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redg8r

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Everything posted by redg8r

  1. Thanks for the interest in the color cookbook fellas, however the colors listed on redg8r.com will be removed soon. Ive split this topic & put the previous posts here with recipes in a new thread: http://tackleunderground.com/board/viewtopic.php?p=3819#3819 You can add any new recipes in the new thread. I'll get the recipes from redg8r.com moved over to the new thread, so we wont lose any recipes. Thanks,
  2. Good idea Del, I split this topic from its original post: http://tackleunderground.com/board/viewtopic.php?p=2595#2595 Everyone feel free to add in any recipes that you wanna share, if you post a recipe, be sure to add in the amount of plastic, colors, glitters, etc.
  3. Guys, Chirmy sent me a pic over to post & i just wanted to say, I think you folks are an awesome bunch to help a fellow maker out in a crunch. Ive known Tim (chirm) for some time & know he's there for ya if the shoe was on the other foot. You guys are the best, wish him luck in the upcoming competition, but with baits like I see here from FatRatz, Coley & Legendary Lures.....luck might not be needed Thanks
  4. lol, I thought it was obvious...didnt you see all the jagged lines? my minnows look like theyve been swimmin in black cofee
  5. The eyes you see on my pours are painted on. But I do use WTP eyes, both vinyl and holographic foil eyes & Ditto on the Pro's Soft Bait Glue, it is an excellent glue for soft plastics, I was skeptical, but it does work well.
  6. for what your wanting to do, Id recommend molding in plaster or water putty. Both have a consistency thick enough to let you lay it on top of your first pour, push it in halfway, then let it cure. after the first half is dry, you can apply a sealer/release to pur your second half. dont forget your sprue (pour) hole, & keys, keys allow you to align the 2 halves. venting may be necessary if you have small passages like twister tails appendages, etc. One vent is always good to keep from clogging up the sprue hole Kidlizard seems to have the most experience with plaster so maybe he can jump back in & lend some sealer, mixing, etc. tips.
  7. nope, I just saw what it was & figured itd be easy to whip one together. I did a lil more looking through the site & saw they make em for 5 gal buckets, up to 100 gal vats :!: there is a customer rep listing in there, but I havnt checked it out, if anyone does, please reply with your findings....heck if the price is right, no need to go searching for a blower blade
  8. thought this might help, I spoke to a guy who swears by this "squirrel" type blade for mixing big batches of resin/silicone http://www.squirrelmixer.com/uses.html if you could find an old blower motor blade, it might work.
  9. Simply genious, Necessity is the mother of all invention, and it is necessary unless you want the last pours from your container to be bulletproof I was transferring mine to a 4 walled, 1 gallon juice bottle, & I'd turn it onto a new side everyday to prevent settling, but it didnt help much, this mixer is a great idea.
  10. Yup, one part molds are great to start with, you shouldnt have any problems as long as you have a good master to work with & a correct mix ratio. RTV will pick up every detail, so just make note of that, Also keep accurate measurements on the a-b mix ratio, hopefully you have 1:1, but if not, a set of scales or good measuring cups spoons definately help. I use 3 different kinds, a 1:1, a 10:1 & then an 20:1 i use for casting lead. you'll need to anchor the master in the container somehow, like Bruce said, that will depend on the material its made from, as long as its not porous, you wont need a mold release/sealer, the glossier the better. always pour in the lowest spot & let the silicone slowly rise up around the master. Sometimes when I do a intricate mold, I"ll use a disposable brush & lay on a thin coat, then pour. good luck Nate
  11. I like that name.........we should call it that Hey Nate, What kinda molds you wantin to make? 1-part (w/ flat bellies) or 2 part?
  12. LoL, Some guys I know would sell thier mother for an opportunity to compete ...besides, the baits he lost arent likely available in stores, you gotta know someone in here I'm in Chirm, Heck, as generous as you've been to me with your handpours, I'm gonna finally send you some of mine Post up your address if you want, I think Ive got it though. Sorry bout your unfortunate incident, if it'd happened to me I'd probably tied the anchor to my legs & took a dive with em.
  13. you mean rigid plastic or soft plastics? I was talkin to a fella who makes those grubs with maribou plumes coming out the rear, (sorry dont know what there called) but he told me the company went thru the trouble of actually molding the feathers in with the pour, now they just glue em in after the fact
  14. Since you had to cut the mold take a few rubber bands & wrap lightly around the mold & fill the cavity with water. Use the water as a rough estimate of how much plastic you'll need. melt extra, you can probably remelt it a few times. You can do that, I dont because its more time consuming & like I said earlier, its hard to manipulate because its so thick. Its just easier to dip it in. I'm not sure why all the silicone didnt cure, it could be many things, not enough water, not mixed well enough, or maybe just too darn much silicone I'm learning along with everyone else, I appreciate you posting your results. Thanks!
