Lincoya

Dean, Here is a web address that has a lot of different Bomber colors: http://www.ugachaka.com/Albumone.html Gene

Coley, Mighty nice! You're lures keep getting better. For those of you who haven't seen the lures that Coley makes, the pictures just don't show how well they look when you hold them in your hands. I haven't seen these latest ones but I have some of his past ones. He really does do excellent work. Gene

I just use the "old stinky stuff". Make sure that you apply it to both the lure and the back of the picture and LET IT DRY completely before putting your picture on your lure.

Out2llunge, 1.) I have used a spray adhesive (contact cement) and did not have much luck with it. When I applied my first coat of Devcon I found that the edges of my pictures wanted to lift. I use contact cement that I brush on and have had very good luck with it. 2.) I prefer to use a coat of Devcon over the pictures BEFORE I paint because I feel it gives me a smoother surface to paint over as it covers the edges of the pictures. It also keeps the paper from absorbing the paint. Plus, if you mess up the paint, you just clean off the paint and start over. Once the lure is painted I apply my top coat of Devcon. Gene

Many kudos, Nathan! I applaud you AND your lures. I think that it is a very well deserved write up. Gene

CJ, In Tennessee there are several larger reservoirs within a three hour drive from Clarksville. There is Old Hickory, Cheatam, J. Percy Priest, Normandy, Center Hill, Cordell Hull, Dale Hollow, Woods, Kentucky, Barkley, and Tims Ford. All will offer some good fishing with largemouth and smallmouth being the predominant species. Each lake has it's own characteristics: Dale Hollow & Center Hill are deeper canyon-type lakes while Kentucky & Barkley are shallow low-land types. The best thing about Tennessee lakes is there is no closed season on fishing. Gene

Coley's right! He told me about it and I have used it. It works like a charm. No muss, no fuss. If you mess up on the placement, just peel it off and restick it. Gene

Tristan, You can go to the link below. There I have explained my process for doing photo finish lures. http://www.tackleunderground.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=2094 Gene

Man, my elbow just stopped hurting! What a great idea! Thanks for the idea Cheesehead. Gene

Jed, Go ahead and sand and recoat. It will smooth out just fine. Gene

Excellent pieces of work!! Gene

We will be going to Hacienda Las Palmas on Lake Guerrero and will be fishing for largemouth bass.

Jed, Thanks for the compliment. I think you did a excellent job on your sardine and especially if you are using spray cans. I would be interested in hearing about any differences in your process and any (if any) problems that you encountered during your expermentation. Gene

Some of you asked how I did it. Here is a brief overview without pictures. In the future, when I find the time, I?ll create a web page with directions and pictures. If you have already done some foiling, then this will be basically the same procedure. Be sure to use contact cement to bond your pictures to your lures. I have tried double-faced tape and spray cement. With both of them the edges of your pictures will lift when you apply the first coat of epoxy. 1. Find a suitable picture of the fish that you want. There are many resources for this but the web is the best place to start. A good source is: http://www.americanfishes.com/ 2. Transfer ("copy & paste" or "right click & save as") your picture to one of your favorite photo programs. Resize the picture to whatever size lure you want to make. 3. Make a mirror image of your picture so that you will have a left and right side of your fish. 4. Print your fish pictures on regular white printer paper. I would suggest printing them at a quality better than normal. This will give you a much better picture to transfer to your lure. 5. Cut these pictures out. Nothing fancy; no fins, just cut out the basic fish body. 6. Using one of these pictures trace the outline of your picture onto your block of wood. If you plan on doing several, I would trace the outline onto cardboard to use as a pattern. 7. Cut out your lure blank. 8. Add the appropriate weight. 9. Carve and sand your lure blank. 10. Seal your blank with whatever sealer you normally use. I use Delta's All Purpose Sealer that you find in the craft department with the acrylic paints at Wal-mart. After the sealer dries lightly sand your lure. 220-grit works fine. 11. Brush some contact cement onto the backside of both of your pictures and your lure blank. DO NOT use rubber cement. Rubber cement makes a temporary bond. You want this to be permanent. 12. After your contact cement dries carefully stick your pictures onto both sides of your lure blank. Make sure that you get it right the first time. If it sticks too much, you can't pull it off and start over. Try to align both sides the same. 13. Burnish the entire picture starting from the center and working towards the edges. 14. Trim any excess from your pictures (if necessary). 15. Coat the lure with a long-drying epoxy such as Devcon 2-ton or Flex-coat. 16. Rotate on your drying wheel or by hand until the epoxy sets up. 17. Sand with light sandpaper. 18. Paint the back and belly of the lure with appropriate matching colors. 19. Coat the lure with a long-drying epoxy such as Devcon 2-ton or Flex-coat. 20. Rotate on your drying wheel or by hand until the epoxy sets up. 21. Add all hardware. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. By-the-way: Thanks for all of the nice compliments. Gene

