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I do like using hardwoods for glide baits though, explicitly because it takes so much less lead to balance it. I tried making a couple subsurface gliders out of redwood (which is crazy boyouant) and it took something like 10lbs of lead to get them to slow sink...

I also like using cedar, and also redwood. Part of that is I have an ample supply from various construction projects over the past couple years... The part about cedar that i find can make it tough to carve is the very different density of the hard and soft growth rings. I have mostly red cedar. There is variation from piece to piece in this too. Overall though it is easy to saw and shape, it's pretty strong and durable, and it is very boyant. Another plus is how nice the shop smells when the dust settles! (I use a respirator to keep the dust from settling in my lungs). Overall though I take a very utilitarian approach, and use whatever I have handy. As other have mentioned, each type of wood has its own characteristics and quirks, and I find it fun navigating that variability. I've used oak, pine(s of all sorts), pvc, basswood, maple, cedar, redwood, etc...

Pheasants are done for this year. Will probably be able to get some next year if anybody needs them. Arne.

Platinum cure reacts to some chemicals and won't set up. If it has Sulphur for example. Cover the Krylon with another clear and give it another try.

You can stiffen almost any wood enough for detail carving, after getting it down to finish shape, by coating it with runny super glue. Just be sure to use sharp tools.

Balsa is good for shallow running square bills that are lively and rise quickly to get over cover that you hit (which is what you want to do). Paulownia is similar to balsa in density but harder than balsa. It sometimes has crumbly grain that can be a problem. I use basswood for deeper diving baits, or sometimes white cedar. Basswood sands great to a smooth hard surface. Lots of woods can be used although some of the most dense/heavy hardwoods can be so dense that it is hard to build a bait that floats after the hardware is added. Generally speaking, lighter woods are more lively and that’s usually a good thing. IMO, it’s best to select just a few wood species and stick with them because it makes building easier when you know how a wood shapes, sands, is ballasted, and takes finish.

I kinda like balsa because it easy to carve. If I find that Im gonna be somewhere where Im going to be really bored...I bring a block of basla and my carving knife. Plus...I have a huge discarded display case, for floats, that was made of balsa!

hands down cedar. its light,buoyant but sealed works great .other then our molded urethane lures,its what we use on cranks. just seal coak first.