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Skeeter...have some citrus baits that I just finished this week. Will shoot some pics this weekend and either gallery them or PM you. Think of it like Plemmons with a weird blue and green back. I shoot mine with chart belly, pearl body, chart back, then the blue scales and back stripe. The blue-green mix I have been using is (c-tex) Flo chart:Flo blue:Flo green and kind of blend it with some tinting white, pearl, and some chameleon blue and green. Finished the last ones with a multi crystal flake. Very similar to the Thundershad citrus or Brian's Bees cit plemmons.

Skeeter...I have not tried to shoot one in "classic" but have looked at it. Has to be some kind of a blended green, probably with some gray in it to "dull" the color. Almost an "ayu" color, like you would see in a jerkbait, or more commonly a much lighter version of the green in silver flitter spook (or Tim's RC color). We don't throw some of those "Carolina" colors around here, but that Horton looks like the old bagleys color rootbeer/gren stripe/chartreuse. Some of those bagley patterns had some wicked stenciling and scaling.

Have tried a lot of things...from throwing them into the boxes loose, to all the various bags. Best 2 I have found: 1) Magnum Tackle Logic wraps, for all sizes plastic, used without bags or rings. Just cram 'em full of baits, aip 'em, and throw 'em in the storage box 2) Plano makes a stowaway box that is a single large cavity...same idea, just jam it full of bags. Can get between 20 and 40 bags or so in each box. With the new latches these are even better.

That must be a Homer Simpson cuz the pitcher just said "DOH!" Just found a pic of what you are after. Looks like a Super Do, but maybe those 2 or so legs up the sides make it better (???). Should be able to find a super do mold, or resin mold a reaper with a fairly wide tail, dremel the cavities to widen the tail, then hand shred. The original and best SD's were hand shredded anyway.

Mojo, Unless you really work on minimizing wasted space (and thus volume) you will be doing well to get 2-3 molds per lb of RTV. By using the above process or the earlier mother mold process, you can trim the RTV mold before making the liquid plastic cast of it to reduce the volume. Basically, once you have the RTV copy, you can cut around the legs, claws, areas in between cavities, etc. Your mold won't be pretty and square edged, but you will still have RTV in the pot and $$$ in your wallet. Have not worked with the LMR. Suppose the effectiveness depends on what you try to make it do. Looking at your post...you could use the LMR for 2 things: 1) make the initial mold from your sculpey original, then use resin to cast a "reverse" mold in the LMR, and follow the above process to duplicate and produce your molds 2) if using a resin mold you already have, use the LMR in place of the soft plastic in the process above. I've been using the RTV for LC...10# kits. Have tried a few others, from non-lure sources with so-so results. Better to pay a bit more and be happy with the end result.

Assume you are talking about a skirt sort of like the head of a chompers or GYCB hula grub. Have thought about this a bit but have not tried it. Here is the idea I came up with, feel free to be our guinea pig: 1) Pour a solid block of plaster or resin (preferred) and let it cure. 2) Using a forstner bit of the appropriate size drill out the area in the mold that will comprise the skirt tails. I think a max depth of about 1/8" would be about right. 3) Mark the center of the skirt. Using a much smaller diameter forstner bit (or possibly a regular bit), center the bit and drill down into your block about 1/2" to 1". 4) If plaster smooth & seal it as you pefer. If resin, hit it with some sandpaper and maybe a little acetone to smooth the cavity. This will let you pour a circle of plastic with a "stem" in the center. That just leaves the cutting/shredding of the tails and the attachment to the bait (or rig separately). Be sure to measure the overall diameter of one of the skirts before drilling your cavities. Most of them are bigger in diam than they look. Hope it helps.

I use quite a bit of stabilizer, esp on colors like smoke, blue, light melon, and in the pearl hi-lite powders. Besides helping the colors stay true, it also lets you run the pour temp up higher which = easier pouring of small cavities and better spout flow (at least when hot pot pouring). Call Dave at LC. He should be able to give you an upper limit on the amount of stabilizer to add.

