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For the record. Even making for personal use is a violation of a patent.

Really cool how you designed the mold to incorporate a cavity in the finished lure. I have been thinking about doing that myself, it would enable the use of weight transfer systems in jerkbaits, for example. Great work, you look to be a natural. SS

Thanks SS. Cwietecki, link to video is here:

A very good question and one I have thought about many times. All that I could come up with is; if it looks right then it IS right. There are other things to consider; the hook and related hardware are part of the lures ballast system, so the size and weight of the hook is all part of the lure design; too large and you may stifle the action, too light and.... well you get the idea. With a new design, hook size is the easiest parameter to experiment with, before you start having to trim lips and move eyes. Dave

I found the website that I was talking about in post No11, lurebuilding 101. This is a dutch site and has plans for many different types of hardbait lure and other stuff too. They have generously translated all the pages to English so that we can all fully enjoy. I personally haven't tried any of the designs, preferring to design my own, but if Diemai says it's good then that is enough for me. Dave

I had many problems with the wrinkling and cracking as well with createx. I sprayed light coats and heat set well. Still had problems. Started dipping in pledge and it cured about 99% of the wrinkles. I still might have a small one here or there but it seems it is on about 1 out of 10 baits and usually one that I dipped in ac1315 probably before the pledge was fully cured. If I wait 24 hours after applying pledge to dip in ac1315 I do not get wrinkles.

That was my first thought too, so not only did I only spray one light coat of white on my crankbait, I used my heat gun on it immediately after I was finished. I then let it air dry inside at 73 degrees for a week and then I used my heat gun on it again before letting it air dry another two days. I kept my GST at room temperature in the same room as my crankbait. (I thought any temperature variations might be a culptrit. When i was ready to dip,I took everything outside, dipped it and the cracking/wrinkling was immediate. I use an Iwata airbrush and that coat of white was light. Its only one of three colors I have issues with. The rest are just fine. Weird. I'll find a solution. Hopefully soon. I have about a dozen baits I am going to have to repaint and clearcoat because of it. Hoping the Pledge with Future does the trick.

Mark's suggestion is a good one. I use clear frisket on both sides of the comb then use a sharpie to mark the edges of the frisket with something on the blank...top of eyes, gill edges, etc. That way I can get consistent alignment of the stripes on the blank. When done wash off the markings and overspray and its ready for use with a diffrent blank.

I buy mine at Lowe's. They stock it on the shelf on the aisle that has all the home cleaning supplies.

My theory is much like Vodkaman's in that the CoG needs to be below the CoB to maximize stability. It doesn't necessarily remove the roll, but it does help. This explains why taller baits tend to be more stable and shorter baits roll more. Much in the same way that flat sided crankbaits tend have a tighter action but rounded ones have a wider wobble. Here is how I view stability in swimbaits (no making fun of my drawing): With that in mind, here is my theory on rolling. While at rest, all is good, but when it moves, there are several things going on. The distance between the front and back of the bait will grow and shrink as the side to side movement is created. This has a slight effect on the side to side stability as the "footprint" moves back and forth across the center line. Assuming that the ballast is mainly in the middle section, the weight will move away from the center line, which acts as an axel, causing the bait's middle to drop. As it moves back to center, it stabilizes and then the imbalance shifts to the opposing side. Here is another poor drawing of what i am talking about: Assuming this makes sense, to Vodkaman's point, it is more than just stability as far as the roll is concerned, but stability certainly helps as it takes more force to pull it off balance and makes it quicker to stabilize at the center. If the movement of the weight across the center line causes roll, then to build on Vodkaman's theory, it would stand to reason that the roll might be reduced if the ballast was greater in the front and rear sections with just enough to stabilize the middle to decrease the amount of weight moving off center. That's just a guess though as I'm sure there could be other impacts to the action. hope this helps!