Jump to content

Leaderboard

  1. Bigpigbaits

    Bigpigbaits

    TU Member


    • Points

      4

    • Posts

      12


  2. bladesandbaits

    bladesandbaits

    TU Member


    • Points

      2

    • Posts

      571


  3. Vodkaman

    Vodkaman

    TU Member


    • Points

      2

    • Posts

      7,423


  4. Musky Glenn

    Musky Glenn

    TU Member


    • Points

      2

    • Posts

      985


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/21/2019 in all areas

  1. I believe the problem is in the different angles of the two wire shafts. The straight line of pull is from the line tie to the big blade, which means the small blade is coming through the water at an angle rather than straight through the water. Try the air pressure both from straight on and at a slight angle to see if that makes a difference.
    2 points
  2. 2 points
  3. hey.... I have no problem with a thread going in different directions..... I might learn something...... retaining is a different story lol
    1 point
  4. Moving weights in a spook is going to be problematic unless you use a steel ball and a magnet. Spooks should fly well anyway with their traditional weighting. I am currently designing a shifting weight lure, but I have a deep body and gravity in my favour. Dave
    1 point
  5. I’ve only made walking baits from wood but I’ve placed the ballast more towards the tail end. No exact measurements but approximately 2/3 of the total length.
    1 point
  6. Bassfisher1 you make some nice looking baits! Slick design JRammit!
    1 point
  7. JR - I remember our many discussions on the subject. Nailed it, you did good Dave
    1 point
  8. It’s a figure 8 link, I open it up, put the hook in it, close the hook end, I then open the other end a little and sit it where the eye of the hook would go. i used a file on the hook shaft area, was getting heavy flash, now it’s good. i open the eye up after casting, powdercoat, slip the blade on, and then close the eye while powdercoat is still tacky, before curing, figure the powdercoat bonding with the eye might give it some more strength.
    1 point
  9. 1 point
  10. I do my best to get as realistic as i can. As the not realistic paint scemes come easy for me. Then again i have been an artist i was little. Sold pencil crayin scetches at 12 and 14 years old for a couple hundred bucks.
    1 point
  11. If you have a small piece, send to to fishingskirt.com like Mark noted. They will match it for you and give you the number if they have it.
    1 point
  12. It's illegal to attach the blade to the hook, Even for personal use and not selling... Don't ask me how I know.
    1 point
  13. One of my Friends has been using lee pouring pots for many years. This may or maynot help some of you. (I don't know as I don't use them anymore) Using Lee Production Pots Pouring plastic with pots can be effectively accomplished, providing one simple rule is followed: The user must control the heat in each pot to keep the plastic at the correct temperature without over-heating. To accomplish this, the user must understand how the pot works and what accessories are needed for proper monitoring. How the Pot Works Production pots are heated using a heating coil similar to an electric stove element. This coil is located inside the casing of the pot, about one inch from the bottom. Power to the heating coil is controlled by a thermostatic switch which is located in the case behind the pot, and attached to a user control switch. A common misconception is that the thermostat switch adjusts the power level ( and thus the heat ) supplied to the heating coil. It does not. It simply turns full power on or off to the coil. The control knob on top of the thermostat is used to find the point at which electrical contact is made to supply full power to the coil. The numerical level of the knob for electrical contact can vary from pot to pot. The thermostat senses the radiant heat of the pot and opens or closes the electrical contacts depending on this radiant heat. This is important to understand if the pots are located in a very cold or hot location, as the surrounding air temperature can affect the temperature being sensed by the thermostat, and cause power to be supplied or turned off at incorrect pot temperatures. Having wind or a fan blowing directly on the pots can also affect thermostat operation. The biggest problem facing the user is that he has no way to tell when full power to the heating coil is on or off. Thus, he is always in danger of over-heating the plastic and burning it. With this in mind, I have developed several accessories and procedures to help keep plastic at the correct pouring temperature. Temperature Control Accessories Thermostat Power Light Adding a light to the thermostat power wire will enable the user to always tell whether the pot
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...
Top