to shoot the paint. I'm not sure if this will work with every airbrush, but it works really well with my Iwata Hi-Line HP-CH. I'm using around 20 psi and choking the air flow down with the MAC valve while pulling all the way back on the trigger to get maximum paint volume. The best way to describe the "flicking" is to press all the way down on the trigger while pulling all the way back in one, quick fluid motion and then releasing the trigger as soon as you feel it go all the way back. It's easier to do if you use just the tip of your finger. Doing the splatter this way has enabled me to get much smaller "splatters" on the bait and you don't get paint everywhere. You can hold the airbrush just a couple inches away and still get the splatter effect. It's also much easier to control where the splatter goes. At least for me. Like I've said before I'm no artist when it comes to using an airbrush and there are many of you who already know about doing it this way. Hopefully this will help some of the guys just starting out and wanting to try some of the splatter back paint jobs. Ben

Why not anymore did they stop selling to the public?

I think there is enough left in the business to carve out a nische; color range, quality, service etc. At the same time you are working the standards, I would also be developing new lure ideas to complement your range. Prototyping is not difficult; glued parts, carving, plaster and RTV molds. When you have a new lure that works, you can get ally molds cut when funds become available. Originality is the key, JMHO. Dave

First of all, I'm not slamming Bears company in any way with this thread. I think he makes a top notch mold, has excellent customer service, and is a respectable business man with genuinely innovative ideas. However, I recently bought one of his injectors and have had nothing but troubles with it. It won't pull the plastic up, and because of the lack of a locking pin, I've shot the nozzle in hot plastic several times. I've finally resolved myself to just removing the nozzle and hand pouring the plastisol into the injector, inserting the nozzle, and shooting my mold. This is more trouble than it's worth, but for larger multi-cavity molds, it's a means to an end. Has anyone else had a similar issue and how did you resolve it? Please, let's not turn this into a bashing fest. Bear deserves better than that.