count draculure

Barry, I've never read that book, but I believe what you may have read referred to soaking the body in boiled linseed oil. Many builders of salt water lures use this method. Linseed oil can be purchased in either raw or boiled form. Boiled is prefered because it dries faster than raw. However even using boiled linseed oil, the body must be left to dry a week or more before painting. No matter what, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO BOIL LINSEED OIL YOURSELF! The stuff is extremely flammable. In fact, any rags used with it should be stored in a can of water before disposal to prevent spontaneous combustion. Hope this helps da Count

Sorry about that Dan, Apparently you can't copy and paste from the browser window.

This was posted by Ledhed a week or so ago: "Jerry said that Shawn is taking a break to attend to some personal business."

Hey Vodkaman, Check this one out. Circa 1928. http://www.antiquehelper.com/item.php?itemID=11322

Sorry LMM, I guess this threw me: "Subscriptions to the all new Lure Makers Dream Factory Guide will be available January 1, 2007 for only 36.50 a year (Ten cents a day)" Subscriptions to the all new Lure Makers Dream Factory Guide will be available January 1, 2007 for only $36.50 per year (Ten Cents per day). Subscriptions to the all new Lure Makers Dream Factory Guide will be available January 1, 2007 for only $36.50 per year (Ten Cents per day).

Hey LMM, Is this magazine and all "upcoming issues" free of charge? If not, you are in violation of site rules. Advertising your wares without paying is not fair to the merchants on this site who do pay. da Count

Blackjack is right. Bass boats are finished with an epoxy gel coat. It is more similar to Devcon (epoxy) or Envirotex (reactive polymer) than the polyurethane stuff you buy at Wallyworld. I have experimented with many different paints and clear coats. Polyurethane could be an ok finish as long as the lure doesn?t see any severe use such as rocks or musky teeth. There are two-part urethane finishes also (Imron); but even they don?t compare in hardness or abrasion resistance to a catalyzed epoxy finish. The only baked on polyurethane I?ve ever heard of is a powder coat finish. If the poly works for you, that?s great! I?ve even used it myself as a barrier coat between the color coat and the epoxy topcoat. But for sheer toughness it?s not at all comparible to epoxy. Wantsome, Flexcoat is a good topcoat, or if you are interested in a dippable finish, PM Swede here on TU and talk to him about the propianate finish he uses. (it?s like the finish Rapala uses on their lures) Da Count

Hi Darkman, Try this one: http://www.lurebuilding.nl/indexeng.html Da Count

Tom, I've had no problems with Gorilla glue. The only reason I switched is that the Titebond 3 is less messy and somewhat cheaper (about 10 buck a quart at Menards) Also, if you are using epoxy, be sure and read the packaging. Most quick setting epoxies are not waterproof. The slower setting stuff like Decon 2 ton is. Waterproof means that water won't penetrate it..... Water Resistant means it will let water through, it just doesn't want to da Count (I love the fangs in this emoticon!)

Hi Tom, I used to use Gorilla glue for all my two piece bodies, but lately I have been using Titebond 3 wood glue. It is 100% waterproof and the nice thing about it is that it cleans up easily (water clean up unti it's dry, just like regular wood glue) The only time I'd use epoxy to join the halves is if there was a gap to be filled. Hope this helps, da Count

Hi Dragline, I have a Jet midi with a Vega duplicator on it. I always run the lathe at it's highest speed. (3950 rpm) The only time you may consider a slower speed would be if you were turning large diameter pieces or very long slender pieces (i.e. 8" long x ?") where spindle whip may occur. Hope this helps. If you have any questions, shoot me a PM, I'll help ya any way I can. da Count

Hi Corey, Check with McMaster-Carr. Type titanium wire in the product search. They are a great resource for things like that. I get my SS wire from them. Their web addy is: www.mcmaster.com Hope this helps. Count Draculure

Somebody has to defend the border, Richoc

Hi Woodsac, You will want turning tools (also called lathe chisels). I would suggest a roughing gouge, a parting tool and a skew chisel at a minimum. If you will be cutting any small coves; a small spindle gouge would be handy. Buy the best ones you can afford. Cheap lathe tools lose their edge quickly and require frequent re-sharpening. Hope this helps. If I can be of further help to you, shoot me a PM. Count Draculure

