Lincoya

Very interesting reading. Thanks for posting KC. Gene

Jamie, I think that it's a great idea. I'm always looking to add to my hand-made lure collection. Gene

Try Shorty's Hooks in Missouri. Gene

Mark, Yes, you do. But if you dry in installments, it will lessen the problem. Gene

When microwave drying wood you need to be careful that you don't "cook" the wood too long and ignite it. Yes, it will burn! To dry your wood, wrap it in a paper towel and for a small block of wood (say 1x1x4) microwave it for about 20-30 seconds and remove it and let it cool for a few minutes and then nuke it again and so forth. The paper towel will absorb the moisture so that you will get an idea of how dry your wood is. Once you microwave your wood and get little-to-no moisture on your paper towel, your wood is ready to use. The key is not to rush the process. Gene

Contact KCDano if he doesn't contact you first. I've seen his paint work first hand and it's top-notch. He also uses automotive urethane as a clearcoat. Gene

Quick! Get out while you still can! I've been here since October of 2002 and can't get away from it. Gene

Jed, Here's hoping you have a great birthday! Gene

Happy birthday, my good friend! Enjoy your birthday trip to Kansas City. Gene

If you are going to use lacquer thinner, then it must be virgin lacquer thinner (no pun intended here). You can find it at automotive parts places like Autozone for about $10 a quart. Gene

Thanks guys. This was something that Nathan and I discussed at the get-together. There is one correction (Thanks Vodkaman): Change the Eastern Cedar dry weight from .225 to .255. Eastern Cedar-----.255--------.280----------10% Sorry for the misprint. I have since rechecked my figures. It was late and I was getting frustrated trying to keep the figures in separated colums when I previewd it. Gene

After hearing comments off-and-on in the forum about water absorption rates I decided to do a little test. I cut eleven lure blanks out of various woods that I had on hand that I have heard people use for lures. All of the wood is dry and has been in my lumber room in the same environment for a minimum of a least a year. All blanks were cut into 2

Try this link: http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/7848-x-ray-baits-needed.html Gene

Jeremy, I prefer to glue in my lip as I clearcoat. It gives me a smooth transition between the lip and the bait. Yes, on occasion, I do get a little clearcoat on the lip if I get in a hurry. Gene

I would ask him to supply you with a picture or a more precise name. Gene

Dave, I'm glad someone finally said it. I agree completely. I like knowing where our member base is located. I think that the location field should be mandatory and any "silly" location should be rejected. What can you possibly risk losing by disclosing your location? Besides, I have made two local great friends by knowing where their location was. Coley and Charlie Mitchell both live within an hour or so from me. Coley and I get together occasionally and talk regularly on the phone. We have exchanged a lot of information over the past few years that we might not have exchanged otherwise. Gene

Just a reminder that some of us are meeting at Nathan's in Clinton, Missouri for our 4th TU Get-together. All are invited. Details can be found in the TU Events section. Gene

21xdc, Try rolling your knurled handle across your foil before you place it on your bait. Then use a screwdriver shaft to smooth the edges. You'll be surprised how well your scale pattern on the HVAC tape will hold up while you're putting the foil on the bait. Coat with D2T, E-tex, etc. and then paint. Gene

Pete, I assume by your response that you will not be attending. That's too bad. We will miss both you and Phil this year. Maybe you can come back again next year. Oh, BTW, I understand that Nathan will be providing life jackets for a select few walking the bank this year. Gene