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Have recently been trying to do a better job of keeping records of mix ratios and colors used to make the various colors I paint with. Saves a ton of time when mixing colors to match specific baits. Also important to add notes about best psi for a particular color, which colors need extender/retarder, etc. Anyone interested in doing someting like the soft bait cookbook for hard baits?

might try some worm/tube rattles attached to the interior hardware...could use epoxy or zap-a-gap to hold them to your hook eyes, then pour the resin. nice work on the baits. I tried it a bit, for wiggle warts, mostly a big mess for me.

Don't misunderstand, eyes and color, including the spot (or maybe that is just for me) are crucial. The bait has to look right...would'nt want a black head on a "snowball" bait, for example. Just don't think the "finely" crafted heads that are the current rage can really be seen. There are a few that incorporate prism/holo type finishes that probably add to the presentation. Ones I am critical of are those that have molded in scales, etc. The eyes do catch on grass...not really a problem in my area as our lakes are mostly chunk rock and wood. A bullet or pyramid/triangle is a better choice for lots of grass. The H is a good bait for laydowns, cedars, etc. Very similar to the old hawg caller/manns classic/LC baits head.

Herman...very informative posts. Thanks for joining us!

Honestly...detailed heads count for precisely squat when fishing. You need a head that will not roll on contact with cover, runs upright (which the H belly helps out). I powder paint my H heads in silver, white, chart, and less frequently black (buzzbaits), then add red on the protruding eyes and a shad spot just back of the eye (sim to the old hawg caller and LC baits). Think do-it is right on by not making one. About the only place a realistic head would matter is in clear water. The best way to spinnerbait that kind of water color is to smoke the bait so fast they can't see the head anyway. At least if you cna get the wind to blow.

and it makes the plastic burns hurt less

Wow, this could take a while. For the most part a VL or Milennium will shoot createx pretty well with a #3 needle and tip. PSI and viscosity of the paint are extremely variable. Mostly I shoot with the #3 at 30-40 PSI. I basecoat with a #5 assembly and needle, using pro-flo white (not thinned much) +45PSI. The #1 needle is good for fine detail and blending (erasing) but requires a pretty thin paint. You can make the paint "splatter" with any of the needles by thickening the paint and reducing PSI. If the paint viscocity, needle, and PSI are dialed in properly then runs, and excessively wet paint should not be a problem. For me that is usually a technique problem, caused when I am releasing too much paint at too high of a pressure. Can take care of that by releasing less paint with the trigger and moving the brush over the bait more quickly 9less time for the paint to pile up). With createx you will get clogging of the tip. Short of adding retarder (which I think gums up the brush), your best bet is to frequently remove the build up from the cone with a damp rag/cloth. If it really clogs up, just pull the color cup of and shoot some water or cleaner thru teh brush, then resume. This is the brief version...please email if you need/want more info. Hope it helps.

The smaller H is the best spinnerbait mold I have used. Probably the only one that comes close is the old 1/4, 3/8 & 5/16, 7/16 mold that made 2 bullet and 2 "pyramid" head baits (forget the model # but I own two). The H baits paint well, run well, fish well, and mold easily. Super mold all around.

Jed, Was your minwax well mixed? Warm enough? Have had no problems with it feeling oily. What sort of wood did you try it on? Was there an issue with moisture/resin in the wood perhaps? Do think a day is not long enough, more like three between coats.

I thought a bullnose router was one of those Fish & Wildlife Dept endangered species Have not tried it, think it would turn my balsa flat sides into flying bits of dust. Might be ok on cedar. Why would it be better than a dremel? Or sandpaper?

cool...how does it compare to engine enamel (gloss)?

What colors do you want to paint? For white blades you should be able to use appliance epoxy (spray) on a raw blade, without a clearcoat. For others I would shoot on some createx auto air, then clearcoat with flexcoat, and just hang to dry. Could also powder paint them if they are raw...thus no topcaot needed. Just a few ideas, sure there are others.

The minwax takes several (min 3) coats with sanding in between. Did you do this? Have used a couple of minwax products with very good results (see unfinished flat side pics in earlier post, gallery). I sand lightly after about the third minwax coat, then flexcoat, then shoot createx. It's all about the layers...

Try these...make yourself a sandwich first, I usually spend at least an hour on these sites. http://www.aatriceco.com/index.htm http://www.dixieart.com/Dixie_Art_Supplies_Airbrush_Main_Page.html http://www.airbrush-depot.com Hope it helps. Feel free to email if Q's on createx.

Coley, neat idea...do you get much residue from the glue? assume it is a spray, dry, stick kind of process.

Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2004 10:41 am Post subject: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- lots of posts/threads on this if you search...I prefer flex-coat high build rod finish for a clearcoat. It has a little longer pot life, weighs less than devcon, and is UV stable (devcon is definitely not). Devcon is ok if the lure is fairly dark, or you are not concerned about color changes in the clearcoat. Or if you plan to throw it in a tree and break it off Devcon has a large following because it is cheaper, a bit more readily available, and sets up faster. It is pretty easy to work with as a starter. Lots of people get good results with the devcon, just not sure how well they hold up (mine did not hold up well at all). I do not even use it on jigs/spinnerbaits/blades. There are some other clearcoats, next most popular is probably envirotex lite. I have not used it and will defer to others on its characteristics. Hope it helps.

lots of posts/threads on this if you search...I prefer flex-coat high build rod finish for a clearcoat. It has a little longer pot life, weighs less than devcon, and is UV stable (devcon is definitely not). Devcon is ok if the lure is fairly dark, or you are not concerned about color changes in the clearcoat. Or if you plan to throw it in a tree and break it off Devcon has a large following because it is cheaper, a bit more readily available, and sets up faster. It is pretty easy to work with as a starter. Lots of people get good results with the devcon, just not sure how well they hold up (mine did not hold up well at all). I do not even use it on jigs/spinnerbaits/blades. There are some other clearcoats, next most popular is probably envirotex lite. I have not used it and will defer to others on its characteristics. Hope it helps.

basically...you need some mesh fabric, either from a tackle supply catalog or for a better price a fabric/craft store. It is more or less the same stuff they use in bridal veils, or so my wife tells me (I send her for it). Cut it to a size that is larger than the bait you are painting (about 6x6 for most crankbaits is pretty much ok). Next you need some way to hold it tight to the bait, movement is bad. I weight mine with water gremlin bullshot worm wts, can also use large split shot. Have made some "frame" devices but have better results with the weighted net. Weights need to go all the way around, not just at the corners. Then I just clamp the bait in an old fly tying vise (which allows adjustment of height, angle, etc), drop the net over it, and shoot the paint on. There are a couple of basic scale effects...dark over light, and light over dark. The background color will be the color that shows thru the areas covered by the fabric, scale color will be what is shot thru the holes. hi-lite and chameleon colors work very well over a dark (black, gray,blue) background. As always, thanks to Tim Hughes for the tips on making the "net". Feel free to shoot me some mail if you have Q's.

I have seen some air pockets in the hot plastic inside my pyrex from time to time...esp when running remelt into fresh liquid plastic. Some of these kind of superheat...have actually had one burning in the 'wave. Salt seems to make this worse as well. Sometimes the remelt will sort of float on the liquid and give smoe motion. Have also had my pyrex jump around in the 'wave on occasion. Just a thought. Weirdest thing I have seen plastic do happened with a hot pot full of 502 (and the reason I will never use 502 again). Plastic got too hot, scorched, burned, and started faoming/pouring out over the top of the pot like fireworks snakes. Not cool.

Looks to me like it would be hell to cut the lips. I break and grind off plenty of lexan and injected lips fishing chunk rock and rip rap, just looks too thin for that. I also wondered about the color. Were the old TN/KY baits originally made for fishing over/thru brushpiles and on clay bottom lakes? Maybe some of the SE guys can help out. Seems like they might dive a little quicker, which would be an advantage for that sort of "offshore" cranking. Haven't messed with the stuff because it seems so poorly suited to our Ozark lakes and contact cranking.

Like the big copper bladed bait...awesome early spring, early fall color!

Two dips is usually about right on the tails, around 3-5 for the body. Rotary cutters are the way to go for the tails. On tubes generally: If you don't enjoy it, don't do it, because there are lots of cheap places to buy good tubes. Have made a bunch, but can't really say I like mine any better than BPS, Lucky Strike, Pheonix, etc...

Was it actual pyrex, or pseudo-pyrex? What size cup? Should not be possible with the real stuff...lots of lab experience with it, have done LOTS of stupid things with it. Have to say that would be about a 9.9 on my Weird Sh*t O-Meter. Have had the plastic bubble up and out (moisture, salt, etc). Have also poured with cracked/chipped pyrex, no problems. Glad it wasn't any worse.

Ok, here's one from the visitor's section I guess... I install my lips first, then just mask them off with blue masking tape (see pics in gallery). Some reasons: 1) I use alligator clips on my clearcoat turner and the lips make an easy attachment point. 2) Don't like the idea of jacking up my paint job by installing post paint, to include getting excess epoxy on the clearcoat. 3) I use several layers of clearcoat, don't think I could fit the lip in after. 4) Allows a nice and complete seal of the clearcoat around the lip slot and lip = better protection for my paint AND 5) Best reason yet...It looks like that is how the HT balsa baits are made, at least the ones I have.

Think you will have some real trouble keeping that much plastic hot and mixed...esp tube plastic with salt (presumably). Also some problems spacing the mandrels that close together. it will work, mine are closer, but you do have the issue of keeping little 'strings" of plastic and drips off of the tubes.