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Don't sell yourself short. Figure up your material cost, plastic/glitter/colorant/bags/labels and the time it will take you to make them. If your price is higher then the commercial brands so be it. If they work and you offer something they cant get any were else then it is what it is. I have a local guy that I make a particular three color craw for, and it takes some time to make these. I charge him $2.50 a piece for a little 3.50" craw and he buys them 50 at a time, at least twice a summer. One night I had a couple local tourney guys coming by to pick up some lures, just as a joke I told them that they were the last I could do because the colorant was no longer available. When the bidding war got to $65.00 for the "last" bag of 10 of them I let them know I was just messing with there heads. I build custom rods for myself and several others also that cost a lot more then store bought rods, one guy I had stopped by probably ten times in a year talking about me building him one. Finally he said do it, and has bought 12 from me since. I guess what I'm saying is "never sacrifice quality for quick cash". But there are times when I'm stuck in the shop making lures when I would rather be on the trolling motor. Be carful what you ask for you might just get it. LOL

Saw this thread last week and started to reply , but got busy. I have been a member here since '06, but only visit seasonally - I paint November - February. Having done this for over 10 years, I have developed a clientele that is probably 90% Wiggle Warts. As a result, I have become very familiar with the wart...most of my business is re-creating pre-Rapala warts with hard-to-find original patterns and any other craw scheme you can imagine. I said all of that to get to this,my process for preparing warts for paint (I have found it to be the best way to revitalize the bait): I start with a blasting process - table-top model blast cabinet with 80 grit white (all supplies at Tractor Supply). Compressor runs @ 80 psi. NOTE 1: unless you have a large capacity reserve, compressor will run continuously to do the job. IMPORTANT: purchase a shop vac that can be dedicated to the system, and set-up with an air regulator to properly eliminate blow-by/waste (a simple in-line PVC "T" will allow enough fresh air mix to prevent negative cabinet pressure). NOTE 2: add an external desk lamp that can be placed on the lid (the internal light is less than sufficient). With practice, you will soon get the feel for quick and even stripping of the entire bait, including the bill - even on clear baits. Next, I inspect the bait for burs, hook gouges, uneven mold lines, etc., and smooth out with homemade emery board (Popsicle stick with 2 different grits of paper rubber cemented to it). Next, I seal the bait with acetone. Grasp bait by line tie with hemostats and dip into a glass jar filled with acetone. 1 - 2 seconds is all that is needed. Flash the acetone with low psi compressed air to prevent running, which will leave a powdery residue. This can be wiped away later, but a little practice will make for a shiny blank. If thoroughly flashed, you can place the bait aside in a pie tin or on aluminum foil. One little bonus to this slick finish, is that paint is easily removed if you need to mock one up, or just simply make a mistake. Now, paint your favorite scheme and clear. As for clearing bills, when you do so many "solid bill" molds, you have to paint and clear the bill. So, years ago, I quit masking the clear bodies, and learned how to paint the natural transition - much like the originals - and clear-coat the clear billed baits as well. I think it makes for a nicer finished paint job. By the way, I am a D2T guy - always have been. I believe it is the overall best for look, function and durability. Sorry for the long post, but thought that sharing might help someone out, I know I have found more than my share of bits and pieces from all the great guys here over the years.