dtrs5kprs
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Everything posted by dtrs5kprs
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Ceramic mortar and pestle, med to large size...the only way to go on that. Even then it is still a Roy-L PITA.
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I use forceps, 5 & 1/2" curved tip seems about the best for cranks and rogues. I buy them on ebay, cheapest I have found. Why would anyone need to clip a roach?
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I'd call...think they are still advertising in "Retailer"
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ask around...usually not too hard to get some people to go in on a skirts plus order.
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Just a note...the silicone from Keyser and Hatfield is a different grade (not different quality). Hatfield is thicker, more like the old Lunker Lure rattleback skirts (a good big jig skirt). Keyser seems to have less "life" in my opinion. I buy basic colors from SP, pick up accents form the retailers.
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Stamina, janns, Barlows, Lakeland, Worth, and Hagens all have similar charts in their catalogs...might also be online at some of these (stamina I think).
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Congrats and God bless you all. Lots of way cool things for you to look forward to.
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YES on the pot, at least if you want to pour frequently and in any volume. And like most things, more is better when it comes to hot pots, at least 4 to start. One pot will just frustrate you. I originally thought I could use 1 pot to help pour 2-color chunks along with my pyrex. Complete disaster. Ended up putting the pot on the shelf for a year or so until I broke down and bought several more on the advice of Rob Shaw.
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LC's pumpkin and brown also work ok for cinnamon, esp if you intentionally do a bad job of mixing the color.
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Absolute easiest way is to pour with several pots. Just unplug the one you want to clean and move on. Later it will mostly peel out. Normally you have to scrape or use a wire brush to remove flake from the bottom, esp around and behind the pour spout. Once removed it is not a bad idea to hit it with a wire brush on a drill. While cooling the pot be sure to leave quite abit of plastic in it. If you pour off the hot plastic you will leave a thin layer in the pot. This thin layer is more likely to scorch from the residual heat. Best way to get plastic off of carpet: scissors
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A good deep black takes LOTS of color. Not really any other secret. This is true wheter you are using LC or MF color and plastic, from my experience.
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Tying to count the curves in the tail...is that a "2 circle" tail? Don't see any reason why it should not catch fish, unless the fins cause too much line twist/rollover.
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Don't understimate the flat sides...nothing floats or glides on C-rig or mojo rig like a flat belly handpour. You can make a 2 piec mold out of most of the materials you see folks using here. I would search thru the archives to find the info. I have had best luck on 2pc with plaster, but it is generally somewhat of a mess regardless of the material. Exception might be aluminum, but unless you are Del that is a little difficult.
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Had a friend in the IA Federation who used them quite a bit around grass with good results...he called them "whippy d-cks", a play on the Limberneck name. Not a bad bait.
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Have had no problems with Lee pots and sticks, other than having to reverse the pot on the stand. I use the large pot for this, has a larger spout which prevents the salt "clumping" issue. Think the little pots would be a mess for this, plus they just do not hold enough plastic.
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Some flat sides waiting for detail painting. These are the baits I posted at my photo site & this site this weekend (or Monday?).
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Heat stabilizer will help keep your smokes, purples, ambers, etc from yellowing. Really a good thing to use on the lighter translucent colors. Also seems to keep the plastic heating and puring better in the hot pot (I like to run my plastic pretty warm). I have had decent results using flo colors even after the plastic is hot. Just need to use more. This is mostly with Lurecraft color.
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I think most of us are installing eyes by cutting a groove in the lexan then running wire along the groove, out the lip (a small drilled hole), and into the body. If you look at some older thru wire Bagley baits this may make more sense. There are also a few lips on the market that are made in a similar way. This is really only necessary on deeper baits, most square bills and other shallow baits work fine with an eye in the body.
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...and all I can say is "moo". Seriously, congrats on the great outlet for your baits, glad to see they gave you a nice presentation.
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Should work fine. Remember to VERY securely attach the proto baits to the base of your mold container (pins, glue, tape, etc). That is the key to getting a good cavity and preventing "float up".
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Very nice work.
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Completely and thoroughly kick*ss! A way cool site.
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There are some injection molds for cranks up for sale on ebay...only a cool $10K or so. Actually that might not be that bad of a price. Pretty cool to look at. Item number is: 3661170858 Bait is a bandit, but not the one from bandit lures (200, 300, etc). Would guess the Carolina guys are familiar with it.
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Pics of some spinrites. Made these pretty quickly before my fall Table Rock trip. Mold is the Do-It "Cut Face" tailspin, 3/8oz. Think these are fairly true to the original...did sub a flashabou tail for the buvktail/marabou tail. Definitely brings a smile if you like brown bass.
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Took a few shots of these flat side balsa baits before base coating. At this point they have been sealed with minwax, and flexcoated. Eyes are thru wire brass. Thought some of you might find the belly weight pic useful, as this topic seems to come up frequently. Will post the other pics at my yahoo photo site: http://photos.yahoo.com/dtrs5kprs
