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out2llunge

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Everything posted by out2llunge

  1. You're absolutely right on about the cedar. I just had a C.T. scan yesterday because of all the trouble I get into using cedar. I can almost predict when I'm going to get sick by how much cedar dust I've exposed myself to. Take it from me, WEAR THE MASK!...3 months of anitbiotics this year can't be wrong.
  2. Try using a pair of calipers, the kind you use for turning on a lathe. This will give you your centerpoints.
  3. out2llunge

    My Logo

    I'd buy baits from her anyday! Looks good!
  4. Any shots of the original for comparison ie. same bait, but in a photo? Or do we know the model of that HR? I would imagine those are all pieces of lead and if so, that is one heck of a lot of lead.
  5. out2llunge

    Routers

    Like Chip said routers need to be respected. The same goes for all of the tools we use. I use a router a lot in the production of my baits. They do an amazing job, but you need to know what you are doing. Jed, Unless I am mistaken, your friend might have meant a "round over" bit vs. "roll over", but maybe it has more than one name. If you have more questions just ask.
  6. Nice looking baits Robert! You're sure you just started right???? I like the jointed booberry.
  7. i've got my bib, when does the all you can eat special start?
  8. Try to use different locations for the hook hanger and the weight. Use stainless steel screw eyes instead of brass or even consider using through wire.
  9. Buy yourself a good set of split ring pliers they're worth their weight in gold! I got mine from http:www.luremaking.com , but there are cheaper ones which are just as good.
  10. Either way works although the screw eyea are easier. You can also use a flat plate that is pinned in each half of the joint.
  11. I just drill a series of holes along the belly and than using a chisel, create one long continuous hole. It seems to work pretty well. I fill in the entire cavity with molten lead.
  12. Congrats and you're right your life won't change a bit. We had our first 19 months ago and my life hasn't changed at all Best wishes for everyones health and safety!!!
  13. Hey Jed, How big (length) is that lure?
  14. Absolutely beautiful! The big time manufacturers better look out...
  15. Make sure the poplar is well sealed. I had some homemade lyman lures (poplar) split on me because they weren't sealed well enough. Caught many fish though.
  16. Never got a chance tor ead the whole site, but what I did see was very well done - thorough and easy to understand.
  17. Make them in 4" and they'll sell to Ontario salmon boys.
  18. out2llunge

    lexan

    I use 1/4" lexan and .092 or .094" screw eyes. I run a 4-40 die over the screw eye to change it into an eye bolt and then you can use a 4-40 nut to attach the eye to the lip.
  19. If you haven't used maple or ash before, a word of advice. Be very careful drilling your pilot holes so you don't break a bit....and be even more careful when using screw eyes (if that's what you're doing) as they will snap dfrom the torque. I use: 1/16th inch drill bit and .092" Stainless screw eyes and I still cringe when I install them.
  20. Definite difference between the hardwoods and softwoods. Maple will be tighter and ash even more so.
  21. How big are the baits going to be? I've been using maple recently and will be testing one in the pool today. You could also try cherry, oak , ash, basswood and even some softwoods though they will require a lot of lead.
  22. http://www.luremaking.com sells unpainted crank bodies. Prices in CDN $.
  23. Your lip design will also affect the action. SOmetimes some lures I've made will NOT work with the lip I want to use. So I changed the lip and bingo the lure worked. Try a rounder shaped lip and see if that helps.
  24. Thanks guys....I'll try the info and let you know.
  25. Greetings! I usually hang out in the hard baits forum, but thought I would visit and pose a problem I have. I tried pouring some lead into a "real" weight mould and couldn't get it to work right. Here's what I did... 1. Heated the lead until thoroughly melted in a steel ladle. 2. Immediately poured the lead into the mould 3. Tried various pour rates and always.... had the lead harden on the "input funnel/spout?" before it actually filled the mould. What am I doing wrong? I tried a few times including pre-heating the mould slightly and same thing happened. Thanks!
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