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I used Connector Links for years. Inconsistent quality, too soft and have a larger diameter/gauge wire then the Do-it Poison Tail Swing Wire Forms. The Poison Tail Swing Wire Forms are stronger and have a smaller diameter. Smaller wire equals better/freer blade movement. Open eyed Hooks have a larger diameter then the Connector Links. The choice is yours. The Poison Tail Swing Wire Forms are a close match to the Jack Hammer wire form.

I make my blade baits using a Do-It Arky style jig mold and don't need to heat hooks or use connecting links . I used a TriSquare to mark a line at a 45 degree angle down from the top of one side of the open mold (to one side of the sprue hole ) to the center of the round recess in the cavity where the eye of the jig hook sits in the mold halve . I then use this mark for reference to make a line across both mold halves with the mold closed . Now using a hacksaw with the mold closed and positioned at a 45 deg angle in a vice I sawed along the lines I marked into the mold just down to the middle of where the hook eye sits . The mold is soft and cuts very easy so go slow . (The mold still pours arky jigs just fine with this mod ) OK now the blade part . ( I think I read this tip on this forum about using a center punch and tapping it into a hook eye lightly to open a gap the eye just enough for the blade to slip thru . ) Now you can place the jighook with blade attached into the mold and place the blade in the slot you cut and close up . The lead pours up to and covers the gap so the blade can't slip out so you don't need to closed the gap in the eye you create The only thing really different is painting the head WITH the blade attached but it's do-able . I have never had a hook eye fail or break as a result of stretching it open a tiny bit . I was apprehensive at first about sawing into a perfectly good mold but it is still working perfectly years later . I tried to be detailed enough for people to visualize this mod but a picture would have been easier . If anyone is interested I'll dig my camera out and post pictures

Zoom Centipede Stick is similar in shape

Use as a trailer on a charter bait and see what happens!

The mold says 1/4". This translates to 6mm.

Make your own wire forms, that are way better then the open hook eye method. Get some Do-it Poison Tail Swing Wire Forms (STW155) and don't look back. https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Do-it_Poison_Tail_Swing_Wire_Form_100pk/descpage-DIOTSW.html Use the wire forms with your favorite flipping or spinnerbait hook.

I agree. Basic fluke with little tail action, but a darn good bait.......and that is one wicked color!!

Light gold is plain gold and looks like fools gold; yellow gold is deeper and more yellow. Copper penny is what a copper penny looks like new, except buffed; light copper is more faded, more silvery; almond is a light brown-silver; light blue is a blue-silver. hologram looks different in different sizes but give a rainbow affect, especially in .008 powder put in clear plastic. Different shades of green are very different in clear plastic: kelly green is bright green; lime is kelly green intensified; chartreuse is yellow green; emerald green is just like the gem and the most subdued. It was suggested that various glitter colors could approximate different crankbait colors and for certain color patterns, dye would do better and black flake or Spike-It for spots. Florescent colors are not supplied, but most others are. The thing about emphasizing glitter color is to keep the plastic a light shade and very translucent. Opaque plastic (with salt or opaque dye) only allows surface glitter to show itself and the effect is lost. Some of LC flor. dyes aren't really florescent, just like LC's purple is really blue grape, in dye and glitter. Each general hue (blue, purple, green etc.) is a category of many subhues and really makes a big difference when trying to match a particular color scheme. Marigold is orange-gold (like the flower) and very unique. Sam