Here are three lures that I have been trying a new (for me anyway) technique on. These are my "photo finish" lures. I have had a few problems but I think that I have most of them worked out. The one in the middle is my Talapia bait that I am planning to take to Mexico with me in a couple of weeks. Thanks for any comments; good or bad. Gene

I think you need to go back and check on your bait and see if it's still there. It tried to jump off the page while I there! Great Job!! Gene

Riverman/Nathan, Thanks for the compliments! Gene

Woodcraft has some pen making turning tools which may be what you are looking for at: www.woodcraft.com Or you can make your own using some concrete nails. Just grind them slow so you don't take the temper out of them. Gene

Nathan, I'll bet that's a "Hollywood" shop. You know, just a large picture placed in the background to look like a shop. His shop is probably covered with sawdust, paint splatters, and scrap wood just like ours. Chip, Nice work on the tutorial and the lures. I use Elmer's woodfiller to fill my holes in my lures. I see that you use the Elmer's tub. Have you tried the Elmer's in the tube? You can just squirt it in the hole. It's not as messy as the tub and doesn't dry out in the tube as fast as it does in the tub. Gene

Merry Christmas to all of you; the ones that I have known for the past couple of years and the new ones that have joined us more recently. You really are a great bunch of unselfish individuals. May Santa be good to you! Gene

Jigflipper, I only use Devcon 2-ton so I can't speak for the Envirotex. Devcon comes in a double barrel syringe. I stand the syringe upright so that the resin and hardener are in the bottom of the syringe and then push all of the air out before turning the syringe upside down to squirt out the epoxy. This should give you equal amounts of both parts. I would say that if your epoxy is setting up slow, then you may not be mixing it enough or maybe you are trying to cure it in a cold place outside. Gene

I use a thin double-backed tape and stack my Lexan to 6-10 pieces high and cut out that many lips all at the same time. While they are still stacked I then clean up the edges on the belt sander. Gene

I also own both. I have a Delta single speed scroll saw and a Jet band saw. I use the band saw almost exclusively. I agree with Joe. If you use an 1/8th-inch blade on the band saw, you can cut out almost anything. Do yourself a favor though; if you buy a band saw make sure that you buy one that takes a standard size blade. In the 12 to 14-inch saw range you will find that 80, 82, and 93 are good standard sizes. If you buy a scroll saw, buy a variable speed and one that takes plain end blades as opposed to pinned end blades. You will have a larger variety of plain end blades to choose from. Gene

I have used boiled linseed oil in the past on some of my carvings. I have found that it takes a couple of days or more for it to dry. I have been told that you need to be careful when using it and to properly dispose of any rags that you use with it. It has a reputation for spontaneous combustion. Personally, I would find something else to use that wouldn't be as dangerous. Gene

Jann's Netcraft has them. You can also find them at Hobby Lobby and other craft stores. They are sold as shoe eyelets. Gene