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Everything posted by redg8r
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Just a helpful tip there, but you might wanna get to know some of the community here a lil, before you ask for a handout. Maybe finish filling out your profile here so the members can see where your from & if theyd be interested in having a tester from your area. where & what do you fish for? etc. The makers would probably like to know that in advance. Enjoy the site.
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Looks like a great swap lineup fellas. I initially put alsworms on this thread since this is his forum, but since mercury feels up to it, he's the man to speak to on the swap. Mercury, you wanna give a paypal addy to let guys pay online? PM me if you need anything. Good luck All & I expect some cool pics soon!
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Saw those last night & man those would kill down here! Put me a few of the threadfin & natural aside & send me a paypal invoice. I want some. also, dont know if youve done this color but your gold/clear (like on your swimbaits) would make a killer goldfish shiner.
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True True, My worry also. The rod & lever is lookin good to me now. SR, I see your point, but like Dave said, I enjoy this stuff & if I bought a pot, I wouldnt have an excuse to tinker & thats what brought me to makin baits to begin with. Does Lee offer a pot with 6 quart capacity? Some other needs that helped steer me to building one was: Pour clearance - My molds are tall & I mostly use 2=part molds that fill vertically, So I need an average of 6-10 inches of space under the pot, maybe more..... Auto stirring - Using input from Al's storage mixer, I'm gonna attempt to use a low RPM motor to stir the plastic in the pot. Maybe using the fryer basket by bending the drain holes to create small blades. Eliminating the hassle of mixing the plastic is my main goal, so If everything fails, I'll still buy a lee pot & figure a way to add a mixer to it Price - The fryer cost me $9.00, The motor, rod & fittings, I already have lying around. Total cost still under half the cost of a lee pot that has nowhere near the capacity. If this works, I'll make few so I dont have to change out colors & buying half a dozen lee pots can add up for someone thats not selling baits. Thanks for the input guys. didnt mean to hijack seminolefan's post, Ive got a bad habit of doing that
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Sorry, missed this, on the presto 6 quart the elements are exposed underneath & run the perimeter of the bottom, making the center a good spot to drill. justa FYI
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Man what a coincidence, I just recieved a package of soft plastic & a fryer in the mail today! I agree with the thermostat, I looked all over for the temp setting on the fry daddies/pappys/babys & couldnt find the set temp. so I went with a 6 quart presto with an adjustable thermostat. which is recommended because the temp will surely need tuning as the plastic volume changes. I thought about using a dimmer switch for adjusting the temp on a frybaby but I cant find one that'll hold that wattage without burning up. I'm checking now for a way to dispense the plastic, I'm either gonna tap a hole in the bottom center, or on the bottom side. Not sure whether I'll use a ramrod like the lee pots or try a ball valve. I'll try it in that order, cause the hole will need enlarging for a valve fitting. wish me luck
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Tried anglersantiques? http://www.anglersantiques.com
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many of the component suppliers will include a skirt of "living rubber" [for spinners] with thier finesse weights. You just pull a string of the rubber off (looks like one round string off a rubber spinnerbait skirt) double it over & thread it through the weight after its on your line (using a sewing needle threader works great) the pressure from the rubber holds the weight in place, yet its adjustable on the line, kinda like the old rubber "twist" sinkers. the do-it molds use a pin or bar system (i think) so if you mold em using the pull pins, the living rubber should solve your woes. but now that I think of it, the bar would make it a pinch-on right? or am I thinkin of a different mold there oh well They can be pinched in place with pliers or somethin, but doubling a piece of rubber skirt in it will work too. Hey splash, Ive heard you mention that lead before, where you finding that at? all my pencils are "lead free". sounds like it'd have some other good uses too.
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Hey Guys, not sure how it will ultimately affect the lead, but your run of the mill paint stripper will remove epoxy, which (in my understanding) thats what powder paint is. Paint stripper is nasty nasty stuff, so take all precations if you try it. We use it at work on catalysed finishes & makes short work of stripping just about anything, including my epoxied floor coat (when spilled) & flesh Jerry
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how do i make senkos(i have everything i need to make them)
redg8r replied to Stumpy041486's topic in Soft Plastics
is your mold 2 parts (2 halves)? the plastic will shrink somewhat as it cools, thats probably why you are getting a hollow tip. about the only thing to do is to fill the mold completely. I have a bait that takes about an ounce of plastic & i had to make a pouring hole about 2 inches deep & fill it completely, to accomodate for the plastic shrinking. As the plastic cooled it pulled more needed plastic from the pouring hole. hope that makes sense. -
at funnyfarm, I had a problem once with devcon, when you dispense it out of the double barrel tube, make effort not to get the 2 parts mixed at the tip. After getting the the 2 parts mixed at the tip & repeatedly attaching the cap back on, ive lost a couple tubes that way. if you keep it clean it should last awhile. I'm liking the FC too, Funnyfarm has sent me a few baits coated with it & they look very,very good.
