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The thing that makes me suspicious of "PUD" is that it's water based. Members have tried water based urethanes (me included) and found they turn milky, soften, and delaminate when immersed in water for long periods. Water based finishes generally do that. If "PUD" has an additive that prevents re-absorption of water after drying, maybe that isn't a problem. But i'd want to see actual testing before I'd believe it, and I didn't see any info indicating it being waterproof in the description cited. If the company offers a test amount, I recommend you try it over paint before you use it on lures. Just say'in.

Reading in the first link it sounds like you mix two products together..The MCU's we use are a one part products.It doesn't mean this won't work..It's just different from what we use. https://www.kbs-coatings.com/DiamondFinish-Clear.html This is the product I've been using..Several guys from here told me about it. No problem with dipping..(I've probably dipped well over 100 baits in the same quart I have) If it starts getting a little thick you can thin it with a shot of xylene...Two dips is like one coat of epoxy..Nathan

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/15813-old-workovers/ Here is a link to the pic where I painted over old baits that I first made so the epoxy wasnt done right and they were quite beat up. I just removed the old eyes with a scalpel and gave them a little sand paper action, painted white on top, added stripes, new eyes and epoxy and I got brand new baits again. I did lose the detail in the gill plates etc but they swim fine and I've caught fish on them, well one of them at least lol

Probably 2 different cups; one with light green pumpkin and the other with the same base color and lots of blue flake.

on a single cavity side inject mold, pour the outside colour in the runner, then immediately inject the core colour into the mold, it will push the core colour through the outside colour

Jonister, also consider "fuming", this is a process they use to remove layers of paint from old paintings, saw it done years ago when working as a picture framer-- You hang the object on a jar lid and add a small amount of solvent to the jar (attach the lid without the object being immersed in the solvent) until you find the right one to dissolve the top coating, start with turps and work through alcohol, thinners and on to acetone and MEK etc until you find something that will dissolve the coating-- Because it's only fumes attacking the coating and not a liquid, it's pretty mild (and slow). How much time have you got?? I often use this to clean out an air brush overnight---this is good to strip back plastic lures, BUT keep an eye on it. Pete

copper pipe joints are your friend, sockets work well too. after the mold is filled, put the fitting over the sprue and top it off

I have seen Frank's setup, and he uses a hot plate, but it is some kind of a warming tray, not an exposed element. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/20895-two-color-ripper-baits-and-production-video/

Someone posted a clever solution that has worked really well for me. Take the blade out of a coping saw and suspend the bait in the saw with wire (I use the green florist wire). Tighten it down like you would when putting the blade in and it pulls the bait perfectly straight. It's great for painting, and great for clear coating.