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I'd suggest you look at one of the successful commercial lures, and use it as a starting point. You can always use PVC for prototyping, since water intrusion isn't a problem, and then move to whatever material you'd like to use for the finished bait. That way, you can make as many changes as you want to quickly, without worrying about ruining your bait.

I'm sure most of you know this, but for those of you who don't or those who are new......... If you're experiencing any kind of burning or browning, heat stabilizer in small amounts can be your best friend.

Thank you for the reply.

The way you describe it coming to the surface is a problem I have with swimbaits, I started moving the line tie higher On The nose and that worked with most of them. Not sure how you test your weights, I use hot glue to attached to the bottom and then change up the weights till I have the desired action.

In one of the engineered angler vids he goes into detail about this and talk about bad shape. I looked but couldn’t find which one. Sorry.

I have made a lot of baits with bills, different sizes and angles and have yet to come up with any consistent pattern. I have two baits similar in size with the same angle and one dives deeper than the other. I did learn that size doesn’t dictate depth, angle is more important. Size can cause greater turbulence. This bait below look odd because the the large lip, but you can barley turn the handle and it starts moving side to side.

Funny you should mention glide baits... I just weighted a 6" arowana glide bait and swam it today. This one is made of oak and has a single lead hole at the point of balance. The hole does (I think) go up past the centerline. It has a good side to side glide and a very nice shimmy as it falls. Could flat sides have anything to do with the shimmy? And yes, I believe the centerline goes nose to tail down the middle of the side. @mark poulson i have never even seen a 7lb largemouth, so nice work!