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Hi Jason, Sorry I missed this post, I usually never pass up the chance to test a new bait When your ready, send me a pm or email me, I plan on alot of fishin this winter, november is usually a great month down here. I have quite a few baits to test, but me & my partner can cover alot of water down here, fresh & saltwater. thanks
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Cant help ya on the polyurethane, except you spelled it right I got the bright idea of brushing the mold with super glue. big mistake...it peeled completely in 2 days
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Hi all, I recieved this email & wanted to put the word out, if anyone was interested in mentoring a student doing a senior project for graduation. Ive offered to donate her son a package of components and to help with the presentation/commercial. If anyone in the clayton NC area is interested, PM or email me & I'll put you in touch. Thanks
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Ive been workin on somthin, not sure if its what your lookin for, but: http://www.tackleunderground.com/workshop/schemes.php its not even halfway finishedbut it might help if your in a pinch.
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man, I bet Castiac wishes they had that paint job Great work
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Yeah' date=' it seems only the very surface that has been cut holds water & its very little. this stuff reminds me of the EVA foam used in rod grips. Funny you mention that,.... I tried that night before last it does cut great, but its a little too thin for my tails. 1/16" lexan works fine but it takes alot of effort to dremel one down, & I need to make a near 180 degree curl with my latest project. Didnt know if you tried it yet, but you can sand the edges of that foam using a fine grit drum on a dremel tool, just a tip. Thanks larry & good luck on the water.
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Hi Jed, Keep an eye on mix ratios, ive noticed the 1 to 1 mixes are usually a tiny bit more expensive, but if you dont have scales or wanna bother with tricky mixing, the added cost is definately negligable. Smoothon does offer an excellent 1:1 mix, i use thier Oomoo 25, it has a faster cure time (4 hours) Ive also noticed that platinum based silicones run higher than tin based (obviously :oops: ) so watch for that. if you do have scales & dont mind mixing 12:1 or other ratios, you can find good silicones around..... Quantum Silicones is one that comes to mind. I hear from professional casters that most silicones are bought & resold from GE (General Electric) who may have some sort of claim to the compound, but for small quantities Smoothons mix is very easy to use & theyve always been prompt with shipment. (for me anyway)
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Wow Larry, thats some good detail, I use that foam for making curly tails on my masters before molding. its the easiest thing Ive found to cut, but youve got some intricate work there, good work. while were on the subject, I was looking around the shop for something to seal that foam with to make it a lil more rigid or at least give a nice glosscoat, Ive tried epoxy, super glue, etc. they help but dont totally soak into the foam. any ideas? I know the biggest problem is that its a closed cell foam, but in your application, thats a plus (stays bouyant) Thanks for sharing.
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Hmm.... well ...... Keep me posted if you get-er figured out, cause it looks like I may be in the same boat as you......... back to the drawing board
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Heres a couple of mine, Note, the lizard mold is NOT chirmy's lizard, its very similar, so I just wanted to mention that.
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I had the same problem bigsplash, I think my deal was that I made the tail section too thick, after looking at other baits, I noticed the tail section just before the spade tip is usually very narrow. I'm currently re-doing a new prototype to test & see if this helps. I gotta be careful though, cause Im doing a 2part mold & if its too narrow, it will never fill when I pour. gotta love the ole trial & error, huh
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no no Del, I split this thread into a new one where I put the posts with recipes in them...the link to it is above.
