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And with that, I think this one will be locked.

These will work just fine. https://www.harborfreight.com/micro-flush-cutter-90708.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12169054043&campaignid=12169054043&utm_content=125548919708&adsetid=125548919708&product=90708&store=&gclid=Cj0KCQjw--2aBhD5ARIsALiRlwA6untSSZhmQCA7QcLN8r2QikPlirVsMtuE3oNXa0w-j5a_mPI-tSUaAmldEALw_wcB

I’ve been using plastisol for decades. I microwave mine in the garage. When I demold the baits I put them in a pan of cold water on the workbench. When I get finished I put them on a towel to dry. I have not seen the necessity of having them outside. I think you will have problems pouring outside if you live where it is cold.

When I wanted a deep blood or crimson look, I just used MF regular red..........and a TON of it!! Oh and welcome to TU!!

For my Do-it mold I put it on my melting pot, but for some of my smaller custom molds I picked up a used toaster oven off of my local Buy Nothing FB group. I use that to heat my molds and keep them hot. It also doubles as a curing oven for after powder coating jigs.

I heat my molds on a single burner electric hot plate. Mold gets hotter a lot quicker than placing it on top of the melting pot. As for hooks I really don't worry about heating them as I live in Florida, but when I lived up north I would place the hooks on an old heating pad and then fold it in half over the hooks

I do it the same way since 2005 and it works well. I put the mold on top of the pot and then turn the pot on. After the lead is melted I run 5 blank pours without hooks and I have an ingot mold under the mold as lead will come out on some molds. The only time I warm hooks is in the winter when it gets cold. I have a small stainless steel dog bowl that I put the hooks in. I heat the bowl with a torch for about 8 to 10 seconds and my hooks will stay warm for 20 minutes or so until I have to heat the bowl again. Remember, I only warm my hooks so they stay a little warmer than the room temp. The bowl is hot but the hooks on top only get warm, maybe 75 degrees. You don't need hot hooks, just warm and I only do that when it is really cold.

This was four colors in a package , The Loon torch was not included . The pink has seperrated and the orange is becoming seperrated to , tried shaking didn't seem to help. This stuff sets up really hard and tack free . The colors are would pop a little more if I would have put a clear coat on but it was just an example to show you Think it's a close match ,

You are insulting Lefty Puff ball home of the Puff ball jigs since 1981! You need to be respectful of the Puff!

Worst reader on the planet...

Thanks for all the help guys..Nathan

I like mthe Iwata Eclipse as well but I like the HP-BS because of the smaller cup size, less cup to clean with so frequent color changes but I'm usually only painting 1-4 baits at a time.

I spent a lot of time trying to math my way out of trial and error, some of it very good, some not so good. When it comes down to really understanding something, trial and error is most powerful. Dave

Thanks I had no one to teach me and went through a lot of frustration being clueless. After lots of failures this was my way of figuring out what I was doing wrong and then used it to experiment Wish I had TU back then but I would say I probably figured out things by trying stuff I would have never learned if someone told me how to build lures

@Hillbilly voodoo - I really like that learning idea. Good reply. Dave

Ok you can do lots of different things messing around with weight placement so your question could really go into an essay. Most common reason for weight placement is leveling the bait so the water catches the lip on the correct angle. Most common is weight place near the front hook to achieve the slight nose down most go for with crankbaits Now you can also impact action by causing the bait to be unstable. Think of the classic belly weighting as creating a keel to stabilize the bait. Move that keel closer to center (top/bottom)it changes the pivot point in the action. Now where you position it from front to back plays a roll as well. Closer to the front has less impact on the action but weight towards the tail tightens things up or robs action Hope at least part of that makes sense I recommend doing what I did years ago it will teach you a lot about impact of weight and placement on action. Make some blanks, drill holes in different locations so you can put weight in different spots and pull it back out. Seal the blanks give them lips( if you want just pressure fit lips so you can try different ones) and go play in the water You will learn a lot about weighting and action by going out and playing around with different placement. It will probably put you way farther a long in knowledge then listen to this redneck ramble lol I learned a ton about action from trying things and some I have a hard to explain. It you think in pivot points, catching water pressure, cutting through the water, and adding/robbing power with weight or poor/good hydrodynamics these are big factors

Please stop your ignorance!!!!! Please!!!!!

Some can't read... I don't want regular SS wire forms.