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Tho I've not personally encountered any, there have been complaints of Power Pro and Sufix braid counterfeits circulating for years. I got some not available in USA Gami 604 #6 & #4 years ago that were more bendy than what I expected (on eBay haha). Has anyone experienced quality variations in batches of Gamakatsu jig hooks, especially wire strength?

Hello. I'm Jim and I invented this tool. The frame is extruded in Fresno, neoprene is cut to shape in Benecia, printed material from Riverbank. I assemble, package and ship. albertoknot.com has my email address. Please let me know if you have any questions. Thank you.

Yep. I can remember lively, even heated, discussions re top coats some years back. Which brand epoxy was better. How to preserve MCU. Auto clearcoats. Water based coatings. You name it! I can’t imagine here will be a new and unique clearcoat that we haven’t already seen and tried. But I’m probably wrong.

Thanks guys for information!

Time has caught up to me I knew it would as a hand pour only person. I've bounced in and out of TU over the years not to see baits to copy rather to see people & how they progress in their skill of making baits. I had a certain mindsets during my time with Fringe one being I wanted ownership the other to be the first. I realize the bait making world has and continues to evolve based on technology for one. I'll check in from time to time and no doubt I'll say to myself....wish I'd thought of that. Keep em flying...

I think the vintage schemes will work as well as the new ones except in a few situations. I think the action plus overall color scheme is more important in most situations than the detail. I paint some of the baits I make all white or all black. Sometimes I will add just a bit of red, orange or chartreuse to the throat. Those baits catch plenty of fish. Now if you are fishing in clear water using a jerkbait with pauses, I think the new realistic schemes will help as the fish can get a good look at the bait.

I couldn’t wait. I used it yesterday making 1/8 oz swim bait heads with a 1/0 hook. I’m leaving it in until my 2/0 and 3/0 hooks get here from Barlow’s. This is how my 1/8 oz heads turned out. I couldn’t find keepers so I made them from 20 gauge wire.

Right now on eBay there is a glut of Sufix 832 at suspicious low prices? https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=sufix+832+braid+300&_sacat=1492&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=sufix+832+braid&_osacat=1492&_sop=15

Thanks for the concise history of commercial tackle. Yup, sellouts & mergers. Do the vintage paint schemes work as well as modern holographic flash ? As for jig paints, I'd like to mention that my preference for raw metal jig heads was influenced by walleye jigging expert Doug Stange who also was also a pioneer adherent of boot tail soft plastics for that application.

No magic EZ pour solid set alloy eh? Thanks for the experiences.

I push it in with a putty knife, and that seems to help keep it in

The air dry doesn’t work. It crumbles and falls out. High temp red has always been extremely hard for me to remove. I only use it for permanent mods.

"Super Soft" was my selling point back in the day here in Central California as there weren't many of us doing it at the time. That rage really took off then. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but that seems to have fizzled a bit in the past decade or so. Now that I'm doing my fair share of fishing, really the only bait that I want super soft is a worm because as jigmeister mentioned, it takes next to nothing to set the hook. I don't want a soft craw, stick bait, ned rig, swimbait, etc. Just don't care for the action on them in a softer plastic. So now that I've talked about pouring baits just for me and my son, I'd say I'd probably go with 80 percent medium and maybe have a gallon of super soft set aside for worms. This is going completely against my selling point LOL! Just my