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On the belly hook, you can try a T-type Treble like an Owner ST-35, KVD triple grip or other EWG treble where the points are slightly tipped in to reduce hook damage. You can make your own T trebles with pliers but be careful. Some hooks like Owner ST-36 are too stiff and snap when bent. If you are not careful, you could hook yourself or take a hook shard to the eye.

I use clear nail polish in the hook rash path, and it works.

IMO hook rash is only a problem when it comes off in chunks or the clear peels. That’s when you should rethink what you are using or how it’s being applied. I am happy when one of my baits gets rash in only one spot. are you putting one coat or two?

I really like MCU but have always had the same storage failure problem regardless of the heroic measures I tried to stop it. Now I think it’s just the nature of the beast. I’ve also had Solarez harden in its container after lengthy storage. I don’t know of any coating that stores indefinitely, except maybe epoxy.

I used prop dissolved in acetone a few years back. Over the years there were two members who sold prop pellets. One passed away and the other disappeared from the forum. Some have used dissolved plastic cups but results depended on the specific cup brand and the specific solvent used, with many failures and cracked clearcoats. And as far as prop goes, I’m not much of a fan. It takes 7-8 dips to coat a bait properly and at least 24 hrs to dry. Nothing wrong with the results but it’s fidgety to use and there are alternatives like MCU that are superior and faster. Jmho

Hook rash is normal.... trying to balance weight to function is something your going to have to determine yourself. Description to explanation to actually doing it is almost impossible to replicate from area to area because of temperature, humidity, storage and type of finish... So the more time you put in the better you will get. If you have any exact/direct questions, there is a lot of experience here to answer.

Ask Rick Grover at Angler's Marine. (714) 666-2628