After reading Coley's Redneck poem, I thought I'd post something from "up nort" Hope you enjoy it. Ten Commandments: Wisconsin Style 1. Der's only one God, ya know. 2. Don't make that fish on your mantle an idol. 3. Cussing ain't Wisconsin nice. 4. Go to church even when you're up nort. 5. Honor your folks. 6. Don't kill. Catch and release. 7. There is only one Lena for every Ole. No cheatin'. 8. If it ain't your lutefisk, don't take it. 9. Don't be braggin' about how much snow ya shoveled. 10. Keep your mind off your neighbor's hotdish. Count Draculure

Hi Coley, If the hole is 1/8" or larger, the blank can be drilled on a lathe or with a jig on a drill press and then turned. I know alot of the saltwater lure makers do it that way. But from what I understand, they still have a fair amount of rejects. One of the manufacturers that I turn bodies for requires a 1/16" through hole; so I make the body in two pieces. I made a simple router table with a V-bit. I route a groove about 1/32" deep in the middle of the blocks. (it could also be done on a table saw with a thin blade) If the body requires a hook hole for a swivel, I drill it now into the groove on one of the halves. This insures that the hook hole will meet the through hole. Then I lay piece of stainless wire in the groove and glue the halves together with urethane glue. The wire serves two purposes. It aligns the halves and it also keeps the glue from sealing the hole back up. Then I clamp it together with spring clamps or bar clamps.After glue has set for awhile, I pull the wires out. I try to pull them before the glue completely sets; otherwise it can sometimes be difficult to get the wire back out. (ask me how I know )The blank is ready to turn. After turning, I run a 6" 1/16" dia. aircraft extension drill through the hole to clean it up. I know this may sound like more work, but it does offer some advantages. It allows smaller holes, your centers are already marked, thinner (cheaper) stock can be used, and you can also glue up very long blanks and then cut them to whatever lengths you may need at the time. Once you get the hang of it, it doesn't take that much time and very rarely do you get a reject. If anyone has any questions, feel free to PM me. I'll help any way I can. Count Draculure

Hi John, Instead of using rivets on each end of the rotating part; I epoxy a small aluminum or brass tube the full length of the hole. Thay way you don't have to worry about water getting into the hole. If I was going to use rivets only, I would use a very thin sealer like Minwax Wood Hardener or maybe even lacquer sanding sealer and dip the part in it. At least there would be some protection in the hole. Come to think of it, this might be an ideal spot to use that lacquer thinner/plastic cup sealer that I read about on TU awhile back. I've experimented with it a bit, and found that some finishes don't adhere to it real well, but I think it would do a dandy job of sealing a through hole. Hope this helps Count Draculure

Hi Iceman 3M used to make a reflective paint called Codit, but I can't find a listing for it any more. The stuff they use on roads is done by first laying down a colored paint and then putting very fine glass beads in the wet paint. You may be able to get some from your local highway department (just be prepared for some strange looks when you explain what you want to use it for; lol). There are a few places where you can buy the glass beads online. The material used on highway signs is a vinyl sheeting made by 3M called Scotchlite. It is quite thick, and doesn't conform to odd shapes very well. It would be o.k. for a flat sided lure I guess; although it would leave a very noticeable edge. I use Scotchlite for signs quite often, but never thought of using it on a lure. Now I'm going to have to try it on the musky glider that I made today... If I can be of any help, pm me. Count Draculure

Hi Westy, You might be able to cut lips from an old CD. I haven't had a chance to try it myself yet; but they are about 1/16" thick and hard to break. Might be worth a try...... the Count

Hi Kellure, Make sure the head and tip are tight. (be careful with the tip though; they are pretty fragile) If air can leak by either of these, it backflow into the bottle. Also if there are any gaskets or o-rings on them, make sure they are not torn or cracked. Hope this helps. Count Draculure

Hi B & D Go to an auto body paint and supply store. You can get paper as fine as 2000 grit there. The Count

Thanks for the kind words Red. Yep, I'm still around. It was a difficult winter (health problems); but I'm back up and kickin'. It might have something to do with fishing season opening.... Take care. Count Draculure

Hi Red, I don't read the soft plastic forum very often, so I was a bit surprised to see my name come up. I can't really help with your melting problem, but thought I should let you know that the adhesive backed holographic material is a polyester product. There may be a different poly that would work though. Have you tried any of the flakes made for automotive custom painting? They offer some pretty intense stuff. Speaking of holographics... I've been experimenting lately with making holograhic epoxy eyes and I've cut some holo scales. Cutting the stuff into a pattern helps it conform to round lures. Anyway, wish I could be of more help. If I come across something different, I 'll send it down . Have a good one! Count Draculure