Hoosierdaddy

Wow... I don't post here often anymore...at least not as often as I used to, so maybe my vote doesn't count for much. It just seems to me that when someone posts here particularily looking for someone to do some work for him that we should probably be more respectful and keep the sarcasm to a minimum. A few of you acted like trekkies at a convention argueing over episode names. I never knew there we "lure geeks" but I guess there are. Just My opinion..... go ahead let the rocks fly I got my devcon coated helmet on.

Actually now that you mentioned it that pic kind contourts the lip design. I didn't really think I was doing anything too original. Just trying to make my own...out of balsa.....that casts well.....and works... Here is a pic that shows the lip pattern a little better. http://s75.photobucket.com/albums/i303/Hdiddy/?action=view&current=1stShallowKillerBeanTopView.jpg

Check it out.. My first homemade shallow diver....I'll be building a box of twenty or so now that I know how this one swims....WOW she wiggles good... Hey VonBargen.... lets go test her out on a pond! http://s75.photobucket.com/albums/i303/Hdiddy/?action=view&current=1stShallowDiverKillerBean.jpg Next up a deep diving crank with a circuit board lip for a Bass pro on the Missouri side.

I just e-mailed you. Sorry I didn't see your PM at first Vodkaman.. Good thing you drew my attention to it.

Thats kinda what I was thinking too Bob. I really enjoy using them and they are in more demand than I want from the locals who have seen them in action. I guess I was just looking for a way to build any even better mousetrap. They have replaced every Smithwick rogue in my box which is what I used to rely on before I began making my own. Mine actually cast better than Smithwicks anyway. Mostly because they are heavier but even on a windless day.. Rogues are a nightmare Thanks for the help fellas

YOU MADE THE LIP HINGED!!!! HOLLY CRAPPOLA!!!... How did you accomplish that feat?

I make a lure similar to a Smithwick Rogue... or a Rapala original floating minnow.. My product is a little beefier than these examples. I designed my lures to give me alot of tail waggle as I want to troll them and I want them to have alot of presesnce or thump in the water. For this the work nicely and as hard as I have tried I cannot find another brand name designed in anyones million dollar corporate lab that outperforms them. Here is the problem... when casted they cartwheel. This has been identified by Skeeter to be one of the three no-nos o lure design. I dont cast them much but occassionally I due like to pitch them toward the rocks. How can I eliminate the cartwheeling to make this lure a little better or more versitile? Here is a picture of how the belly is weighted as I am quite sure I will need to shift the center of gravity in some way. The weighting is about half way down this page if you scroll downward. http://home.mchsi.com/~djaroscak/woodblank.html

All excellent ideas.. Thanks folks.

Hey guys, I have a few sheets of lexan that the protective film fell off of. I always marked out my lip patterns for cutting on the protective film but it will not stay in place. Anyone got a solution for this... What type of glue could I use that will wash off easily?

Heres a link to my tutorial where I am cutting my lip slots... There is a pic of me squaring the table like previousely described. http://home.mchsi.com/~djaroscak/woodblank.html

Awesome.. I had no idea they made em that big. I went ahead and found em on the Cabelas website in 20 packs.. A litttle pricey but if you saw what I have been going through to make my own.. they are worth it. http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0037399318968a&type=product&cmCat=search&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&QueryText=Glass+Rattles&N=4887&Ntk=Products&Ntx=mode+matchall&Nty=1&Ntt=Glass+Rattles&noImage=0

I am wooden crankbait builder who is very interested in attempting to build plastic cranks as well. I remember quite some time ago a tutorial on plastic crank mold building being available but I cant seem to find it anywhere.I have very limited experience in this area but am very curious about it. Thank you in advance. David Jaroscak djaroscak@yahoo.com AKA Hossierdaddy

Is there a tutorial somewhere as to how to do this? Those baits are awesome. Are the hollow/two piece?