Sorry for typing that last bit in Pidgin. Guess I either need to air dust the old keyboard or learn to type. Good thing compressed air is fun.

medium for all the fiber heads, LOTS of wire guards for grub heads, spider type jigs.

Ask and you shall... http://www.johnsonbag.com/worm_bags.htm Little more $ but a GOOD bag. Holds scent and oil well, labels adhere well.

Some brown LC or MF brown watermelon will stabilize that LC green P. Heat stabilizer will also help, if you are not using it buy some tomorrow. I used to add LC pumpkin and black to watermelon to try and dupe Zoom w'melon...almost always had a fade issue. Switched to the melon colors from MF with much more happiness and joy

various answers to some of the above Q's: 1) You can make a nice 2 piece mold with RTV but it take a lot of work. I have one for an orginal wiggle wart body, that actually mold in the rattle chambers and all. Bugger all to pour it. Aluminum rocks for the full round molds. 2) Great additional tip on using the liquid mold rubber for the initial step vs soft plastic. That is the kind of thing I was hoping for by posting the info. Took me far too long working on my own to just figure out the steps as listed. Have only had time to make 2 mods from mine so far. Both look great and cast easily. Have not taken the next step of trimming and casting the hard master yet.

Yes it lets your gills, spots, whatever sort of float. Also gives you the chance to make full use of the transparency of the paint and the hi-lite colors.

Here you go: http://www.mcmaster.com/ Type in lexan or polycarbonate in the search box at the left side of the page and away you go. Everything from cheap to $$$$. also have a link to a robot combat site that used to sell it, but has their polycarb page shut down (???).

sorry that should be http://www.lakelandinc.com/ accidentally clicked the code key and saw it just as it posted

might try Lakeland http://www.lakelandinc.com/[/code]

I think those paints may well be the right idea, but what about some of the colors? I'm sure there are more colors available, but hard to imagine someone wanting a "trout green" or "green pumpkin" bike seat.

Shake it a bunch and use way more color than you think you need. That helps with most of the LC colors. Also helps if you heat without color, then color the clear plastic...easier to match previous batches.

I have not tried to duplicate a mold in resin yet but it should work just fine. Only thing that concerns me would be the heat given off when it cures. Should note that the same concept used in the described process will work for any "hard" mold...meaning, while I used it to dupe an aluminum mold, you could also use the process to duplicate a resin/plaster/durham's mold. Just happened to have the aluminum mold handy when I worked on it, and the resin part sort of jumped out after the fact. Would have saved me a ton of wasted work back when I made lots of plaster molds, got a nice proto mold, then had trouble duplicating it. This should eliminate that issue.

these folks have been the best for me: http://www.atriceco.com/

Have you ever shot a bait that was so ugly you wanted to hit it with a hammer to keep it from escaping? Just mixed some back stripes that I thought would be a nice match for a ghost color scheme and fortunately stopped after the first one Cleaned the brushes & am going to the post office to get away for a while.

There is also the BIG skirt tool, believe Hagen's sells it cheapest, then maybe Barlows. Barlows at least has a pic on-line: http://www.barlowstackle.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=6&Product_ID=2299&CATID=65

I like the look of all the browns and greens in the Tamiya paints. Are they transparent at all, or just opaque? Are they compatible with flex coat, devcon, e-tex?

Bob...what size are you looking for? I have a couple thousand or so from Worth that are about the same size as those in a wiggle wart.

Try searching the forums for "hunt", "hunting"...normally used to mean that irregular path that occasionally happens with a bait, generally a balsa with brass thru-wire construction, and more often with shallow square bills. It is kind of the holy grail. If you build 25 baits, maybe (stress maybe) one or two might hunt for center. Lots of posts and threads on this, but do not think there is any one way to make it happen every time you build a bait.