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Ok I am going to give a shout out to Basscandy92040. When I first met him on this forum I noticed that he had a website and that he sold some lures to catch saltwater bass. So recently I got into it and started fishing the harbor near my house. So I contacted him and asked him if I can buy some curly tail lures to catch the sand bass. He hooked me up for free and I tried them out tonight. They kicked butt! http://s296.photobucket.com/user/RayColon/media/IMG_20150608_015648_zpsbojvnq5h.jpg.html http://s296.photobucket.com/user/RayColon/media/IMG_20150608_015112_zpsslvdhdd7.jpg.html http://s296.photobucket.com/user/RayColon/media/IMG_20150608_015052_zpsnruq4vqa.jpg.html It kind of sucks though when you are catching fish and you get kicked out of a spot by security because I was fishing in a a no fishing zone. But oh well. Anyways thanks Basscandy and If a forum member hooks you up with a lure take a pic and don't be like the ingrates you give your baits too.

I buy my lead from roto metals, I buy both pure lead and 5% antimony and there is a big reason why I no longer use wheel weight lead for antimony. The shops I use to get weights from don't separate new ones from old weights, and the new ones have a high zinc content. If you want to ruin 10 pounds of lead, add 30 percent wheel weight lead that had a high zinc contenet and watch as it gets thick and clogs up your pot. It is so bad that new LEE furnaces now come with a warning against using it. That said, I run a 70/30 soft to hard ratio for spinnerbaits and a 60/40 for jigs, what happens is the lead will sometimes, not always freeze faster, I'm not 100% sure but I have a feeling humidity places a roll as I have very few bad pours during the winter than in summer. In order to combat that problem, make sure your mold is hot, and try to keep hooks in a place that they are at least room temp, if they are cold it can cause problems. But there isn't too many problems when making leads hard, and if I do have a little problem I'll bump up the temp of my pot and it usually works.

I wouldn't say that it is "The Book" to learn from. It does have a lot of good information in it. The book is somewhat dated, but the technology on most of the stuff everyone still makes today is pretty close to the same. Nothing like asking a lot of questions, and the best teacher of all is "Trial and Error". No-one can teach you more, than you trying and failing yourself. Experimenting is the key and persistence usually is the answer.

I couldn't agree more with Travis and I'll say it saddens me to no end, in time so much knowledge is going to be lost. At my age with failing eyes & arthritis my clock is running, I hope one of my children will take the torch as they have the gift. Those worms had 6-7 colors that skid took over 6 hours to make, 12 beers and 3 burns I remember them like it was yesterday. There are no recipes written. Thank you for the acknowledgements Jeff Piil Fringe Tackle Co

would something like this works ... keep us updated on something you come up with

OP....wasn't debating on how fast or how many baits I can make...and to be honest I can care less. I just saw you post a very rosy picture of micro waves and Pyrex and how it is all so superior to other methods....when in fact its not when it comes to Health and Safety. Can you make awesome baits with a micro and Pyrex? ABSOLUTELY!!! but as with everything in life there are pros and cons. You are not the only person on TU.....this is a open social learning site and there are hundreds of user from teenagers to well....old farts and at all different experience levels....many of which are lurkers. No reason to take any kind of offensive to someone mentioning the well know Safety issues with your preferred method of pouring...wasn't bashing your method....just mentioning the other side of the rosy path for some lesser experienced TU members.

or for laboratory type installations which this is closer to you would take your existing hood and measure the dimensions of it lets go with 2'x3' which gives you 6 square feet of area multiply that by 100 cfm per square foot of hood area and you come up with 600cfm as a minimum to adequately keep the fumes exhausted; and even then if you can walk in the room and smell the plastisol you dont have enough ventilation always think bigger not smaller in this case

this may help you out! i was the product developer and painter for fishlander for years. We used alot of PPG automotive paints for our 3 step painting process. First off you need an adhesive to spray on the blank. This makes the paint stick. We used a 222s adhesive from PPG, this gives the lacquer paint something to bite on. I sprayed alot of Lure Master paints like your deep pinks, yellow(chart), greens, and flame reds. The other paints were radiance colors that you had to mix. These are a concentrate that you mix with color blender and reducer to make the paint sprayable. The colors appear irredescent(you can see the finish underneath the paint) on silver gold and copper blanks. About 35-40 psi is suitable .........any more and you will not be consistant or accurate. These paints dry extremely fast. Within seconds. As far as your clear coat goes once again PPG. You can find it on there website. I think its called speed clear. It was PPG speed clear, PPG harderner, and PPG reducer. Following the ratios this clear coat was dry within 6 hours. But you could accelerate drying process by heat lamp or a fan. This is the way all spoon manufactures Stinger, Dreamweaver, Yeck, Silver Streak and Fishlander do it. This is the way i still do it. Hope this gets you on your way. Oh and for stencils you have the right idea w the dremmel. We used this process for dot patterns and other shapes or lines(perch bar marks and firetiger squiggly lines)Important....drill on the bottom side of the blade or spoon to prevent flattening blade....it wont fit properly. We would sotter a handle onto the stencil and you were golden to spray. Easy to clean too.....dunk them in thinner. Give a shout if you have any other questions Email me