Leaderboard

Of course I know it is a bass.....but if I ask a question about the picture, I can post the picture, right? ;-) I caught 2 small bass in a half hour tonight after work both on my little perch minnow and I'm pretty psyched about it!

I wanted to add, if you look at my pouring station pics I posted years ago on TU, you will read where I said My pots are insulated. It is easy for anyone to just wrap fiberglass insulation around your pots to help hold in heat and it also keeps heat distriputed in the pot. You can also purchase a heat band or motor heater strip you could add to your existing pots if you wish. You can do this without any fancy controls or gauges, just check your temps on the strips prior to installing around the pot to know your settings, and you should be good to go. I never tried this because I had no need to. But might be what your looking for Painter.

I have that mold and yes it is an open pour. You can pour any amount of colors you can fit by layering then one by one. It's makes a great looking bait and swims well too.

This is a quick step process for taking ordinary plastic milk cartons (polyethelene) and building form fitting stencils to spray through time after time. For those interested in any level of production, this will allow consistent pattern recognition. birdman Hardbait Stencils.pdf Hardbait Stencils.pdf Hardbait Stencils.pdf Hardbait Stencils.pdf Hardbait Stencils.pdf Hardbait Stencils.pdf Hardbait Stencils.pdf Hardbait Stencils.pdf Hardbait Stencils.pdf

Years ago my father and I made a lot of balsa wood plugs. This was really old school but we whittled then from blanks, rasped and sanded to shape all by hand, Made our lips from aluminum plate and attached to bodies with screws. Once we had the blank where we wanted it, we would dip it in shellac 2 - 3 with a light sanding between coats. We finished them with foil (elmers glue and aluminum foil and occasionally gold leaf) and various paints all applied with a brush. Lures were not exceptional but very functional. Our final finishing stage was to dip coat in spar varnish 4 - 5 coats if memory serves me correctly. I still have 2 of these lures buried in tackle box somewhere. They were durable and usually lasted until they got snagged or broken off. Old mono (1960's) was not always reliable and the drags on the mitchell 300's and 308's left a bit to be desired. With all the modern finishes, I still go back to shellac when finishing soft woods. It does a great job of sealing and surface hardening the wood and for me brings back many fond memories.

To me I think that the "slop" in the line tie enables it run more off its vertical axis. Without blowing out. I would love to see it in a tank. Lakes around here are too dirty to see it down at its normal running depth. Anyone have any thoughts on that ?

What are you using to extract the air?

I have not posted here in a while and I really don't have anything to add to the original problem of discoloring plastic. It happens with all light colors when you reheat regardless of what heating system you use. Practice and patience will help over time. The thing that is aggravating to me is all the BS that is posted in this thread. Has it changed on this site for people to self promote themselves or their products? Is it because that he is an advertiser? Hmm. Interesting. It is happening and not only on this thread but a few others. at least if they are going to do it, at least be honest about it. For someone to tell somebody that they inspired him to design a stir system is BS. It has been in the works over on his site for over a month and probably been being thought about for a lot longer than that. And then to have this person come back a day later and say that he has the problem solved in an insult. It is an insult to all the people that have spent a lot of time and money to make the products we use better to think that someone that is fairly new to that part of the industry to have the cure all in less than a day. Really? They are not reinventing the wheel, just copying an existing design and modifying it to suit their products. I know this is how advances are made all I am saying is be honest about it.

Yesterday I recieved a surprise package in the mail. In that package was a spanking new frog mold . I want whomever in the world to know that I greatly appreciate this gift . I sure don't know what I did to deserve it . I do hope that what ever it was I did brought you as much joy as this mold brought me . Just as soon as I can get to play in the shop again I wil see what I can do with it and then post pics . Again thank you . Got me in the ole ticker .

That is a perfect way to make long lasting stencils. Thank you for sharing it with us. Let me share the way I make them and by no means am I trying to put down or upstage your way. It is truly awesome:worship:. I buy large diameter heat shrink tubes. The kind used on large electrical wire. The smallest I use is like 1/2" up to 1 1/2". For an example, say I wanted to copy a wiggle wart pattern. I slide the heat shrink over the wart. Heat it very slowly so I don't warp the lure. I use a heat gun for this. When the heat shrink is tightly conformed to the lure, I use an exacto knife and begin to cut out the pattern. Since I use transparent heat shrink, I can see the pattern through the heat shrink and just trace around it with the knife. Then, I cut down the bell and back and I have my two halves. I then put the two halves back on the lure and simply put a piece of masking tape down the belly or back to make a clam shell out of it. Usually, as the bait tapers toward the tail, there will be excess heat shrink. I take a pair of pliers and smash the excess together while it is hot to form a place to hold onto the stencil. The heat shrink forms around the bill and the hook eyes to give you perfect placement every time!