redg8r

From #3: Each registered member is permitted a defined amount of upload space in the forums to display images or other attachments. This free offering is for technical use & NOT for exhibiting your work or for gaining feedback on your work. We require you to use the photo gallery instead to exhibit your work Also on the posting form you glanced over twice: Before Posting, please ensure your post conforms to our Site Rules. We have a Photo Gallery in place to display photos of your baits and catches. Unsolicited advertising will not be tolerated. Good point, however the submission in that thread is a "video" our video section is in but hasnt been released yet, when it does, the same rules will apply. Your forum posts cannot be "moved" to the gallery, its a different program altogether.Moving this thread from "Hard Baits" to "Site info" section, as this thread has nothing to do with making hard baits

Hi All, In an effort to reduce the amount of spam, we are suspending, effective immediately, the rarely used "thread rating" function. What we have noticed is that these spammer programs target the "highly" rated threads to attack with their junk ads. Note: this does NOT effect the photo gallery where the rating function is used most. If you take issue with this decision or have comments or questions, this thread is open. Thank you, enjoy the site. Redg8r

I see you placed the want ad so in regards to logging out, if the "Log Out" button dont work, you'll have to clear the cookie in your browser linked to TU.

A fundamental improvement in your catch rate would be to put the bait inside the trap rather than spreading it around the trap. I might have misread your process? I used to wad up bread slices, but in a previous thread someone mentioned dry dog food, which sounds like a great idea. Good luck!

Simple answer is, if you are pouring for profit, or color consistency is a crucial factor in your baits, you should buy in volume. Complaining to LC about color consistency will only spur them to complain to the actual manufacturer of the colorant, who may complain to the pigment supplier & on & on. This isn't an isolated issue, happens in many industries with paints, stains, dyes, etc. A common solution is to take all available containers of one single color and intermix every time you restock. If your newest bottle of tomato red is a shade off, mixing it with the existing tomato red on hand will result in a lesser more consistent shade. As for the complaints about the site, changes nothing. Every member agrees to these rules or they are not granted membership. Every rule on TU has a purpose. Yes the previous deleted thread was a solicitation. Yes an explanation was and is appended to every deleted thread. No we will not take the time to warn or notify offenders when they will not take the time to follow the rules to begin with.

Sorry Bear, also meant to say: We're always open to suggestions, comments and concerns. The advertising was something we never intended on doing, so if you have suggestions on how to improve the services, please contact me privately. Thanks.

No problem, we get it from both sides, we get complaints saying we give too much slack to our advertisers, We'll hold the middle ground. All in all, our main focus is to keep the luremaking forums technical & build around it. The classifieds unfortunately had to be housed in the forums but its for builder-to-builder one time sales & resales. All the best.

Did I miss something? I've checked the moderator log and the last thread removed that contained a link to your site was over a week ago. The thread was deleted (from the soft plastics forum) because the author was deemed to be soliciting our members to make him a mold, not because your site was later suggested. It was considered a "want ad" under the current rules and is required to be posted in the Classifieds. You yourself posted in a thread: http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/all-aboard/17077-introduction.html Also a week ago, however it was not deleted, it was moved to the appropriate "all aboard" (introduction) forum. Those are the only topics (related to bearsbaits) moderated recently in the soft plastics forum. Please understand, simply because a thread that contained a bearsbaits reference was removed, does'nt mean that's why it was deleted, we almost always list a public explanation next to all deleted threads. As to issues or complaints about another member, you'll have to send me a link, because I see nothing outstanding. Our members are entitled to opinions, as long as it remains civil. Currently, there is nothing in the rules that prevents other members from recommending your product/s. Hope that helps, if not you have my email & phone.

May be Chip Carlisle. You won't find him here but google "carolinachip" to find his site. I think he moved to Alabama. Good luck.

Hey Coley, I put up a new gallery for this years event Click "Upload" and look in the dropdown for "Clinton, Missouri 2009" Should be set to hold big pics so you might not have to resize. Still kickin myself for missing out this year, it was great to get a conference call from all of you, thank you for that.