Does anyone know the name of the vendor that carries the split rings that will pull off to release the hook when snagged in order to save the bait? I remember they were rated as to what test line you use but I cant seem to find them anywhere... Please provide a lweb link if possible.

This is how I do it... I believe it is step #36... click the link below and scroll downward. http://home.mchsi.com/~djaroscak/primepaint.html

I am looking for spray on topcoat that will give me some abrasion resistance. I used to brush on Devcon for this but when you are making batches of 200 or more lead heads it gets way too cumbersome. can anyone help?

To be honest I have had that photo for about two years and I can't find it's source. In Kansas resevoirs where I fish the shad is the #1 foliage...so it follows suit that shad imitations are the best lures. Here are few different ones: http://www.catchphotorelease.com/shad3.htm http://www.river-striped-bass.com/threadfinshad.html This one is a good one if you add glitter as it's colors are darker and details very vivid: http://www.river-striped-bass.com/threadfinshad.html Finally a couple of great pics of a threadfin shad http://www.seeinstripes.com/threadfin.htm http://www.texomaguideservice.com/fishid/threadfin.html

Here is a shad picture I have used to model a few paint jobs. I am sure it can be used for your next phot finish lure

Hey there .. this is Hoosierdaddy... I am the one who wrote that tutorial. Thanks for posting up the link by the way... Made me feel good. Anyway, if you have an Ace Hardware near you they have the glue that I use. Also .. spread a very thin film on top of the paper that you plan to punch. You do not want to create your entire dome for your eye from this. When you spread Devcon 2 ton on top of it it finishes the dome look and also makes seems to have a chemical reaction with the glue stick dome to turn it even clearer.. The package that the glue sticks are in is pictures on my tutorial... http://home.mchsi.com/~djaroscak/makeeyes.html If you can't get them where you are then send me an address via e-mail and I will send you a package at cost plus actual shipping... Anyway, the process takes practice but once you get it down you will have amazing results.. and dirt cheap

I use Devcon thinned with rubbing alcohol as my primer for my balsa/basswood lures. It doubles the amount of time that the epoxy takes to get to the point that it is hard to spread. I can prime ten lures at a time doing this. It doesn't seem to effect its final curing time though. Of course, thinned epoxy is going to be much thiinner. I dont think I would use it as a topcoat or to glue in hardware as I really want a thicker tougher coat for that.

My minnows are about 4.5" long . The Jann's box would run even more than the Stamina one and the Hagans would be too big..

I am looking to purchase plastic crankbait boxes to sell my lures in. I looked at Stamina and although they have the exact box I need, 44 cents apiece before shipping is too rich for my blood. Anyone else have a more cost efficient source?

no doubt there.. as a teacher I will tell you that as soon as you stop learning you are dead. A wonderful looking lure. I am gonna start saving some of the ones I find washed up and rusted from now on.

Just wanted to repeat the thank you for all of the kind words from many of you. I have a friend that is a web developer for the Topeka newspaper who is examining the html code for me so it should be getting quicker and better as I go along. The bobber-making tutorial is next. This is the first time I ever created a website. If you folks have never tried it.. you should. You don't need special software.. just a good instructional aid. I used a book called Learning HTML Visually. It step by stepped me through it perfectly.. much better than on of those Dummy books could ever have done. Anyway, I guess the tutorial was just a method of giving something back. I have never asked a quewstion on this board that someone hasn't jumped on answering .. often several people have given their input. At times when I just wanted to pitch the lure making idea out the window.. the people on here kept me going... What a great bunch of people. Thank you

I haven't tried using the hot glue technique on prism tape. It might work. I have tried it on holographic wrapping paper and sequins, both which curled due to the heat of the glue. One thing about using this technique is while you are covering the black dot keep the puddle of glue as shallow as possible by using the tip of the glue gun to spread it out. The thinner the puddle, the clearer the eyes will look. Also don't be discouraged if they aren't 100% clear. Devcon has a weird effect on them as it cures. It may be the heat envolved in the curing processes but it turns them clear as glass... kinda cool