  15. Heres what Id do, take off the cup & remove the excess (uncured) silicone from whats already cured. (For pouring) you might have to use something to stand it upright, since the bottom didnt cure fully. is the silicone cured around the surface of the tail? if so about how thick is the cured silicone? you only really need about an inch to support the shape, maybe less. if its not cured around the tail, remove the wet silicone from the tail leaving about a quarter inch of wet silicone around it (the tail), the silicone will cure without water at a thicness of 1/4" or less..........after it cures, you can add more silicone (incrementally) until you get an inch of silicone around the tail. can you submit pics? that would help a bunch, if the tail tapers enough, you might be able to pull the tail out, without cutting the mold.
  16. Nope the air will remain where they are, you gotta stir slowly & deliberately. Yup, you can patch any voids in the mold with more silicone. Earthworm77 For what your wantin to do, your own idea is the way to go. This stuff is great for quick molds & prototyping, but if you want good silicone molds, RTV is tops. The regular silicone is really thick & hard to manipulate. I wish there was a way to get the tube silicone to a "putty" like consistency that you could handle with your hands, that would be great.
  17. someone here mentioned speaking with him, I think it was some sort of hardbait.
  18. No no, thats a very valid topic, & a good warning to anyone who dont realise it, I just wanted to add that it could happen anywhere, on the water, in the shop, store. it does happen. As to shrinking pics, do a google search for IrfanView. its a very small free program that does a boatload of graphic stuff, resizing is one of em. a search Tucows.com should get it quick, its a free download. Back on subject, I see one of our members displayed on ICAST, Conquistador's Wired Worms.
  19. Oh, Maybe silicone would be better, since the tail is rigid. If you wanna save the original bait (arent you still gonna cut the tail off?) Heres an idea: 1 Use a paper or plastic disposable cup. 2 add enough 100% silicone in it to submerge the tail. 3 add a few drops of water, mix well (avoid air bubbles) 4 use a spatula or putty knife to skim the top smooth. 5 add a lil soapy water to your tail & slowly dip it in the silicone 6 let it dry an hour or 2. 7 Take a razor blade & cut down one side of the cured silicone (remove or cut away the cup first if possible) Dont cut all the way to the bottom, stop every once in awhile & try to remove the bait, if it wont come, cut a lil more. 8 once its out, pour your plastic into the top. As to attaching it to the bait, I'm lost there bud, youll get help here, im sure. Pic attached below
  20. They ran out, but I did find more somewhere else, just need to get them. these ones have an 1/8 inch threaded shaft, makes attaching a wheel ALOT easier. gotta love surplus stores they have everything, too bad the stock is limited
  21. Hey Chirm, glad your back! The reason the pic wouldnt upload in here is cause its HUGE I saw one in Cabelas..... The Homer Simpson plug That can happen, absolutely, but in defense of the site, without proper legal protection of any product, you run the risk of being ripped off, whether it be a picture of a bait here, or by giving it to a friend, or selling it to a customer..... You mentioned previously that you had a buddy re-mold one of your lizards without your permission, is he still alive I do think its possible for 2 people to come up with the same great idea, without witnessing each others work. I've had a few secret projects thwarted by seeing "my" idea already in the stores One helpful thing comes from posting to these sites, is that they're "time stamped" meaning if your idea does get taken, you do have public record that you put it out first, but thats about it..... I agree if anyone has a product that needs to stay under wraps, by all means, dont post it up. I dont doubt that a few BIG tackle co. product engineers look to these sites for "inspiration". I know your not complaining about the site, just sayin it & thats fine & always welcomed, especially from the Chirmster
  22. Looks like a work of art.... Form and function Very Nice........
  23. For you particular need & time limitations, Id recommend you use the original soft plastic tail & mold it in plaster. since you need it quick & the look isnt of importance, id give that a go, its easier, quicker & you wont need a rigid (clay, etc) prototype made up. take your tail & affix it in a container of some sort, make sure the forked tail is flat in the container & pour in enough plaster to cover it up, + at least another 1/4 inch more. Make sure you pour slowly & in the lowest part of the container. let the plaster "seek" it way around the tail. After pouring, gently tap the container on a flat level surface to bring up any air bubbles, & let dry. take the advise on the microwave & ventilation, pour, attach, fish & enjoy. Try the silicone tutorial when you have the time to devote to it, its pretty thick stuff & takes a lil practice. Good luck on your trip.
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