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I build various size baits and a store-bought stencil kit wouldn’t be very useful, if that’s what you’re talking about. I went to an art store and bought a roll of FRISKET, which. Is paper with a peel off plastic backing. After using it awhile, I realized it was best if I didn’t take the adhesive backing off and instead just held it against the lure. Added benefit, you can keep the template and build a library of them. Frisket is easy to cut with a razor knife.

Jighooper I have made countless molds from Durhams water putty. After a while they will start to break down. The key is to not pour to many at one time. I generally pour 6 - 8 at a time. I’m still using molds I made two years ago. When I make a mold I bake them at 250 degrees for an hour to get them dry. Pouring a mold that still has moister will spew lead like a volcano. Before I pour I dust the cavities with talcum powder for better lead flow. If I can figure out how to post a picture I’ll show you a couple I have made.

I have the screws taken out of almost all of my molds & use the plastic squeeze clamps. I put on as many as i can get on them on just to be safe.

All the molds I have or have had do not need excessive clamping pressure. They just need the right amount of clamps in the right areas. Try this and see what you get. Clamp up the mold(s) firmly but don't try squeeze them hard. Shoot your plastic at 320° then try backing the temp down 5-10°. When you find the sweet spot on the temp that the mold doesn’t flash use a sharpie marker and write that temp on the mold. Slow down your injection plunge. If it’s a mold that requires holding pressure to fill appendages or antenna back off on the holding pressure.