Lincoya

Robert, For drilling eye sockets I use a round ball diamond bit in my Dremel. After you cut out your lure and while it is still flat on both sides, decide where you want the eyes located. Mark this spot and then use a small drill bit to drill all the way through the lure blank. This will line up your eyes perfectly on both sides. Next, use the appropriate size diamond bit for the eyes that you are using and drill out your eye sockets until you can see only about half of the bit. If you selected the right size bit, your eye should fit perfectly. Below is a great selection of bits that, if not abused, should last a lifetime. This set is available at Harbor Freight at the link below. Don't be shocked at the price. The set is on sale right now for half price ($14.00) ITEM 36252-4VGA 50 PC. DIAMOND MOUNTED POINT SET http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=36252

Here would be another place for you to check: http://www.creativelure.com/lure_making.html Gene

Happy, Follow the link below. There directions there that may help. http://www.tackleunderground.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=662&highlight=posting+pictures Gene

Out2llunge, The diamond bits are not true Dremel bits. They are made by several other manufacturers and come in different syles, sizes, and shaft sizes and are almost indestructable. The bits that I use for the lip slot look like the ones in the picture below. You can find them at flea markets sometimes as individual bits for around $2.00 a piece. Harbor Freight sells a set of 20 assorted bits for $6.99 (item # 40547-1VGA). If you need more information, just ask and I'll see what I can do for you. Gene

I agree with the rest. I cut my lip slot while I still have a flat side to work with as this helps keep the lip slot square. However, I go one step further. I don't worry so much about getting the exact size for the lip with the saw. Once I cut the slot on my saw I use a diamond bit (which looks like a very small drum sander) in my Dremel to size the slot perfectly. If your lip is 1/8th in thick, just use the 1/8 diamond bit and run it through the slot. The bit will follow right along in the slot. No wandering off track. The final cut makes a nice snug fit. Same size every time. And it's takes less than a minute to do. Gene

Nice looking knives! Excellent work on the backfiling, too.

Little Sal, To stop theft I put my lures in display cases. It also keeps little hands from picking them up. I will let customers know that they are more than welcome to open the cases and look at them closer. I put hook guards (tubing) on my lures. I figure that it might prevent a nasty accident from happening. I prefer to price my lures where people can see the price. A lot of people may be interested but if the price isn't displayed they won't ask, hence no sell. Just my opinion. Someone else may tell you different. I have a six step progression of how my lures are made that I have framed and I place it on my table. Step 1: Square block of wood. Step 2: Lure cut out. Step 3: Lure carved. Step 4: Lure sanded & primed. Step 5: Lure painted. Step 6: Final assembly. It gets a lot of attention and makes for some good conversation. Some people look at it and ask, "Are these lures handmade?" I recently read an article on the web about table setup. This person sells candles but his advice would also apply to lures. He stated that when he sets up his candles that he sets them up by size or style NOT color. He says that people can find the size they want easier and from there they can see the color selections. Gene

I see a lot of people here who want to make luremaking their primary income and if that is what they want, then I wish them all a lot of luck. It's not for me. I just enjoy making lures. I sell a few here and there and make enough money at it to keep me in supplies and help finance my annual fishing trip to Mexico. I don't ever want to HAVE to make them. It wouldn't be any fun anymore.

BlackJack, Thanks for the response. I do appreciate your help but I am asking what type of scales (or other innovative idea) people use to determine the total finished weight of their lures. I appologize for any confusion. Gene

For those of you who carve your own lures what do you use to weigh them and where would I find it? Gene

Nicely done Chip! Gene

There is apparently a paint on the market that simulates frog skin. Does anyone know what kind of paint it is and where I can find it? Thanks. Gene

Thanks to all of you who responded to this message. It gave me some insight as to what others are doing. I took those flat-sides and installed the lip in some before painting and some after painting. I masked the ones with the lip and removed it before clearcoating. It worked great although I did have a bit of paint that got under the tape on a couple but it was easily removed with a fingernail. I did find that I prefer to paint and then install the lip as the lip gets in the way sometimes when painting. Gene

Ryan, Do yourself a favor and don't buy cheap carpet. The better carpet is not that much more and will last a lot longer. I have recarpeted two boats and used contact cement to bond the carpet down (as per recommended by the boat manufacturer). It holds great. Apply it with a paint roller to both the carpet and the boat, let it dry, and install it. Make sure that you have the carpet where you want it when you lay it down on the boat because it bonds instantly. Gene

I have recently made a couple of dozen flat-sided cranks. I usually paint, clearcoat, clean the lip slot and then install the lip. My question is: for those of you that install the lip first and then mask it off for painting, do you clearcoat before removing the tape or after? Gene

I use a Paasche H model single action airbrush. I have had this airbrush for more than 15 years and have sprayed leather dyes & finishes, water-based paints, petroleum-based paints, and epoxies. The brush has never given me any problems. I got a Paasche VL for Christmas last year but have not taken the time to learn to use it. I just can't seem to let go of my "H" model. Gene

For those of you wanting a little more information on Crystal Sheen try this link: http://www.geocities.com/fredaldous/SF96crystalsheen.html Gene

I have found that if I use Devcon on rainy days that it will cloud. Most of it will clear after a while (a week or two) but it does does kinda hurt your feelings for it to do that after you have put all of that work into it.

I have started using Delta Ceramcoat's All-Purpose Sealer. It's water-based and dries in about 30 minutes. I just brush it on, wait til it dries and sand it smooth with a 150-grit foam backed sanding pad. After that basecoat and paint. Gene

Purple Eagle, Check out this link. It may answer some of your questions concerning crankbait lips. http://www.angelfire.com/tn/treetotreasure/lips.html Gene

Thanks HS for the info. I haven't painted recently so I haven't had a chance to try it myself yet. Gene

I found this tip by Ed Walicki on Fishcarver.com and thought it might be useful for those of you spraying acrylics to paint your lures. "Since switching over from lacquer to water acrylics I noticed while spraying water acrylic paints through my airbrush I would experience a distorted spray pattern due to the build up of dried paint on the tip of the needle. Sometimes getting this dried paint off would be difficult and require disassembly. I found that by removing the needle and applying a good coat of automotive type paste wax and buffing it smooth from time to time would prevent dried paint from sticking. I would also do the same to the air cap that surrounded the needle at the tip of the airbrush. Once this was done I no longer had a problem with build up. Keep in mind this only works with water based acrylics, lacquer solvents will strip away the wax coating." Gene

I thought that these might interest some of you. http://www.umakelures.com/ http://www.luresmith.com/ http://www.yourlures.com/start_making_your_lures.htm Gene

Check out this website address. It lists several different brands with a brief description of each. http://www.tole-expressions.com/supplies/crackle_mediums.html Something I forgot to mention: these mediums are to be used with acrylic paints. Gene

Divani, I don't how easy it is to find things in Belgium but here in the U.S. you can look at most any craft store or department store that sells acrylic paints. You are looking for a "crackle medium". This is a clear liquid that you put on UNDER the color that you want to crack. The price is relatively inexpensive by U.S. standards. Just follow the instructions on the bottle. My experience, however, has been that the heavier that you put on the color that you want to crack, the more defined your crackle pattern will be. Just a note: the crackle medium will not affect the color underneath. I spray my basecoat color, then brush my crackle medium, and spray the color that I want to crack. I hope this helps. Gene