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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/18/2016 in all areas

  1. I use Worth #2 swivels... American made with the best quality for the money... I have had nothing but bad luck with BB swivels from over seas.
    2 points
  2. I bought the Iwata Neo. That nozzle is very small and brass and is very easily mushroomed out and split with pressure on the needle. When I got the Iwata eclipse, I felt the stainless nozzle was pretty stout and much less prone to accidental damage by the user/cleaner. When the nozzle split on the neo, it took me a while to figure it out. I was getting bubbles back in the cup and spraying was inconsistent. I cleaned it and it still worked pretty well with water but paint did not work well at all. I finally felt an edge to the nozzle at the tip and put it under a magnifying glass. Of course a new nozzle is about 20 bucks. Barry
    2 points
  3. I guess they can get enlarged but it is much more common that they get split by rough cleaning, or clogged with dried finish. In my experience, the very small screw-in nozzles on Iwata and similar brands of brushes are pretty delicate. Soft stainless steel. Another problem you can have is the needle and the nozzle becoming mis-fitted so the brush cannot shoot a clean spray pattern. Iwata factory has a tech adjust the needle to the nozzle during manufacturing and he/she shoots a beautiful little pattern on paper that you get when you buy the brush. But if you bend the original needle, bump the nozzle against a hard surface, or buy a new nozzle or needle, the custom fit is down the drain and you're on your own. Bottom line is that unless you know the "black magic" of contouring and adjusting a new needle to perfectly fit the nozzle, your Iwata will probably never shoot as well as it did straight out of the box. So it pays to be very careful with an Iwata needle and that tiny little Iwata nozzle that's half the size if a grain of rice. Brands like Paasche and Badger generally use larger needles and cones (not screw-in nozzles) that are less exact but also less prone to damage. That said, I ain't giving up my Iwatas. They're just too good.
    2 points
  4. I would like to know, the best way to get a good splatterback effect on my hardbaits. Iv'e read about how one person used the air brush to make his, but I can't seem to make my Badger paint brush make the effect. I would like to here how many of you paint yours. I'm sure there are many ways to make this effect. I also heard of using a tooth brush. Sure would like to see what most of you do, for this. Thanks in advance.
    1 point
  5. People I'm all for a person making a few bucks for baits but in the US we have a agency that don't want you to forget them. My problem is I don't won't to see anybody get in trouble with this agency. This goes for eBay or anything else. I am not into the business thing at this level, but if you make a profit you most pay taxes on the profit. Then there is the State's. I'm just saying make sure you dot your i's and cross you t's, selling on line. I was going to get into it, but my hobby is not a business and I'm not ready yet to go that far. I could be wrong but I don't think so. If I am tell me. Good luck to the new site, Dale
    1 point
  6. Ditto! Add a touch of small red flake on those and they would kill out here!
    1 point
  7. Jig Man, I use a size #2 ball bearing swivel for all my spinnerbaits from 1/4oz up to 3/4oz. I too use nothing but Worth but ball bearing swivel sizes are pretty much the same so the size #2 is what you need.
    1 point
  8. Just to point out, I never said bears was better than baitjunkys, I liked both and Recomend d both, glad to know its calhouns for both cause I like both equally Figures both were calhouns lol I do have one that I hated and would never buy again, just bad all around
    1 point
  9. Theengineerguy.com Moldstar 40
    1 point
  10. Good question, Mark. It depends on your process. If you're evacuating the plastic from your injector and laying it on your bench after the shot, no it won't help. If you are keeping your plastic hot, either with a presto or hot plate and can evacuate the injector, and rest your injector in heated plastic it probably will.
    1 point
  11. Iwata are nice brushes, I have a few myself. However when buying one in particular I had a nightmare when I found the needle bent from the dealer. The nozzle was damaged and trying to get the brush returned was a genuine migraine headache. Will I keep them oh yeah, but I looking at a high end Paasche with all needles and nozzle sizes available. But when I got the new needle and nozzle I must have got very luck. The brush is doing very well. But be very careful... to the ones that hasn't never really looked at the nozzle. When Bob says "small", it is just that, very small and delicate. Put something under you while working on the brush. I got very close to losing mine. Lesson learnt for me. To me everything wears down in time. I worked with SS tubing some years ago and it thin down in the wall with just gas flowing through it. I guess the question is, is it performing as it did? This will be hard to tell because of the length of time. Just my opinion, Dale
    1 point
  12. Thanks Bob. I guess now I can blame my crappy paint jobs on the nozzle! Hahaha
    1 point
  13. Oh there is other companys out there as well.
    1 point
  14. Both of those plastics are calhouns. They don't make it they repackage it. The company's that make it are Spikeit, Mf, Lurecraft, chemionics, Polysol and calhouns.
    1 point
  15. Yeah, it can be a pain doing three. That's why I let my colors cool between coats, so I have time to prep and heat my next color. I add a little heat stabilizer to all the plastics I pour, just a dribble for a cup, so I can take my time and reheat as needed without worrying about overcooking my plastic. I do pay attention to the temps as I heat and reheat. I usually get them all ready ahead of time, and just reheat as needed when I pour. I an a hobby pourer, so I do very limited quantities at any one time. My back tells me when I've poured enough for the day.
    1 point
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