Leaderboard

do-itmolds.com zeiners.com lurecraft.com basstackle.com baitjunkys.com stores.jacobsbaits.com ultramolds.com enforcerbaitmolds.com jannsnetcraft.com lurepartsonline.com anglingai.com fishingluremolds.com cncmolds.com baitmold.com barlowstackle.com fatguysfishing.com

Great idea. I will do that. I also have sticky wheel weights for balancing tires. 1/4 oz pieces. Thanks

Also if you have some old lead core line laying around can strip the lead out of it. Nice long strip of lead to wrap around things. Arne.

Also want to add that the 0.5 dd is a custom mold that Brian had made so that bait won't be available anywhere else. I haven't compared side by side but I think the squarebill that cedar run offers is different. his is bigger, closer to a 1.0 size https://fishheadcustomlures.com/point-5-dd-crankbait/ https://fishheadcustomlures.com/point-5-squarebill/

S I bought Dinger baits when Brian was closing last summer. I am slowly working on getting stock of everything he previously offered. the 0.5 squarebill and the 0.5 dd are both in stock now at www.fishheadcustomlures.com

Water quenching may gain you as much as one BHN. Adding a small amount of tim may also gain you one BHN. The tin may also help your lead flow better which will not help with your flashing issue. When I really want to make an alloy harder I use super hard from RotoMetals. It's a bar of lead that's 30% antimony. You could add pure Antimony but it will not melt till you get it over 1000 degrees. But the super hard has already been alloyed together so will melt around the normal temperatures for lead. I have a lead hardness tester that I use when I'm casting bullets. So I like to mix up a batch and then make an ingot once the ingot it is cooled I test it. When I reach the proper hardness that I'm after, only then I will start casting bullets.

When this happen to me with some lipped baits it was not enough weight in the front to point the lip downward.

If you’re really concerned about staying clear through reheats, I’d consider Lurecraft plastic. It’s more expensive but you’re getting what you pay for. That stuff doesn’t yellow easily.

Guessing you don't like the EWG design VMC 7321 or Gami 2014? Also guessing you've found Mustad 32729 incompatible. So your modified 32746 might be your best/only option. Different strokes, I'd prefer a standard gap version of the 32786. The Victory 10360 was supposed to interchange fit 32786 but the 2/0 needs bent to fit my mold.

How about a VMC 731 black nickel jig hook, 60 degree, wide gap, light wire. The 4/0 is .047" wire diameter. The 3/0 is .043. https://barlowstackle.com/VMC-7321-BN-Jig-Hooks-P3788/ https://www.jannsnetcraft.com/vmc-7321bn-jig-hooks-black-nickel Or Gamakatsu 2014 jig hook, 60 degree, light wire, wide gap. The 4/0 is .048" wire diameter. The 3/0 is .044. https://barlowstackle.com/Gamakatsu-2014-EWG-Jig-Hook-P418/ https://www.jannsnetcraft.com/830154 Sometimes the Gamakatsu 2014 is listed as regular wire but it is thinner than .052" I don't think there is anything wrong with bending hooks to fit your needs. I frequently do it to a wide gap hook with cork screw to fit short chubby soft plastics. I prefer not to. When you already have a supply that is close to what you need, my cheapness prevails. I can usually find a hook to fit a particular need. You have to comb through a hook manufacturer's websites to find a particular hook and the gauge info. Paper catalogs are nice when you find a company that still uses them. Always keep track of the model number when you find what you like.