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I use a propane torch to preheat my injector, suck in the plastic-shoot your mold and then put the injector back into the cup of hot plastic, push all of the plastic out of the injector & you are ready to shoot again.

This stuff is no worse than KBS odorwise IMO, I wear a respirator for both, I do spray outside. I was aways hesitant as well, but more from a clean-up standpoint, having to use lacquer thinner to clean everything up.. Easier to work with, with the exception of dipping, shelf stable, mix 2:1 , mix only as much as you need, spray lite tack coat and then spray several heavier coats, 10 min between coats. No rotating needed and it's cheaper than KBS in the long run and you don't have to worry about it "Going off", no Bloxygen needed. Now it does cost more up front than a quart of KBS, but long term it's cheaper. I got approx 1 3/4 gal for $150, but I can use evey bit of it with no waste. I wish I hadn't wasted so much time with KBS. It's nowhere close to being as durable as D2T tho...hope this helps... I paint larger resin swimbaits BTW

I disassemble the glue gun and thread the end where the stick goes in to screw onto the valve outlet. When I'm using the pot I have the glue gun tip plugged in and never have any issues with the plastic flowing.

Correct... I'm not blind or stupid... LOL..

Just be aware that micro bubbles have a SIGNIFICANT lung health issue! Most thermoplastic molders will not allow their use!

I drill the hole between the element and the outside edge of the pot. I also take the element out of a hot glue gun and adapt it to the outlet of the spout. It keeps the nozzle clear all the time.

i know this was originally an old post, but does anyone have a current supplier of "larger" buzzblades? I found some 2.1" at Barlows is about the biggest i can find.

Found it, thank you guys for looking. https://fatguysfishing.com/7-speed-worm-5-cavity/

Always use a base coat like opaque white, then shoot your neon craft paint over the base coat it will cover or show up alot better than on a bare lure.

If we could get a pic of your bait, that would be helpful. The weird deformity suck is a dent. I also suspect the air pocket is caused by the plastic cooling and contracting. That causes the dent. It is also causing the air pocket in the nose which is because your runner is too small. Here’s what happens. As the plastic cools and contracts, it needs a place to draw extra non-hardened plastic from. That’s why you see large runners on some molds. If this runner is closed off by hardened plastic before the bait has cooled and drawn what it needs, it will collapse and dent. If the runner is too small, as the bait draws from it it will suck air instead of hot plastic and makes the bubble. So how to stop all this nonsense...shoot at cooler temps. Typically 305 or so but you may get cooler than that but things start getting problematic if you get too cool. When you shoot, hold pressure for a ten, fifteen count. If that doesn’t work maybe longer. Experiment....Also, after you finish injecting pour more hot plastic in the injection port as it draws plastic. Do this once or twice. One other option is a sprue extender that extends the runners length. Can be homemade with copper tube or store bought.

I always thought that this video did a great job explaining the process: I've never done it (yet) but it seems like you have all the means to follow along here to make your own eyes. edit: Another video here Shows how he uses photoshop to create the fish eyes for printing.

Just ordered some Barlow's Mustad 32824, and some of the mold spec'd types. We'll see. Thanks

I don't know, I make mine from holographic paper (hobby lobby) and paint them myself. But why not find pictures of fish eyes they sell online and drag them to a painting program where you can resize and duplicate them on paper.

5 drops in how much plastic ? You mite need a teaspoon of heat stabilizer ?

As cadman suggested the Mustad 32824 is a good hook and it does fit but it is tight in a couple of cavities and really does not sit perfectly straight. You may have to modify the mold for a better fit. The mold I tried did close but it was a close fit. Another option would be the VMC 7150 but it is a smaller diameter wire so you may have seepage around the eye and where the hook exits the mold. It did fit and the mold did close. Jon Barlow

Shot cooler that should stop the denting. I would shoot it around 320 and knock another 10° off that if it still keeps Denting you’ll find the Sweet Spot.

No. Bubbles have not been a issue.