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No we do not. I'm merely attempting to point out that one need not run their pots at the highest settings to get them to work properly. And that doing so is an unnecessary health and safety risk. Don't worry your mold collection will eventually grow bigger than you thought it would! Good luck and happy casting to you!

Yes lots of assuming! I've actually tested a lee 4-20 pots temperature. Here's a picture of a lee 4-20 pot on a setting of 8. As you can clearly see the temp is nearly 900° f at this setting. So just over 8 would surpass your assumption of 930°f I'm guessing at a setting of 10 you'd easily be upwards of 1,100°f or higher. So yes you could definitely be putting your health and safety at risk running at a setting of 10 on a lee 4-20 pot and I wouldn't recommend people run that hot. The reason I tested the temperature of my pot was because the mold manufacturer of a recent CNC mold I purchased claimed that other buyers of the mold we're having to use their lee pots at a setting of 10 to get the mold to work properly. But I proved them wrong and my mold works great at 7 and lower. Anyway you have a good day! Hopefully people reading this realize how hot a lee pot that most of us are using can get. And they figure out their casting issues without unnecessary health and safety risks.

I would not warm my mold with the teflon pins installed. The reason you pour blanks (no hooks) with the pin installed, is because a lot of lead will stream out of the pin opening on some molds. You might end up with a lot lead on your table and a incomplete pour. There is no set time on how long you keep your mold on top of your pot, also there no set number of how many blank pours you do. The goal is to warm(hot)the mold, and to get good complete pours. Some people warm their hooks in a tin, in a toaster oven. Too hard to place hooks in molds with gloves on for me, that is why I use a propane torch with cold hooks in the narrow parts of molds. Good Luck. I know you are a Delta Guy but lets hope Clear Lake(all California lakes) fills up with all this rain!

Not sure if you noticed but the post is 6 years old and the OP hasn't been on the site for 5 and a half years. Using 8% MB's for low floating or crankdown baits and 10% for walking or waking baits will get you in the ballpark and you can adjust from there to your liking for your specific bait. For glides I add more MB's and counter the extra buoyancy with weights in the bottom of the bait for a more stable swim.

Big Epp If you have any questions start a new thread and post them. That is what this forum is about. There are many knowledgeable guys here with vast experience in lead pouring and other things related to jigs. Just ask and someone will answer.

Sounds like woodieb has an idea of the issue at hand. I see Blue Fox has accomplished this with some pink and chartreuse candy colors on the back of their “candy back” vibrax spinners. I’m looking to accomplish something similar, with slightly more customized designs on the front of the blade and, if possible, candy color torpedo and bell bodies. (Still working out the best way to color the bodies).

sadly thats been an issue for decades. shooting candy paints will peel. even cleari coatinf.when spoons are plated it closes off metallic pores in metals..the larger spoon companies have aleways had issues ..nk spoons etc .i used to squirt 20,00 spoons a year ..when the markets tanked we just took spinner blades in to paint.

I don't think there is clear etching primer. At least, I have not seen one. If you are only painting part of a spoon or blade, you can tape off the part you want to keep the metal finish on. If you are doing a bunch of the same pattern, you can make a stencil to block off where any primer will go. I have done something like this on a spinnerbait blades by scuffing one edge or both edges with a green Scotch pad and applying paint to that area keeping the rest of blade with its original metal finish. A light scuff on an entire spoon/blade may be enough to get a mechanical bond and keep most of the underlying shine if the paint is thin. You could try an automotive adhesion promoter. I have never used that stuff. So, I would test a small batch first. I have seen it in clear and people have used it for paint on chrome car trim. It may help to see the a pic of what you are trying to achieve. There are a lot very knowledgeable people on here (myself excluded). A picture of some the patterns usually gets the comments and ideas flowing.

As woodieb8 says, it's best to buy the blades and spoons ready to paint. I usually buy white too as any color shows well over it. I have also purchased chartreuse for particular color schemes like perch, mustard, 5 of diamonds. Most of the lure component suppliers have a lower price painted line or at least a lower polished line. The LPO H series blades do not have a clear coat and can be painted over with no work. There is no need to pay for the higher polished finish if you will painting them. The more polished finish is harder to get paint to stick to unless you scuff and/or use etching primer. Save yourself some money and buy the regular grade of blade or spoon. For LPO products, the 'premium' finish is the regular grade. The 'regal' finish is highly polished and difficult to get paint to stick too https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Painted-Colorado-Blades https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Painted-Willow-Blades https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Premium-Finish-In-Line-Blades https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Premium-Finish-Casting-Spoons

we used automotive etch primer also. the easiest way if your doing manufacturing numbers is. have them powder coated in white when ordered .you will never have an issue then..our topcoats we found best is automotive clearcoat 4to 1 mix. you need a exhaust system.

I prime with Rustoleum Self Etching Primer, and don't have an adhesion problems.

I don't have a pool, but i'll use my brother inlaws. I put the mask on and watch the bait as he drags it through the water. He can't complain either unless he never wants to be invited to go fishing with me again.

As a kid, I remember the arguments my mom and dad would have when he'd test a bait in the pool. "They're disgusting and they have nasty oil on them. No one wants to swim in it after that!!!" Good times.......

Very entertaining post. I have used swimming pools a few times. You would be surprised how accommodating the pool boss can be if you ask. It is such an outlandish request, it will give him something to talk about next time at the bar with his mates. Dave