Leaderboard

Nice and clean. Good job.

Saw an old video here from an old user “bojon” regarding his tail cutter. With the little information I was able to acquire I think I did a decent job replicating the basic function of it. While I do own the block tail cutter that lurecraft (I think) sells. I sort of prefer the ease of this one which does not involve a good hammering. Pretty easy to make although I think I’m going to add a few more blades to widen it a bit more.

Nice job. I just got through rigging one of my tubes up for the tournament tomorrow night. That is if the weather doesn't screw those plans up.

While you're waiting for your blanks, use the time to practice painting on some white PVC plumbing pipe. You can learn to paint curved surfaces, blend colors, and control your air and paint ratios and pressures.

Maybe pinching a rubber core sinker onto the shank of the hook?

hi mico ballons will weaken a body, when you pour and the foam rises blok your pour whole and vent. that will make the foam to collapse the bubbles and create a very hard outer shell.as for paints that will not affect a foam body.we use a 15lb ridid and never have your issue.

Glad you like it!

Should have mentioned that the ends of the bar that hold the t-couple fit in between the legs and the pot on either end.

The Texas AG office has been notified of the fraudulent business practices of hot runner machines. Hope no one else gets burned by him.

Throw the whole plug in power thing away and connect the SSR directly to the pins that come from the element. As far as the thermocouple, I drilled a little divot in the bottom of the pot (not a hole, really just an indent for the nose of the t-couple to sit in). Then I took a piece of metal bar and ran it diagonally across the bottom of the pot. I drilled a hole in it corresponding to the divot in the middle and mounted the t-couple there. You just need to make sure the nose of the t-couple is snug against the bottom of the pot.