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Sorry, off for a while. IF I feel a need for a 2nd coat, I rub it with alcohol to clean any oil from it and just apply. No scuffing necessary.

When using beads made of glass and or plastic on larger inlines with blades #5 and larger, casting pressure and impact shock tends to crack glass beads occasionally. Plastic as a bearing bead will work for a while but eventually wear out do to the weight imparted pressure of the blade hitting the water and then slamming back towards the back of the lure upon retrieval. Yes everyone has there preferences but to me a solid brass bead , gold or nickel plated provides the best bearing surface for longevity and performance. If you go to a hollow bead for a lighter or smaller lure the wear factor shortens the durability and life of the lure. When I throw larger inline spinners using # 28 sonic or panther martin type blade , no clevis is required as the shaft runs through the blade and rotates around the shaft on a solid bearing bead in front of a poured lead body, the brass bead bearing behind the blade actually distorts the lead from the pressure and impact from casting and retrieval. Every spinner requires a balanced assortment of components in order for it to work properly that's what makes making your own so challenging and rewarding.