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When I use shaft wire cutoffs for the pin, I typically use .062. I mostly make 5" baits or bigger and I like a thicker pin. You can find the .062 as well as the .051 using Mark's link above. I have just started using sections cut from stainless rods used for axles in RC cars. The 1.5mm diameter is .0591" and the 2mm is .0787". I use the 2mm rods on baits over 2 oz. 1.5mm diameter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082ZNTD4J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 2mm diameter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08L7RKM6Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks Chris

Thank you! Love that response

My old eyes, man. I just realized you wrote Facebook, not Ebay. DOH!! Yeah found him on Facebook. Looks like great stuff!

Do you use the cut-off for the actual pins too?

It melts/goes gooey at 58-60 degrees Celsius. Fins and tails sounds like a good idea, it's really tough even when the goods is thin. I need to try that too.

I have tried putting a hook on the tail of a glide and it never worked, it always affected the action. I would stick with a soft tail.

I will try to make a rough guide based on my method. I made it up as I went along so probably massive room for improvement. I just use the pictures I already got. Also, English is not my native language, so things may come out wrong. Any questions, just ask. I made the molds out of tin/pewter as I melt old bowls and plates for some other lures. And I wanted the molds to be able to take some pressure without deforming. Also I left my silicone out in freezing conditions and fear it might not cure. Since the mold is made from metal at 230+ Celsius i made the masters from aluminium. Just hacksaw, files, sanding paper and patience. I also tried with a master of wood, it was very dry but it didnt work out at all. It emitted steam and got all bubbly and made a hole through the mold. It could probably be dangerous too. To make the molds I used molding sand, built a frame of some copper sheet, buried the master half way and poured molten tin over it. Then I turned it over, removed the sand and sprinkled talc powder over to keep the metal from sticking. Not sure if it is needed. Then another layer poured from the other side. After cooling the layers was easily separated and the master was not very hard to get out. In the first mold I did not make any bumps to make help aligning the two parts, but I did on the second: I also drilled some holes and fit in some screws to help out fixating the wire. Heads was removed with hacksaw, and I drilled holes in the opposite part to make room for the screws. To make the bait I melt the plastic in warm water, I also throw in the molds. I first fill the one with the wire, the attach the wire and lead. Next I fill the other mold and put them together. I use a screw clamp to squeeze out the excess plastic. If the plastic gets too hard to squeeze the two molds properly together I just throw the whole thing back in the kettle and tighten some more. Cool the whole thing in cold water and remove the excess plastic with a sharp blade. It can be remelted several times.

tdarin176 I found some more info for you as I looked at my Do-It catalog collection dating back to 2001-2002. All the pages in the catalog were all green and white. 2001-2002 was the last year they had colored handle molds. Starting 2003 all handles were black. See attached pics. some interesting info from way back in the day. It looks like t he black handle molds were the professional molds where they were better cast molds and the molds had multiple cavities of the same size head throughout the mold.

Welcome to TU. On the color handles, if I remember correctly. The different colored handles were the different price ranges for the different molds. For example all the orange handles were one price, all the blue were another and so on. I believe there were only five colors. Red, blue, orange, green and black. There might have been a yellow. Do-It stopped making colored handles prior to 2006, don’t know the exact date. They are all black now. As far as the molds go if my memory serves me correctly: #1. I believe you attach a hook at the back end of the wire form and you wire wrap the hook. I can’t remember if this is a free spinning wire inside the head. I also believe that you cast it out and reel it in dragging it on the bottom. #2. It is a smaller profile jig that looks like a bass jig with a weedguard. Don’t know why they call it a walleye jig. #3. I have its cousin which is a stand-up jig with a spinner blade on the back (mine does not have a weedguard). The correct 1623 hook has a crimp in it which kept the hook from turning in the mold. The 1623 CR hook is no longer manufactured by Eagle Claw. They do make the #1623 w/o the crimp. This jig is to be drug on the bottom, tipped with a minnow or a grub. Unfortunately this is a poor design. These jigs never falls flat on the bottom of the lake with the hook pointed up. They always fall over even if they do fall flat on their base. There are much better jigs for using live bait or grubs. #4. Yes it is a Sparkie style head spinnerbait with a weedguard. Weedguards on spinnerbaits are unnecessary in my opinion since the wireform will hit the weeds first. Interesting concept at the time. #5. I have this mold. It is a good dragging jig for the bottom and a good choice for a minnow or a grub. It has a wider base on the bottom of the jig making it better for dragging. #6 Post pic of mold. I’ve seen this before but don’t remember. This is all the info I got on this. I may have forgotten some info and maybe some info is inaccurate, however someone will be on here to add more info or correct me. There is a guy on here “SmallJaw” that has been pouring jigs for a long time. He may have more input on these molds.

I buy their .051 12" closed loop wires. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Looped-End-Wire-Shafts?page=1