Jump to content

Nathan

Site Moderator
  • Posts

    2,193
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    41

Everything posted by Nathan

  1. I would guess on the baits your dipping you should let them hang longer before curing them.As for the brush marks..you need to use a softer hair brush..Nathan
  2. Go for it Dave...No problem putting it in here...Nathan
  3. This should be down in the advertisers forum.....Nathan
  4. Ned,Let me start by saying nice looking bait!...I've messed around with a few hard body frog designs on and off for a couple years.A couple things I've found is from the hook point to the shank has to be completely open.You'll need to move the hook back to achieve this.This creates another problem...your hook shank is only so long.So you may need to change hook styles ( straight eye) so you can anchor your hook mid body and use a eye screw etc. for a tie point...Or build one on a tube fly concept (Google tube fly if you don't know what I'm talking about) That way you can change hooks ... Also when you hook a fish the frog body slides away from the fish eliminating him being able to throw the bait. Also if you snag up... You can brake off the hook and save your bait.If you choose to go with the fixed hook version you can make it weed less a couple ways.You can attach a hitch hiker in the middle of the frogs back and either run a rubber band back to the hook or a thin piece of a plastic worm from the hitch hiker to the hook point ( something like a thin trout worm) I personally do not have a problem with a single hooked frog. I found that my hook up ratio was just fine.I think everybody thinks you need a double hook because thats what all the big companies are doing.If you really think you need two hooks how about putting a eye screw on each side of the bait at the rear and mounting a hook on each side.Then hook a curly tail grub Texas style on each hook. I have to disagree with BobP on the need for a hard bodied frog.I don't think they would ever replace the soft bodied versions however they definatley have their place.First of all they can be dead sticked as long as you want and not worry about them filling with water.Also when working them over heavy vegetation they have a heavy foot print which can increase you hook ups( they can be tracked easier and they set lower)plus you can cast them a country mile..there are definatley times I would fish a hard body over a soft body frog....I apologise for rambling... This is something I've spent a lot of time with...Nathan
  5. The Poly. Doesn't offer near the protection the Devcon does.....Not even in the same league...Nathan
  6. Please post your pictures in the gallery..Thank you..Nathan
  7. Mark, It will hold some water but not bad...I find that it is the under fur that absorbs water...I brush it out Of the Icelandic sheep before I Tie it in.....Icelandic and regular tieing wool are a little different in there make up.. John,I,ve been making those Rodents since 2001....It came to me one night while tieing up some flies.The fur on those is actually rabbit....The spinnerbaits I do are made with Icelandic sheep....I tie it forward on the spinnerbaits so it flares well....Nathan
  8. Lol...Yep...you can order it..no long hunting trip required.Not all fly shops carry Icelandic Sheep...Feather-craft.com out of St.Louis carries it...Great people to deal with.Let me know if you get some...Nathan
  9. Hey John, Nice looking "Flure"....kind of a Frankenstein Dawlberg Diver.You may want to try Icelandic sheep fur instead of marabou.It offers the same great action but it is longer and a Lot tougher....Nathan
  10. Hate to say it guys but I'm going to pull the plug on it for this year...Maybe there will be some interest next year...Nathan
  11. Unfortunatley guys we are going to cancel the get to get her this year..There doesn't seem to be any interest..Maybe we will try again next year...Nathan
  12. If you use thinned laquer is is dry in about a hour .I paid about 20.00 bucks for a gallon of it..After thinning you have about 2 gal...so it is a cheap undercoat....Nathan
  13. After my baits are sealed up I'll dip them in laquer paint.....but mine is thinned by about 50% With laquer thinner....I'll dip my baits twice which gives me a white base to start from....You can use laquer,water based or enamel over laquer with no problems...Nathan
  14. There is a post up in the "Docks"...Jerry is working on the problem..It is liable to get a little worse before it gets better..Nathan
  15. Nice looking bait Muskyslayer96 but please use the photo gallery for your pictures...Nathan
  16. Hey guys, April 4-6th are the dates set for this years get together.At the bottom of the forum page under Tu events is a sign up sheet...If your interested please sign up down there.It doesn't cost you a dime and we even feed you!!...I need a head count..more info. will follow under the TU events forum...Hope to see you guys there...Nathan
  17. I don't think you'll have any problems...It will bond just fine...Nathan
  18. Mark is right..I mix my glitter with a little polyacrilic and brush it on..Then top coat...Nathan
  19. I think Mark said he lets them hang about 5 minutes before he turns the lights on...I haven't heard of anybody having any yellowing issues..Nathan
  20. Catncall, A tanning booth will work great but I can't offer you any protection from your wife..lol..Nathan
  21. Anglinarcher, Good point... The correct bulb will be in the purple/white packaging...Nathan
  22. Seeking54, It stands for Boiled Linseed Oil....Nathan
  23. Great to hear George!!...Nate
  24. I believe there are two or three discussions on top coats going right now in the forums....One titled Solarez top coat,another one dipping Solarez, and another titled top coat options....those three entries alone should keep you reading most of the afternoon.If you use the search function you'll find enough reading material for a month...Nathan
×
×
  • Create New...
Top