woodsac

Welcome to TU Actually, you are number 2001. But that's good too, right

I haven't tried them, but I'm sure they would work. The only problem I see is that when your coloring sits for any length of time it does two things. One, it separates and needs to be very thoroughly mixed! The other thing it does (where I see a problem) is that the color that is in the tip of the bottle will start to coagulate. Every so often, I come across a bottle that I haven't used in a while. The first thing I do is take the top off and remove any coloring from the lip and neck of the bottle. It's easy to spot. It gums up and gets pretty thick. If any of you guys are having trouble with your plastic coming out, you might wanna look under the cap I just think it would be harder to get inside of that flip cap. And if the coloring does run down the nozzle (which I can guarantee it will) it's gonna be even harder to clean it all off. With the dropper type bottles, you just take a paper towel and wipe it off before you put the cap back on. And I only have to do that every 10th or so use?

They are all dropper "type" bottles. And they are all messy But the M-F bottles are the worst! They don't have the long nozzle at the top. They have a flat top with a screw on lid. So instead of the color running down the nozzle, it runs down the entire side of the bottle. I've even cut open my M-F bottles and dumped them into dropper bottles from LC

Hmmm That part sounds good? If you compare that to 1 cup with no coloring, it should only look slightly tinted. Barely noticeable. But when you start to add glitter and put that smoke up against another color, it is even more noticeable. Try adding a little black flake to that and pour it over another color. You should see a pretty big difference. I hope

:oops: Thanks! If you have any comments about lessons learned while making the mold, share them. One thing I've noticed that isn't in my tutorial, is that I need far less catalyst when I'm pouring resin into a metal container vise a glass container. I only use about 4 drops per oz when I use a metal container. I might up it to 5 in the winter, and put a space heater a couple feet away from where the mold is curing. The metal takes on so much heat that if you're not careful, it will cause the mold to warp and break from the excessive heat

There is no industry standard for hook sizes The size of the hook is based on the gap. You might wanna try #4 Owner Rig N Hooks. I don't use hooks that small. But, I think the Owner's are a little bit shorter in length than the Gammies.

How much black are you adding 1 drop per ounce is plenty for a light smoke. I always heat 4 oz at a time. Sometimes I only use 1 or 2 drops of black in 4 oz. Just depends on how dark I want it. I add all of my color before I heat. That way all the colors get the same amount of time in the heat. The colors never very.

I live in the CA desert and we see 120* every summer I keep my 5 gallon jugs in the garage. But usually not for very long. I transfer the plastic to 1 gallon jugs and store them inside in the shop. I have the advantage of having my shop inside and not in the garage The heat shouldn't be a problem. It's the humidity you have to watch out for! Just make sure that whatever container you decide on, is closed up tight so no moisture gets into it.

Are you talking about the little 1 oz bottles that the M-F and LC coloring comes in? If so, you can buy the bottles from LC. 1 and 2 oz. 1 oz. bottles 1X133A $0.24 2 oz. bottles 1X133B $0.33 I'm sure if you look around on line you can find em cheaper, but you're not gonna break the bank at the price above If these are the ones you're talking about, I have a drawer full of em and they work fine. I also use their gallon jugs to transfer my plastic to from the 5 gallon buckets.

Regardless if it's a 1, 2, 3, or 4 color pour, you just have to have all of the colors hot and ready to pour at the same time. You pour the 1st color as far as you want it to go. Then you pour the 2nd color where you left off. The 2 colors will bond where they made contact when they were hot. The narrower the cavities are on the mold, the harder that particular bait is to pour. Just make sure you keep your plastic hot and it will be a lot easier to get it into those tight places.

I don't use salt Pop :oops: Well I don't put it in the plastic. I add salt to the bottom of each bait by hand. Pretty time consuming. But, I also don't pour sticks. But you got it right. The black should take care of that. Don't be afraid to add a little more purple too.

Not the repair answer you're looking for, but I read an article a while back about small plastic and aluminum boats. Guys were spraying or painting on the same stuff they use to line truck beds with. It doesn't add enough weight to affect the boat, but it gives a nice durable bottom that won't wear out. That might help you from having to repair it again :

For just a good general dark june bug, I use about 20 drops of purple and 3 drops of black in 4 oz of plastic. So you could cut that in half. I used to use black grape but it takes so much and I still had to add black to get rid of the bluish tint. If you want to use black grape, start with about 15 drops.

I think it just depends on the fishing conditions and your confidence. I use 4 and 5" jig trailers. Sometimes even a 7" brush hog as a trailer. I downsize in the winter. But lots of guys like to keep it pretty compact. If you are happy with just a little bit of the trailer sticking out past the skirt strands, then yes, the smaller one would be best for you.

I seldom throw the 3.5", but I think it will be a big benefit as the water gets colder and the fish get a little more tight lipped. It's not just the length, the body is narrower also. I fish bigger baits, so to me the 3.5" is a finesse bait

I've never had that happen with hand pours. I think the main cause of this was due to the oil or preservatives that the manufactures packaged their products with. I have some handpours from when I first started pouring (don't know why I still have em ) inside of regular cheap ziplock bags. No problems at all. But certain scents and oils will eat through plastic bags. Especially those that contain garlic.

I'm actually using both tupperware and ziplock brand disposable containers. They offer several sizes and are always on sale for just a couple bucks at walmart. When I put scent in the container I just squirt some in and rub it around with a piece of plastic. They're nice because I can just stack them on top of each other and still see what's inside each one

I add it to help eliminate any pre-existing chemical or handeling smell that may remain on/in the plastic. You could add some garlic salt to the container. But be carefull, salt absorbs moisture. So maybe spray a tiny bit of pam in there, then add your salt. I've even added garlic salt directly to the plastic when cooking Also, make sure your plastic is cool before you store it. It will cool in whatever shape you leave it in.

I use tupperware type containers to store all of my baits before I package them. I keep styles and colors seperate. This helps keep them from bleeding on each other and helps them lay flat. If they are going to be in there for a long time, like when I pour a new color, I add a little bit of liquid scent to the container before I put the baits in it. Don't store them in direct sunlight though. Some colors will fade and some baits may become dry.

You won't be dipping with the mold, just pouring. Del sells kits with everything you need to pour. If you want to dip, search the archives to get instructions on the supplies you'll need other than plastic, color and glitter.

Welcom to TU Right now the only production mold I know if is here: Del-Mart Most people dip their tubes in worm plastic with metal rods. Do a search on this site. There are very detailed instructions on how to make your own and the materials you will need.

Welcome to TU. Please search the forum. This question has been answered several times. Answers even include links to suppliers.

What about lite wire fiber guards used for jigs? Or silicone skirt material?

Actually, the difference is that a 2 piece mold gives you a completely round bait, like Zoom worms. A 1 piece mold will give you a bait with one flat side, like Robo Worms. I would say about 98% of all handpours are done in 1 piece molds and have a flat side. There is no disadvantage to having a flat side on a worm The main bait that comes out of the 2 piece mold is the soft stick bait (senko).

Welcome to TU Start here for a complete kit: Starter Kits These kits have everything you need to get started. If you decide you like it and want to continue, you buy or make additional molds of the baits you want. Also, look in the 'How-To' section. There are tutorials there on how to make your own molds. Make sure you take some time to search through the archives!!! There is more than enough info to get you started pouring and mold making