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As Aulrich points out, tow eye location is very important, and should be a part of your experimentation. Dave

I have a pile of lips that didn’t work and will sometimes go back and use them for new baits. I just guess and experiment a lot.

While I can get plenty of movement out of square style lips on a wake, there seems to be a point where if I make a wider body bait a coffin style is needed to get the action I want. More surface area to help push the bigger bait. ‘When I say coffin I guess you could call them all that but I’m talking more of a harder taper to the mouth than your standard square/coffin provides. Couple examples. The baby rat in natty wood needed a real wide lip to scoot but the typical 3 piece I make (lizard pic) moves fine on the more traditional square style lip.

One other thing to consider is the line tie position, I have increased action by dropping the line tie. I tend to start at the centerline but it seems to end up under the center line

alright it looks like I will be trying a few lips and trimming until I get a solid action. Thanks!

In my early days, I looked hard for a formula for lip length and width, it was the engineer in me. But alas, I failed. A sharp edge on the front face gives a stronger action, not so sure it is enough for you to notice. The thing is that every feature affects lip length; length and width of back, position and angle of lip, position of COG, and any other feature that I fail to mention. I make the lip a tad too big and trim it back until I get what I am looking for. Dave

Mark that is where I started. I’m sure you are better at this than I. I did a few with a mill bastard file. It was a pain and inconsistent. I want them to weigh 7/16 so I had to keep checking. Ted’s idea is a lot easier and actually faster for me.

proportionate to the size of the bait. Most Garage bait makers that I have seen, usually try multiple lips on each bait.

Damn spam!