dtrs5kprs

Mineral oil also. Same issue. If it is just a bagging issue you can just toss the warm baits in a pan of salt, then bag. Idea is not to impregnate the baits with salt, just coat them. Sort of acts like a dry lube, no leakage.

Tolerance of prolonged exposure to temps around 350 degrees is my concern. Will be neat to see how the first molds are working in a year. Obviously for the money it might be ok, but would hate to lose a good mold to failure.

As above, clean it well. Have had all sorts of probs caused by bulging o-rings. Also had to touch one up with some sand paper (ended up replacing parts). More than likely it is gunk build up.

Wow. I think I need to print this and spend a week reading it. Tons of good info from all. Thought I had tried about everything with silicone. Makes me re-think the commercial RTV's, but am curious as to how the molds hold up over time. I have RTV molds that are well over 10yrs and have poured many thousands in each cavity. But for the $$$...

Check out the colored foils from Reynolds. Come in regular 8/12x11 size sheets, lots of good colors (chart, red, orange).

Tarantula rubber was good for 2 main things: 1) Mixing with regular flat rubber in 2 color skirts to make the wide color spring out. 2) Short arm spinnerbaits (thus the Tarantula name, from the old Bass Buster spinnerbaits). Still good for both, although flat rubber is obviously gone.

Have used 3M spray adhesive and Reynolds colored foil for years. I usually foil, clearcoat, then paint...gives the colors and details more depth. Try crinkling your foil sometime. Makes a nice broken pattern effect.

Search for them on www.ozarkanglers.com in the Table Rock forum. Stupid good bait when the wind blows, throws better than a pointer. They were next to impossible to get here last spring. Will have to pry on the eyes and see what happens. Want to get a few done before it gets cold.

Anyone painting this bait? Started throwing it last spring, and it was a BEAST in the Ozark lakes. It was also hard to find, so did not shoot either of the two I was able to procure. Now that I have a few put away, I would like to shoot some pet colors. Question is...what to do with the big goofy eyes? Sand them? Celarcoat over and re-paint?

Best bet on LC's is to watch the big retailers (Cabelas esp, at least here in KCK) for clearance on colors. Have picked up a bunch of 78's, 100's, Slenders for money in the $7-$10 range. Sand 'em, paint 'em, and save your time jacking with the knock-offs. Even with factory LC's, Rogues, etc., you will get some baits that simply vary from what you might perceive as perfect flotation. Gives you a good excuse to buy 6 of each color . Good example, although non-suspending, are the Cordell jointed redfins, about 1 of 8 of which will actually wake right. The knock-offs are what they are...good pond baits, small lake baits. Save the real things for the real days.

Lansing is a bit far for weekly meetings, but feel free to PM me if I can help with anything. I've made a few baits, the wrong way and the better way... ...Unless you are one of those "purple" people.

From prior, elderly posts: "It's tough to give you an exact, "always start this way", sort of rule on thinning C-tex. Some of the colors shoot fine right out of the bottle (transparent red and tint black, for examples). Others need lots of attention. As a couple of examples, mixed in 1/4oz color cups: 1) Chartreuse...10-12 drops paint : 2-4 drops water : 2-4 drops retarder 2) Ghost brown craw...12-16 drops paint : 3-4 drops retarder : 6-8 drops plain transparent medium : 6-8 drops extender : 6-8 drops water If you look at these mixes you can get an idea of the PAINT:OTHER STUFF mix ratio. The first mix is my basic chartreuse for sides, bellies, highlights...a nice dry shooting, brightly covering in 2-3 coats chart. The second is a very light, dry shooting, color that tends towards opacity at about 4-5 coats, but will still let light come thru a clear bait. Wouldn't shoot either of these below 35psi, mostly 40-45psi." "Try backing off on the water and run your psi up to at least 30. An example: tonight I am shooting phantom or ghost craws with very thin and extended createx (for the see thru effect) at about 40-45psi. Paint is going on flat and dry, unless I foul up and trigger too much paint flow. I am blow dring between layers of color. For sides, bellies, and blending you want lots of air and very little paint. You can do this with the trigger, lots of air, but release minimal paint. Try shooting on a nice white basecoat...should be able to see the paint leave the gun and hit the bait in a dry, flat finish, a light strip of color with each stroke. Subsequent strokes will build the color to the value you want, can't do it all in a few strokes." Hope it helps. Going back to casual lurking.

Believe I posted a recipe for "ghost" craw warts on here a few years ago using Createx. Requires thin paint, high psi, extender, and I usually add some plain medium to further enhance transparency. When it is right, you will just be spraying dry pigment, not so much paint. Whew...only another three or four years of posts to catch up to. Happens when you add kids to the equation.

Not a specific one. I purchased my first batch thru a gentleman named Gary Yu, who used to frequent The Old Site as well as this one. Last ones I purchased were in 2004 or 2005, from Mr. Yu's brother, as Gary is unfortunately deceased. If I can find his e-mail I will PM you. There were several different companies making a version, and the name had changed along with the change in company contact. The last batch I purchased were not as well made on first appearance, but when painted and fished, they perform more like the older warts (pre-pre Rapala).

Howdy all...ran into Tim Hughes at Table Rock this week and he gave me the heads up on the meet. Spoke to Mrs. Nathan from the parking lot of Everharts in Clinton on my way back from the Rock...said everyone was out on a field trip of sorts. Had to run to beat the race traffic coming out of KS Speedway in KCK, so couldn't stick until you made it back. Hope everyone had a great time and safe travel. Oh yeah...fishing is outstanding at the Rock right now. If you plastics guys are not puring a green pumpkin / blue blue flake laminate (Okeechobee Craw) you are way missing out.

The original wart vs rapala ugly lip wart thing is 100% real. Just go to an Ozark lake...T-Rock, Beaver, LOZ, Bull...tie one of each on, and find out which fishes and catches better around the channel swings, gravel, and chunk rock. I've logged a lot of wart hours and the "new" original is really not even the same as the baits from the last few years pre-rapala. Also terrible approximations of the original colors. Bob is right on regarding the original molds from the Storm family. There are a few different versions of the "original" bait, including a couple of years that were really a booger to tune. If memory serves, that was due to a fire at the plant and a re-tooling of the molds. If you do some internet research, you can find some asian imports that are spot on for the original wart, and fish and paint well. Also some mag warts. Most of the manufacturers will sell to you if you are willing to buy in 1000ct lots.

I've had good results using airbrush restorer (createx) to help clean the gunk off. Just a soak and wipe process. Have tried some fine finishing papers and polishing by hand...usually ends up being a better idea to toss it and start a new needle.