Hi, Heres a direct link: http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/newthread.php?do=newthread&f=30 If your ad is a "want ad" or "for trade" let me know and I'll pass you a different link. Let me know if you need anything further. Thanks.

Used these a lot when I was younger. I'd bait it up with some pressed bread and cut up hot dogs. Always caught baitfish and crawdads, sometimes small bluegill and perch. If the opening is too small, there's a lot of resources online to make your own, google "minnow trap"

Currently, no. If the feature becomes available, we'd make use of it. There is a link that works much like the "New posts" function: Tackleunderground Home - Luremakers Photo Gallery - Newest Comments - Last Thirty Days Thanks.

Hi & welcome, The quotes below are your deleted messages in their entirety (minus attached photos): There are no questions or requests for help in the above topics, which is why they were removed. Your photos are welcome in the gallery and our members can rate or comment all they want. Here is a direct link to the soft plastics gallery: Tackleunderground Home - Luremakers Photo Gallery - or you can visit the gallery and look for the "upload" link in the white toolbar. If you visit the soft plastics forum: Soft Plastics - Tackleunderground you will see your deleted topics listed along with who deleted it, why they were deleted along with a direct link to the site rules for your own review: http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/tu-site-info-updates/886-site-rules-you-must-read-before-posting.html You have less than 10 posts, so you should have a notice on the top of every TU page, welcoming you and asking you to review our rules before posting. On the "New Thread" form that you've visited at least 7 times should have a bright yellow highlighted block of bold text instructing you to make use of the gallery. Welcome aboard, let us know if you need anything further.

Super glue (cyanoacrylate) sp? is a great sealer IMO if you can get it affordably. The thinnest viscosities will penetrate the wood and form a plastic like seal. I have used a polyethylene grocery bag to quickly work it into the grain & sand it with high grit like you suggested. Dries quick.

Now thats thinking outside the yolk......... "ba dom dom ching!"

Supporting the site with a Club membership removes the PM restriction.

While were on topic, anyone have a general consensus for a preferred length for wooden muskie baits? Being in Florida, don't really see very many and I'm curious what most Muskie builders limit their lure bodies length to. I've seen some small baits catch Pike & Muskie, yet I've seen adventurous builders on TU who make some as big as their arm. Thanks.

Pictures would speak a thousand words. Got any?

From the sticky: http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/tu-site-info-updates/16377-quick-links-menu.html You're not alone.....

One Thing I've done is: If you are using a thru-wire design, use a split shot above the belly hanger or on another appropriate spot on the wire. Since your casting into RTV the wire can be placed in the mold without modification before casting in exchange for a small amount of flashing near the hook hangers/line tie to clean if your mold is not vented or sprued, I usually fill one cavity with material, close/clamp the mold & stand it up. A small vent will help relieve the pressure & avoid capturing large air pockets in the bait. Good luck.

You should look for the number representing the cubic ft. per pound expansion. that also represents the hardness of the foam. The higher the number, the harder it is. My opinion is that anything under 8 cfp is too soft & many prefer a 15 to 18 cfp to mimic hardwoods. 8 cfp would mimic balsa IMO. My guess is that your foam is a lower cfp to be so inexpensive. I know most architectural duty foams usually are. You should typically be paying double what you are for the material.

That reminds me of a woodworkers lamp kiln. They work well when made and monitored safely. Great article Dave, should work well for you.

One thing to note...... Most manufacturers sell unpainted blanks as 2nds in other words they didnt pass inspection and were pulled before factory paint. Ask your retailers and distributors for 1st quality blanks and they will start requesting the same from thier manufacturers & distributors. I think we've all seen our share of blanks with debris in em, sloppy glue-ups, yellowed plastic, wrong weights, etc. but there are good blanks to be had, you just need to ask for them, or you will usually get the rejects.

If your casting in silicone molds, try spraying the mold cavities with oil base primer before casting.