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Heres the ones submitted from the users at redg8r.com: date : 26/11/2002 Color : aarons magic By : chirmy Plastic : litlle bit Mix : add 4 drops of green and 6 drops of blue pearl to about 3 ounces of plastic Notes : Not exactly but a close look alike date : 26/11/2002 Color : Bluegill By : B & D Lures 1 Plastic : 1-2 ounces of plastic Mix : black color-add 1 drop of color to plastic until you get a light to medium shade of smoke. .035 black glitter .035 gold glitter .035 blue glitter put the same amount of black and blue glitter in the plastic. put only a very light amount of gold glitter in the plastic. Mix everything real well, by stiring. Once you are satisfied with the mixing, begin pouring into your mold(s). Mix again after 2 pours. date : 27/11/2002 Color : Zoom Plastic recycle By : Larryinmarietta Plastic : 1/2 cup of old zoom worms Mix : For more heavy baits add more salt when worms are completely melted. Notes : This is for micowave oven directions: first add about 1/8 cup of un-cooked fresh liquid plastic to a corningware cup. Then add plastic worms parts, cut up into 1 inch parts. Set micowave to low/med power and set timer for 1 min. You will have to adjust the time and setting for your microwave. I use an old unit in the garage for this activity. Spray the molds with worm oil/jacks juice/cooking oil pam to make getting the new worms out of the mold. Cook the plastic till the new plastic is ready and the old worms are all melted. Add additional salt and glitter if needed and pour. date : 28/11/2002 Color : smoke with flake By : megabass/ Ken Plastic : per ounce Mix : sure this is an easy one but years ago I had to learn by trial and error so this should help someone just starting to pour worms. add one drop of black per ounce of plastic for light "clear" smoke and two drops of black per ounce of plastic for a "medium " smoke color . Add silver and black flake to imitate baitfish ,Red to imitate crawfish or another good crawfish imitator is made by adding red,green,black,and copper (or orange)flake to smoke colored baits. This is essentially the Yamamoto grub color #180 Notes : always use an exhaust fan and avoid breathing the fumes from hot plastic when melting /pouring. I normally use a microwave and cover the pyrex cup with saran wrap to contain the fumes . date : 28/11/2002 Color : junebug By : megabass/Ken Plastic : per ounce of plastic Mix : add three drops of "indigo" (black grape) per ounce of plastic . when plastic is hot stir in green glitter until you get the desired effect. date : 28/11/2002 Color : Cotton Candy By : basskat Plastic : 4 ozs. Mix : 1 drop pumpkin, 1 drop red, green, red, black, & blue glitter. Add scent and/or salt just before pouring. Notes : You may have to adjust the colors some depending on your preferences. date : 05/12/2002 Color : Bubblegum By : JGK Plastic : 1/2 cup @ 4 oz. Mix : 5-6 drops Florescent Pink 2 drops white Notes : The florescent pink must be added before you heat the plastic. Stir and put on heat. The plastic will become darker as it becomes heated. When ready, add white and stir. Pour. date : 24/12/2002 Color : Junebug By : B & D Lures 1 Plastic : 1 ounce Mix : 1 ounce of liquid plastic add purple color until you reach a medium to medium heavy shade. Mix thoroughly. just before you pour, add green glitter( enough to your able to see the green shade). Do not put too much glitter. You will lose the strength of your plastic. Insure that you mix the plastic each time you pour. date : 10/03/2003 Color : watermelonseed- non bleeding By : Wonderboy Plastic : 5 gallons Mix : 6.8 grams school bus yellow. 4 grams black. .3 (or 1/4 cup) small black glitter. .3 (or 1/4 cup) large black glitter. Notes : add dye and glitter before cooking. You may need to add cab-o-sil , a few cups, to keep the glitter from falling. Mix WELL ! If you are using a microwave, add salt after it is cooked. date : 17/07/2003 Color : Plum By : alsworms Plastic : 4 ounces Mix : 6 drops Black Grape 5 drops Strawberry I like blue flake mixed in also. date : 17/07/2003 Color : Mustard Seed By : alsworms Plastic : 4 ounces Mix : 6 drops MF Transparent Yellow 4 drops Lure Craft Amber Brown 3 drops White black flake green hi-lite (optional) date : 22/07/2003 Color : Watermelon Candy By : alsworms Plastic : 4 ounces Mix : 4 drops MF Watermelon Brown Lots of small & medium purple flake touch of medium red flake touch of medium black flake touch of medium blue flake touch of large green flake Notes : I have seen many variations of watermelon candy, but this one works best for me. I especially like the brown watermelon. date : 01/08/2003 Color : Watermelon red By : bassin5 Plastic : 2oz Mix : 2 drops LC watermelon 1/8 tsp fine red glitter a hair over 1/8 tsp med black glitter 1/2 tsp salt. Notes : This is the closest i have come to matching zooms watermelon red color. Works great in just about any situation. Good luck.