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I originally used one of the LED nail lights with varying results. They are generally 395 - 405nm. I switched to one of the fluorescent tube type nail lights that are 365nm and they cure the Chinese resin in about 6 minutes. I also found some Chinese resin on amazon the claimed to be "fast cure" but it actually cured slower than the regular Chinese resin from amazon.

I’m mostly a Devcon 2 ton user but you gotta respect builders that swear by Etex. Their baits are often some of the most beautiful to be found. I looked for the Fatfingers tutorial I mentioned but couldn’t find it. The primary suggestion it made was to mix the Etex and let it sit for 12-15 minutes before application to allow some of the solvent to flash off and let the epoxy start to cure slightly. I haven’t heard a lot of complaints about Etex, except that it is more prone to fisheye than other epoxies. Frankly, I didn’t use it because it requires longer to cure and multiple coats to build up a finish as thick as glue or casting epoxies single coat. Nowadays, I mostly use KBS MCU in 2-3 dip coats. It’s the lazy man’s finish.

Whittler, I surely don't “know it all” after 25 yrs of building lures but the idea of acrylic paint curing escapes me. I’ve not heard of any chemical reaction taking place after application of water based paint, which would constitute curing. I always thought it just lays there and dries. I use a hair dryer after shooting every color and don’t have a problem clearcoating lures soon after. Redaddy24, Etex lite is a good product but it takes peculiar application procedures to apply it over a painted wooden lure. I suggest going to Member Submitted Tutorials and looking for a tutorial by Fatfingers for best Etex practices. Bar top epoxies like Etex contain lots of solvent to expel bubbles while curing. Casting and glue epoxies don’t, which can make them easier to use.