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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/25/2024 in all areas

  1. And with the money you save, you'll be able to by more molds! And down the rabbit hole you go. Just like the rest of us.
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  2. A simple google search brings this up but I agree with all of the points listed. others might not agree and thats fine. to each their own. But I much much a bobbin when I'm tying jigs! A tying bobbin's primary advantage is that it allows for precise tension control on your tying thread, ensuring smooth and even wraps around the hook, which significantly improves the quality and durability of your jig while making the tying process more accurate and efficient; it also holds the spool of thread in place, preventing it from rolling around and maintaining consistent tension when you release the thread from your hand. Key benefits of using a tying bobbin: Tension control: The bobbin mechanism allows you to adjust the tension on the thread to suit the material you're wrapping, preventing breaks and ensuring even wraps around the hook. Accurate wrapping: By maintaining consistent tension, the bobbin helps you wrap the thread more precisely and neatly around the hook. Reduced thread waste: A bobbin prevents the thread from tangling or slipping off the spool, minimizing waste. Improved jig quality: Precise thread placement with a bobbin leads to a better-looking and more durable jig. Ease of use: A good quality bobbin allows for smooth thread delivery, making the jig tying process easier and more enjoyable. Different sizes for different needs: Depending on the jig size and material, you can choose a bobbin that best suits your requirements.
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  3. Fill the cavity with plumber’s putty. Insert your book of choice and pour.
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  4. What works for one doesn’t necessarily work for another. I used to make 1000 bucktail jigs per year for one customer. I always used my bobbin, whip finisher, Danvil flat waxed line, and Sally Hansens to seal the deal.
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  5. The different styles ( or looks ) function pretty much the same , I make all mine myself and recently made two " Stonfo " whip finishers that work amazing . Camera and phone are smashed so when I get a new one I'll post pics Have fun man
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  6. I'm with Jig Man and just buy mine locally. For me it's a necessity especially for hair jigs and stuff like that. I don't think a guy could really tie hair jigs without a bobbin. Different jigs require different thread. IMHO The heavier denier is too much for smaller crappie size jigs, say 140 denier on a crappie jig. But, for bigger stuff a heavier denier is better, say 220 denier. I usually use Sally Hansen hard as nails on the threads just for extra insurance after whip finishing. I'd hate to have a jig come apart on me.
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  7. I use just a standard bobbin. There is nothing special about it. I have more than one. I bought them at a local fly shop. I would be hard pressed to get by without one.
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  8. I'll have to experiment with that. I have a pint of baitplastics softener and worm oil but switched to dead on black label. I'll see if using baitplastics causes any issues. It'll be nice to save a few bucks without needing to buy dead on worm oil/softener.
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  9. I'm close to that same ratio. I'll use that amount to drop my MF medium to soft. If I'm adding salt or glass beading or even floating additive, I adjust from there. I'll even add softener to the soft blends when using additives. As far as using the same brand softener in like brand plastic, I wouldn't worry too much. I've been mixing and matching for years without issue. I don't want to keep buying more softener every time a manufacturer changes formula for their plastisol, and I change brands. I just use what I have whatever I have on hand. Example- I have almost exclusively used MF plastisol. But I can't get it anymore. I had also tried Dead On, and bought their softener to go with it. When I was able to get MF again, I just used Dead On Softener in my MF. No problems. Same with Bait Plastics. I used either MF or Do It brand of softener, no issues then either. Now I can't get MF again But still have at least a quart of Dead On softener. Don't know what platic I'll get to replace the MF, but I won't spend$$ for new softener. Same with Hardener. I've tried them all. I have LureCraft. I hate it because of the color and smell, so I tried Do It Crystal Clear. Worked fine in whatever plastic I was using. Others may have had different results. This is only my experience. Best I can tell you is, experiment And have fun.
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  10. I usually do 1 tablespoon of softener per cup to drop it down one level of durometer. Also make sure you are using the same brand softener as your plastisol.
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  11. If you can't find that post, you can always try what I and I'm pretty sure a lot of others here do. Heat up some plastisol, add softener pour some baits and keep going until you get the softness or firmness you want. Remember to write down your amounts. And keep in mind everybody may have a different idea on what a soft bait is, or a firm bait. Etc. And of course different baits call for different firmness. Good luck. I wish I had your problem of a good buy on plastisol! Hard or not.
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