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Can we stop with the dick measuring competition that's going on and either get back on topic or close this thread down? We're all adults here, supposedly, so let's stop acting childish and represent ourselves and the bait making community in a way that we would be proud of.

Its still calhouns plastic in the end. Maybe bear never took the air out but it was the same stuff. As for knowledge of consistency most of what happens is user error. And now there is a lot of information on the forum about these type of things. I flex my knowledge here to help not to sell.

This is my first post. I've been browsing around for quite some time and I felt like it was time to give back to the community who helped get me started in soft bait making. After much trial and error I have been wanting to put out some info about 3D printed molds, First, you don't need a super high tech printer to make a good bait mold. The printer I started with was less than $170. Most CAD software worth having can be had for FREE to a hobbyist( I recommend Autodesk Fusion 360). With that being said, most frustration for me has come in the form of learning to design in a virtual space. If you can do that you have it licked. If you are new to CAD, youtube is a wealth of info but I promise YOU CAN LEARN!!!! On to the details: (Steam-lined) #1.Printing open pour molds is surprisingly easy. PLA is very capable of holding up to the rigors of pouring softbaits. Settings that seem to work well for me are 1.4 mm wall thickness with at least 20% infill. Perhaps printed molds have a shelf life however with over 125 documented pulls on my double cavity, open pour, chunk mold I think for personal use it more than does the job ( I have the file stored to print a new mold if needed, which takes roughly 2.5 hr print time). #2 If you want to make a custom mold for yourself the cost to quality cant be beat. #3 I have found injection molds I printed to be less than stellar. I have had more luck designing a 2 piece mold in two sections and the making a silicone mold of each side, then injecting. With this process it allows you to have a mother mold which you can reproduce as many times as you would like. #4 Sometime printing a actual model and then making a silicone mold is a good option #5 If you don't own a 3D printer their are plenty of 3rd parties that can print you design at reasonable prices I'll be happy to answer any questions anyone might have. Attached Pics are my chunk mold with a printed chunk that I made silicone molds off of as well as a two piece mold with masters

I get it!!! I just think that they are fantastic the way you are doing them and I wasn't sure how the paint would hold up. Making lures is a good way to relax and "fish" when we can't be on the water. When you decide to make a new color or new body type it would be cool to post a picture or two in the gallery section, I really like these as they are different and so seeing more of them would be a treat.

thx guys for all the compliments.the body of the prototyp is made of Wood,correct.i use a saw and sandpaper to shape them.i tried to paint them with airbrush,but i did not liked the result.first,i am a graffiti-Veteran,but a airbrush-beginner.for simple patterns i sometimes use a spraycan or airbrush.but i prefer to use brush and stick,very unique look,i can cover "repaired" and uneven spots on the concrete-body with the thick paint.and the paint actually holds to the body very good.after 2 coatings of etex it is good protected.@smalljaw:i completly get your point.at the moment it is only a winterhobby.feels like Meditation, i enjoy painting These Little fellas. but for the black dots i should use stencils and airbrush,otherwise i Need glasses very soon :-)

clamp it, take a 5/8 drill bit and drill it out. about 1/2 deep. Jacobs i am assuming?

Locking this thread now.

Woow..cool! For example, I've been in this hobby recently be reading special posts on PapersOwl Canada and I'm interested i role as a freshman. Tell me please how you want to create a show, I would like to see this reality and you need to organize it on a more global level than in electronic form. I'd love to visit something like that.

I have been using a mixer for awhile now. But hand works good too. Did it that way for a long time. Just had some one ask how long I have had my pots, it been about 8 years and no issues. So that way is hard to beat. Heated injector stand is great too but the guy no longer sells it. Have to pull that video off.

I fished these jigs hard today and didn’t get a nibble. All they wanted was a senko!! They stand up very nicely in the water, not to mention, they are extremely weed less which is why I purchased this mold. So far, so good. Now I need to test them on some fish!

Thanks Mark

Pam cooking spray???

You may be right, I'm here to catch fisherman. I think the bait is awesome. I believe this bait will catch fish, the fact that its a bait ball or not does not really make that much difference. Under the right circumstances and fishing conditions lots of baits will work. But to say a Bait ball of any kind is the be all end all of fish catching .......... im sure its not. Just another option.

Thx guys Couple places putting these out. Need 6 to 10" or so. You hook them to a kite string so they bounce in and out of the water. That's what actually happens when the Tuna are chasing them. My buddy wants to try this technique here in NE. Seems to work down south. Guess I'm just going to buy a couple and make a fiberglass resin mold. https://carolinalures.com/products/yummee-flying-fish-9inch

Let me know what you need bro.... I'm here to help. This is to push creativity for the community. I'd be happy to print some things for anyone needing to do some prototyping!

A little off topic but has anyone noticed increased success fishing these baitball style baits? I have always been under the impression fish target 1 minnow our of the school at a time and for this reason I ? If this bait style is more so to target fishermen. Not trying to highjack but my curiosity is getting the best of me